BIOS problem


ICIT2LOL

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Location
Central West NSW Australia
OS
Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
I have an old Ivy Bridge build that I run both Windows 10 Pro and Windows 11Pro on -two separate SSD's that I just swap over the data plugs to whatever OS I need. Now I turned on the machine this morning and it just kept on constantly recycling through the boot process.
I did try pressing the F2 for the BIOS on powering up and no luck getting in.
However, I was able to get the BIOS if I turned off the power and held down the machine's power button to drain the board of all power then try the power on and F2. I found each time that I did this that the SSD in the SATA setup was disabled and changed it to enabled. I also set the boot option to that drive and reset the boot order - I usually have it set to the Windows boot manager option for this machine and saved the new settings.
But this happened again and so I tried the drive for Windows 10 but the same thing is happening.
After that, a power on goes to an Asus message to hit F1 to reset the BIOS - I did all the changes all over again but with the same results and the latest is now all I am getting is the Asus message to hit F1 which is just not doing anything.
I have a sneaky suspicion that the BIOS chip might be failing.
Any thoughts please as I really like this build and cannot afford a new one just yet.
 
Windows Build/Version
Windows 11 pro 23H2(Build 22631.3593)

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Don't have an answer yet about the issue but the mention of 'older' and Win11 prompted me to check your My Computer [thanks for filling that in] shows it's not that old so Win11 is properly supported, at least for the CPU. But the Version number isn't the same as mine, OS Version 23H2 Build 22631.3593.

1717204233665.png
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win11 Pro RTM
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 3400
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 11th Gen. 2.40GHz
    Memory
    12GB
    Hard Drives
    256GB SSD NVMe
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro RTM x64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 5890
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 10th Gen. 2.90GHz
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Onboard, no VGA, using a DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Dell
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD NVMe, 2TB WDC HDD
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender/Microsoft Security
Before you do anything with or about the BIOS, why don't you change the CMOS battery?

If you have the tools and the expertise, , , take out the CMOS battery and test it with a Digital Volt Meter.
It MUST read 3.0 vdc or better or it's bad, and needs to be replaced.

And why are you swapping SATA data cables? Doesn't your motherboard give you a F? key Boot Menu?

I've got three OS's on this very PC, and I always use F12 to get the Boot Menu, if I'm not booting into the Main SSD.

TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Thanks Berton mate the F1 button did work after I left the machine alone for about 10 minutes and got back into the BIOS and did the same changes but the same thing I got the RAM beep and then nothing but recycling again.
Have repeated the above and reset the BIOS yet again and am stuck with the powering off unloading the power from the board and trying again.
Now after a quick net search and on the Asus ROG site, someone had a similar problem with the red boot LED near the BIOS chip staying on after the person powered up and there was another suggestion to clear the BIOS so I am just wondering if it might be the CMOS battery getting a bit flat. Now I could simply remove the battery and leave for say ten minutes and try again. Frankly, I think it would be just as easy to put in a new battery?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Before you do anything with or about the BIOS, why don't you change the CMOS battery?

If you have the tools and the expertise, , , take out the CMOS battery and test it with a Digital Volt Meter.
It MUST read 3.0 vdc or better or it's bad, and needs to be replaced.

And why are you swapping SATA data cables? Doesn't your motherboard give you a F? key Boot Menu?

I've got three OS's on this very PC, and I always use F12 to get the Boot Menu, if I'm not booting into the Main SSD.

TM :cool:
Hiyya Wayne mate I have just posted that I might just try renewing the battery as I have a ton of them. Now I didn't know about changing drives with the F# key boot menu option I will search the Asus site to see what and if it has one.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Well have renewed the battery as the old one was at 0.23v the new being at 3.23v and the red boot menu LED is now out, and have tried changing the BIOS settings again but with no luck.
I am beginning to think that the BIOS chip might be just about cactus and am going to get a new one if they are still available.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Now I didn't know about changing drives with the F# key boot menu option I will search the Asus site to see what and if it has one.




