Dual screen setup (Home Theater) - automation tips?


Jose Hidalgo

Active member
Local time
8:21 PM
Posts
126
OS
Windows 11
Hi everybody 👋 Here's my dual screen setup, the source being my desktop PC:
  • Screen 1 : 32" monitor (2560x1440, 60 Hz, SDR)
  • Screen 2 : 85" TV (4K, 144 Hz, HDR) - I don't physically have it yet, but I expect to receive it soon

Screen 1 is ON all the time.
Screen 2 will be ON only for Home Theater purposes.

Both screens will be on different rooms, but everything will be physically connected:
  • Video: Screen 1 -> DisplayPort / Screen 2 -> HDMI
  • Audio: Desktop speakers -> analog motherboard output / Home Theater speaker setup -> USB

I'd like to automate things as much as possible, and I wonder if I can achive it through Win 11 or if I need specialized software or automation scripts for this.
Here's what I'd like to do.

As soon as Screen 2 is detected by Win 11:
  1. Screen 1 is disabled by Win 11 (like when using Projector mode - Second screen only) : no video signal, and its contents are displayed only on Screen 2
  2. Since Screen 2 is 4K, everything (desktop icons, taskbar...) needs to be scaled to 150%. That way all my carefully aligned icons should hopefully stay in place. :crossed
  3. Default audio output is automatically toggled from my desktop speakers to my Home Theater speaker setup (which is connected to my PC via USB)
  4. HDR is enabled

Once Screen 2 is turned OFF:
  1. Screen 1 is enabled again, and its contents are properly displayed
  2. Scale goes back to 100%
  3. Default audio output is automatically toggled back to my desktop speakers
  4. HDR is disabled

Is there a way to automate all this, so all I have to do is to physically turn Screen 2 ON or OFF? Surely I'm not the only one seeking to achieve this 😂

All good ideas are welcome. Thank you :-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
Small addition: forget about HDR. HDR should only be enabled for HDR content. The 3 other points remain though.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
I would look at maybe doing a separate media player client for the big screen - something like a Raspberry Pi. The desktop computer would be the server. You can remote the Pi from the desktop computer, or use a local remote control for it.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Homebuilt
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800XT
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero (WiFi)
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Education
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7773
    CPU
    Intel i7-8550U
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce MX150
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 512GB NVMe SSD
    SK Hynix 512GB SATA SSD
    Internet Speed
    Fast!
I would look at maybe doing a separate media player client for the big screen - something like a Raspberry Pi. The desktop computer would be the server. You can remote the Pi from the desktop computer, or use a local remote control for it.
I'm very sorry but that's off-limits. That solution (desktop PC as server) was actually my previous setup, in my previous home. I used it for many years and I didn't like it, for several reasons (some video related, some audio related, some network related) that would be too long to explain here.

In other words, this topic is only about software. All the hardware is already in place and won't be touched. Thank you. :-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
I am assuming that your TV is a smart TV.
Option 1: You can use VLC using wired/wireless to stream your Video/audio content to TV.
Option 2: If you use Google Chrome/Edge. You can cast the content to TV. However, it's only available for certain site such as YouYube with the cast Icon available, else you'd have to buy a Google Chromcast.
Option 3: Get an Amazon Firestick, cost ~$30 then browse for Video/Audio from your PC to play. You will need to set up Network Sharing.
Option 4: This is what I am using: Amazon.com
which you set up as separate display wirelessly. The same way as you intend to setup with HDMI cable. (does not have to be smart TV)
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Linux Mint 21.3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Build Feb.2024
    CPU
    Intel Core i9-14900K @5.8GHZ
    Motherboard
    MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk Max WiFi 7
    Memory
    64GB (2XG Skill F5-6400J3239G32G) @6800
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics (8 GB)
    Sound Card
    Intergrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    2 x Crucial T500 2TB Gen4
    PSU
    750W EVGA-G3
    Case
    Antec NX410
    Cooling
    H2O Thermalright
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Mouse
    Logitech Master 2S
    Internet Speed
    100 Mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    WD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 & 11 Pro & Linux Mint X64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    MSI Z77 MPower (MS-7751)
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3770K CPU @ 4.20 GHz
    Motherboard
    Z77 MPower (MS-7751)
    Memory
    32.0GB Dual-Channel CMY16GX3M2A1600C9
    Graphics card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
    Monitor(s) Displays
    40" Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    1920X1080
    Hard Drives
    WIN10 - 111GB Samsung SSD 840 Series
    WIN11 - 223GB Crucial CT240BX500SSD
    2X931GB Crucial CT1000BX500SSD1
    PSU
    Antec 850W
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    H20
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800 Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 2S
    Internet Speed
    100 Mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Thanks for your reply. Although I don't get it:
  • Why would I want to use a wireless HDMI adapter, when I already have a perfectly valid HDMI 2.1 cable running between my desktop PC and my TV? I thought I made that point clear from the start.
  • Why would I want to stream content to my TV, when my TV is already meant to be physically connected to my PC as a second screen?

