Solved Problem with Streaming Apps


ellellell1

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Hi there

I have two HG659 routers in my house, acting as a GATEWAY and a REPEATER
Both of which use the same SSID and password, and is set up following the seven forums tutorial:

My ISP uses a coaxial connection (static ip) with a modem to the HG659 GATEWAY. The HG659 REPEATER is connected to the GATEWAY via Ethernet Cable. DNS is 1.1.1.1.

This is currently working really well for almost everything, except I always have problems when using streaming apps while connected to the REPEATER (both on my phone and with Google TV).

Disney Plus sometimes logins correctly, and when I try to play something, the video doesn't play, only the controls are shown. The same happens with TVNZ+. Oddly Netflix and some other streaming apps seem to play just fine.

When only connected to the GATEWAY, Disney Plus and TVNZ+ work just fine. Problems only seem to happen, when using the REPEATER.

I have tried to think of any weird router settings that could cause my REPEATER to be doing this. (Firewall and DHCP are both off)

I do have a SAMBA share for a external hard-drive on the REPEATER and a static ip assigned to the printer on the GATEWAY, but I don't think this would contribute to the streaming problems.

Finally all computer based streaming, i.e. Disney Plus and TVNZ+ from a internet browser is fine while using the REPEATER.

Any suggestions?
 

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glasskuter

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Though quite similar, repeaters, extenders, and access points do handle traffic slightly different..Since you connect the second router to your main router via ethernet cable, the second router should be set up as an access point, not a repeater.

There is a downside to setting a device in repeater vs access point mode - it essentially halves your wireless bandwidth, as it has to use it to communicate with both your main AP and the clients. Although range extenders/repeaters reach areas beyond the range of the central router, they also bounce back all the router's traffic, creating congestion and slowing the network.

I have the same situation as you do, except ,my main router is a TP Link connected via ethernet to an old Netgear router configured as an access point. It took me a long time to figure out how to set it up.

Access point (AP) mode enables your second router to function as a gateway for wireless devices to connect to. In AP mode, your second router extends your existing WiFi instead of creating a new WiFi network.

This article details all the steps. How to Connect One Router to Another to Expand a Network It is written under the assumption that both routers are assigned different ip addresses. Since your 2 routers are identical, you will have to get #1 out of the picture. Otherwise when you access the administrative settings you will be changing the wrong router. When you get to step 3 you will have to disconnect the cable between the 2 routers in order to assign a DIFFERENT ip address to router #2. Connect an ethernet cable from #2 ethernet port to computer to do this.


Things to note:
1. Router features like DHCP and port forwarding should be disabled in the second router while in AP mode so that only main router will assign IP Addresses. Parental controls should also be disabled in the access point router. The gateway router should be the only one handling parental controls.For more information, see Disabled Features on the Router when set to AP Mode.
2. The second router should be assigned a static ip address (example if #1 has an ip of 192.168.0.1, #2 might be assigned 192.168.0.2)
3. On the AP, change the wireless channel so that it is different from your primary channel. By using a different channel on the secondary and primary routers, you can reduce interference on your network. The three channels that don't overlap at all are 1, 6 and 11. It's ideal to have the primary take one of those channels and the secondary another.
4. Assign SSID the same on both gateway and AP routers

You might also consider letting your ISP handle your DNS.
 
Last edited:

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ellellell1

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Hi, thanks for your reply.

I might have got my terminology slightly wrong. My router doesn't have a specific mode for acting as a repeater or access point. I have set it up to use a bridging mode.

I am a bit confused by the wikiHow as I have pretty much done all the steps. The gateway has an IP of 192.168.1.1 with DHCP ranging from 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.252. The other has an IP of 192.168.1.253.

One thing I did notice, is if I turn the second router off and on. It works for about 2 minutes, then stops working. Also setting up a mobile hotspot on my computer to act as the second router also works.
 

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glasskuter

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It works for about 2 minutes,
I'm not a networking expert by any means but I'll throw these ideas out anyway. It may be that speed is your issue. Test your speed at different points in your network. Using your gateway router, with your phone or tablet's browser, run a speed test. Speedtest by Ookla - The Global Broadband Speed Test

Then, connect wirelessly to second router. Open it's browser and run another speed test. How much loss do you see compared to the gateway?
Since you say it will work for several minutes through the second router when you power it off and on, do that and wait a few minutes to run another speed test to see if speed is dropping. This will prove if speed loss is causing the issue.

As well as DHCP, try turning NAT off in the second router to see if it makes a difference. If it's on, it could be conflicting with the NAT controls of the first router. Also verify that parental controls are off.