0000000 Boot Menu and BIOS keys.png
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22631.3880 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4702)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?
Ok an update I left the machine idling for some time after trying the BIOS again and it just stopped at the post screen. I returned after another good while and there is the BIOS screen up. I checked the front screen and noticed the date and time were way back to sometime in 2009 so reset that date and time. Checking the SATA setting it read that the drive was enabled now and set the boot order to what I wanted and on restart it booted to the OS. I am not sure if the date and time had anything to do with this problem but I have my machine back.
Thanks to everyone for their input I do really appreciate the advice and am going to follow up on some more of the stuff posted likr the F8 boot menu key from that chart.:D
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
I am not sure if the date and time had anything to do with this problem but I have my machine back.



When the date/time in the BIOS are incorrect... all kinds of problems can occur.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22631.3880 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4702)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?
When the date/time in the BIOS are incorrect... all kinds of problems can occur.
Yes mate I didn't notice it at first and maybe I should have checked it when this problem first started as the machine has been playing up for a while now- having to reset the BIOS every other time I booted the machine - and I am guessing because of that low voltage in the CMOS battery.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Well have renewed the battery as the old one was at 0.23v the new being at 3.23v and the red boot menu LED is now out, and have tried changing the BIOS settings again but with no luck.
I am beginning to think that the BIOS chip might be just about cactus and am going to get a new one if they are still available.
0.23V !!! My previous PC having a Gigabyte board failed to boot if the battery voltage dropped below 3V.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self build
    CPU
    Core i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming Plus WiFi Z790
    Memory
    64 GB Kingston Fury Beast DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 Super Gaming OC 8G
    Sound Card
    Realtek S1200A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Viewsonic VP2770
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000 2TB NVME SSD & SATA HDDs & SSD
    PSU
    EVGA SuperNova G2 850W
    Case
    Nanoxia Deep Silence 1
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Digital Media Pro
    Mouse
    Logitech Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50 Mb / s
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Defender
0.23V !!! My previous PC having a Gigabyte board failed to boot if the battery voltage dropped below 3V.
Yes, Steve mate I could not believe it myself when I checked it out, and I seem to remember renewing the battery not that long ago perhaps around two years or very close. I have read that left for long periods they can discharge rather rapidly and well this particular machine I don't use it a lot except for viewing YouTubes etc only because I have a really nice 32" monitor hooked up to it.
The strange thing is I have an even older Sandy Bridge build with Windows 10 Pro on it and it has a Gigabyte board and I cannot ever having to swap in a new battery quite bizarre eh? :confused:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security
Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM :cool:
The voltage of CR2032 batteries rapidly plummets after a short time when the the battery falls much below 3V so certainly replace any battery at c. 3V.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self build
    CPU
    Core i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming Plus WiFi Z790
    Memory
    64 GB Kingston Fury Beast DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 Super Gaming OC 8G
    Sound Card
    Realtek S1200A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Viewsonic VP2770
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000 2TB NVME SSD & SATA HDDs & SSD
    PSU
    EVGA SuperNova G2 850W
    Case
    Nanoxia Deep Silence 1
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D14
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Digital Media Pro
    Mouse
    Logitech Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50 Mb / s
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Defender
Interesting about the CMOS battery, I have a Dell Inspiron 15 5537 from 2014 and an HP Envy 17" also from 2014 that have never needed that CR-2032 replaced.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win11 Pro RTM
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 3400
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 11th Gen. 2.40GHz
    Memory
    12GB
    Hard Drives
    256GB SSD NVMe
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro RTM x64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 5890
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 10th Gen. 2.90GHz
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Onboard, no VGA, using a DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Dell
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD NVMe, 2TB WDC HDD
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender/Microsoft Security
Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM :cool:
Yes Wayne I agree after reading that article about the way that these 2032 batteries discharge when left in place for example as in our computers. I actually checked for a use-by date on some that I have in my spare's drawer. I have a load of both Energizer and Panasonic brands and neither have a use-by or made-in-date on the packaging whereas some of my stock of 9v batteries do.
Now that I know this and this issue I had - the impression that these batteries lasted for much longer than they actually do I suppose it is worth checking the BIOS for the status of the CMOS battery on a say half or one-yearly basis. I use the HWInfo app to check stuff I might see if that is an option because if the BIOS of the machine doesn't show the battery status it means taking the machine apart as the battery sits right underneath the GPU and such a pain to get at to physically check it with a meter.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (OS Build 22631.3810)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus Vivo notebook X712P
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel CPU graphics
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50Mbs max allowance - occasionally up to 75Mbs
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security

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