Maybe I haven't been clear enough, so don't hesitate to ask. Please consider my TV as a second screen, where my Windows desktop can display perfectly. Also, like I said in my previous post, NO HARDWARE SOLUTIONS PLEASE. SOFTWARE ONLY! Thanks again.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
Thanks for your reply. Although I don't get it:
  • Why would I want to use a wireless HDMI adapter, when I already have a perfectly valid HDMI 2.1 cable running between my desktop PC and my TV? I thought I made that point clear from the start.
  • Why would I want to stream content to my TV, when my TV is already meant to be physically connected to my PC as a second screen?

Maybe I haven't been clear enough, so don't hesitate to ask. Please consider my TV as a second screen, where my Windows desktop can display perfectly. Also, like I said in my previous post, NO HARDWARE SOLUTIONS PLEASE. SOFTWARE ONLY! Thanks again.
Well, I am giving you different options, but if you are happy with HDMI cable laying on the floor connected to your TV then you don;t need anything else.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Linux Mint 21.3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Build Feb.2024
    CPU
    Intel Core i9-14900K @5.8GHZ
    Motherboard
    MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk Max WiFi 7
    Memory
    64GB (2XG Skill F5-6400J3239G32G) @6800
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics (8 GB)
    Sound Card
    Intergrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    2 x Crucial T500 2TB Gen4
    PSU
    750W EVGA-G3
    Case
    Antec NX410
    Cooling
    H2O Thermalright
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Mouse
    Logitech Master 2S
    Internet Speed
    100 Mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    WD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 & 11 Pro & Linux Mint X64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    MSI Z77 MPower (MS-7751)
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3770K CPU @ 4.20 GHz
    Motherboard
    Z77 MPower (MS-7751)
    Memory
    32.0GB Dual-Channel CMY16GX3M2A1600C9
    Graphics card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
    Monitor(s) Displays
    40" Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    1920X1080
    Hard Drives
    WIN10 - 111GB Samsung SSD 840 Series
    WIN11 - 223GB Crucial CT240BX500SSD
    2X931GB Crucial CT1000BX500SSD1
    PSU
    Antec 850W
    Case
    Antec 900
    Cooling
    H20
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800 Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 2S
    Internet Speed
    100 Mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro build 26200.5651 (Dev)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-4790
    Motherboard
    Asus H97 Pro Gamer with add-on TPM1.2 module
    Memory
    Teams DDR3-1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1150
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Flatron E2250
    Screen Resolution
    1920 by 1080 pixels
    Hard Drives
    Crucial NVMe PCIe M2 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2); Samsung SSD Evo 870 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2);
    PSU
    Corsair HX850
    Case
    Gigabyte Solo 210
    Cooling
    Zalman CNPS7X Tower
    Keyboard
    Microsoft AIO Wireless (includes touchpad)
    Mouse
    HP S1000 Plus Wireless
    Internet Speed
    200 Mb fiber optic
    Browser
    Chrome; MS Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
  • Operating System
    MacOS 12 Monterey
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Apple Macbook Air
    CPU
    Intel Core i5
    Memory
    8 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel integrated
    Screen Resolution
    1440 by 900 pixels
    Hard Drives
    128 GB
    Keyboard
    Built-in
    Mouse
    Microsoft Wireless
    Internet Speed
    802.11 ac
    Browser
    Chrome; Safari
    Antivirus
    N/A

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro build 26200.5651 (Dev)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-4790
    Motherboard
    Asus H97 Pro Gamer with add-on TPM1.2 module
    Memory
    Teams DDR3-1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1150
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Flatron E2250
    Screen Resolution
    1920 by 1080 pixels
    Hard Drives
    Crucial NVMe PCIe M2 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2); Samsung SSD Evo 870 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2);
    PSU
    Corsair HX850
    Case
    Gigabyte Solo 210
    Cooling
    Zalman CNPS7X Tower
    Keyboard
    Microsoft AIO Wireless (includes touchpad)
    Mouse
    HP S1000 Plus Wireless
    Internet Speed
    200 Mb fiber optic
    Browser
    Chrome; MS Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
  • Operating System
    MacOS 12 Monterey
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Apple Macbook Air
    CPU
    Intel Core i5
    Memory
    8 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel integrated
    Screen Resolution
    1440 by 900 pixels
    Hard Drives
    128 GB
    Keyboard
    Built-in
    Mouse
    Microsoft Wireless
    Internet Speed
    802.11 ac
    Browser
    Chrome; Safari
    Antivirus
    N/A
Well, I am giving you different options, but if you are happy with HDMI cable laying on the floor connected to your TV then you don;t need anything else.
Why would you assume I have a HDMI cable laying on the floor? I own my house and ALL my cables (video, audio, USB, Ethernet) are already conveniently hidden through cable trunking. This was taken a couple months ago:

20250429_115037.webp

I never requested for help with physical connections. Believe me, I'm more than good. This topic is only about software automation, hence its title. Thank you.

@suatcini54 Thanks, but I didn't ask for a guide on setting multiple monitors. I know how to do that. Again, this topic is about automating software tasks, e.g. automatically switching default audio output. Hopefully somebody finally understands that. Thank you.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
JMO, I would set it up temporary to work for now with the new SmartTV and when you get the funds buy a new monitor equal to the same resolution and same frame rate so there will be no issues and switching while streaming movies. I also use the Display Port connections.. I do find VLC Player to work best with streaming 4k though. Good luck
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-11700K Desktop Processor 8 Cores
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Strix Z590-A Gaming WiFi LGA 1200
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3600MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GTX ROG STRIX 1080 8GB
    Sound Card
    Sound Blaster Z SE
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VG34VQL1B plus a Samsung 60" Smartv
    Screen Resolution
    3440x1440, 165Hz
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 Series - (OS)1TB Pro Gen4 NVMe M.2, 1TB Gen3. x4 NVMe 1.4 - M.2, WD 1TB, WD 500GB, WD 350GB
    PSU
    Silverstone Olympia OP1000W PSW
    Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 SSO2 D-Type Premium CPU Cooler, NF-A15 x 2 PWM Fans
    Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB
    Mouse
    Logitech 310 wireless
    Internet Speed
    1 GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
    Other Info
    Testing Windows 10 Pro on 350GB drive
But I don't want a new monitor. I don't want a 4K monitor. I don't need a 4K monitor. I have the funds, I just don't want it. 1440p is perfect for me.
Am I speaking a foreign language here? Why is nobody getting what I want to achieve in this topic?? Is this some sort of prank??? 😂
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Personal build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7700
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    DDR5 = 32 GB = 2x16 GB (Corsair Dominator - DDR5 RGB - 6000 MT/s)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Not yet
    Sound Card
    No
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips BDM3270QP2
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    M.2 = 2 TB (Samsung 990 Pro)
    SATA = 12 TB (Western Digital Red - WD120EFAX - 5400 rpm)
    PSU
    Corsair RM850e (850W - ATX 3.0)
    Case
    Corsair Crystal 280X TG (White, RGB)
    Cooling
    Intake = 2x120mm fans (Corsair LL120 RGB) / Exhaust = 2x120mm AIO (Aerocool Mirage L240)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K55 RGB
    Mouse
    Vertical mouse from AliExpress, very good for the price and a lifesaver for my wrist :)
    Internet Speed
    Fiber
    Browser
    Firefox, Brave, Tor
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    UPS = 1000VA (Nitram PB1000 LCD), protecting PC + Monitor + Speakers
Quote {As soon as Screen 2 is detected by Win 11:
  1. Screen 1 is disabled by Win 11 (like when using Projector mode - Second screen only) : no video signal, and its contents are displayed only on Screen 2} Unquote
When I read your above statement in your first post, I must have misinterpreted the situation. Therefore, I sent you the internet links in my post #8. I am sorry for causing you inconvenience.

There are marvelous code writers here in this reputable forum. I don't know what you're asking is doable. All I know is the CHOICE command: Press 1 to send stereo audio and video to monitor; Press 2 to send 11.2 channel Dolby Atmos sound and Dolby Vision to Display device in the other room; Press 3 to use both monitor and display device; Press 4 quit.

I hope you get what you are asking.

Good luck
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro build 26200.5651 (Dev)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-4790
    Motherboard
    Asus H97 Pro Gamer with add-on TPM1.2 module
    Memory
    Teams DDR3-1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1150
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Flatron E2250
    Screen Resolution
    1920 by 1080 pixels
    Hard Drives
    Crucial NVMe PCIe M2 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2); Samsung SSD Evo 870 500 GB (Windows 11 v.24H2);
    PSU
    Corsair HX850
    Case
    Gigabyte Solo 210
    Cooling
    Zalman CNPS7X Tower
    Keyboard
    Microsoft AIO Wireless (includes touchpad)
    Mouse
    HP S1000 Plus Wireless
    Internet Speed
    200 Mb fiber optic
    Browser
    Chrome; MS Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
  • Operating System
    MacOS 12 Monterey
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Apple Macbook Air
    CPU
    Intel Core i5
    Memory
    8 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel integrated
    Screen Resolution
    1440 by 900 pixels
    Hard Drives
    128 GB
    Keyboard
    Built-in
    Mouse
    Microsoft Wireless
    Internet Speed
    802.11 ac
    Browser
    Chrome; Safari
    Antivirus
    N/A

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