There is a possibility that the wireless side of your second router is faulty. Wired and wireless use different circuitry within a router. That would account for why it works for a few minutes after a power off/on. This sudden burst of current could make a faulty capacitor work for a few minutes.
 

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ellellell1

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There is a possibility that the wireless side of your second router is faulty. Wired and wireless use different circuitry within a router. That would account for why it works for a few minutes after a power off/on. This sudden burst of current could make a faulty capacitor work for a few minutes.
Yea I think your are right.

I did end up changing the second router's wifi security to WPA/WPA2 with TKIP+AES. Which resulted in all apps working. Disney+ now works 50% of the time, but I can live with that.

I will probably get a dedicated router/repeater sometime in the future to replace it.

Thanks very much for all your support!
 

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glasskuter

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I will probably get a dedicated router/repeater
When you do, make sure it's one that can be configured as a access point. As I said in my first post, xtenders/repeaters essentially halves your bandwidth. I think this netgear of mine was $40 well spent.
 

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Superfly

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I'm not a networking expert by any means but I'll throw these ideas out anyway. It may be that speed is your issue. Test your speed at different points in your network. Using your gateway router, with your phone or tablet's browser, run a speed test. Speedtest by Ookla - The Global Broadband Speed Test

Then, connect wirelessly to second router. Open it's browser and run another speed test. How much loss do you see compared to the gateway?
Since you say it will work for several minutes through the second router when you power it off and on, do that and wait a few minutes to run another speed test to see if speed is dropping. This will prove if speed loss is causing the issue.

As well as DHCP, try turning NAT off in the second router to see if it makes a difference. If it's on, it could be conflicting with the NAT controls of the first router. Also verify that parental controls are off.

There is a possibility that the wireless side of your second router is faulty. Wired and wireless use different circuitry within a router. That would account for why it works for a few minutes after a power off/on. This sudden burst of current could make a faulty capacitor work for a few minutes.
Thanx for this :wink: I had no idea why my TV stream was buffering when it had an extender right next to it - checking the bandwidth from the Router (which is in the West wing of my house..lol ) vs the Extender (in the East wing) indeed was >2x as fast.
 

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glasskuter

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jimbo45

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Hi folks

I've found the best system BAR NONE for streaming content from a computer / HDD or whatever is just to get an Amazon fire stick (around 40 - 60 EUR) and install KODI on it.

Then absolutely no problems . Including any iso rips of DVD's / Blue ray stuff etc/

That's of course assuming you are watching on a remote TV.

For other things if you want on a computer rather than TV - just install various iptc stuff.

E.G for BBC stuff (outside UK you need VPN)

Screenshot_20220911_150919.png


Cheers
jimbo
 

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ShamrockRig

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Thanx for this :wink: I had no idea why my TV stream was buffering when it had an extender right next to it - checking the bandwidth from the Router (which is in the West wing of my house..lol ) vs the Extender (in the East wing) indeed was >2x as fast.
east and west wing? Do you live in some form of castle/mansion ? xD
 

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TraderGary

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Consider a Mesh system. I have a NetGear Orbi Mesh that covers my entire home and yard seamlessly.
 

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A thing that I have noted with a few of my streaming services.... Most of the Microsoft Store apps are using some form of Edge browser emulation and I find that I have to turn off those web sites in my Ad blocking browser add-ons. IF the Ad block is on, I see the same behavior you describe.
 

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Winuser

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I've found the best system BAR NONE for streaming content from a computer / HDD or whatever is just to get an Amazon fire stick (around 40 - 60 EUR) and install KODI on it.
Without the need to install KODI, My Roku box runs circles around my Fire Stick and Fire Box. I only use them to access my security cameras on my TVs. If it wasn't for the cameras, they would be in my spare junk box or heading to Goodwill.
 

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Without the need to install KODI, My Roku box runs circles around my Fire Stick and Fire Box. I only use them to access my security cameras on my TVs. If it wasn't for the cameras, they would be in my spare junk box or heading to Goodwill.
Roku also a good solution of course -- but you get the idea !!! Also outside the US Roku boxes aren't so easily available quickly.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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Winuser

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Roku also a good solution of course -- but you get the idea !!! Also outside the US Roku boxes aren't so easily available quickly.

Cheers
jimbo
I can't say anything about the availability of the Roku devices outside of the US. I just know that the Roku is the best streaming device I ever bought. It works better than my smart TVs and Sony Blu-ray players. My original streaming box was the WD TV Live. I have a Roku box and a 24" Roku TV made by Sharp. Our son has the Roku soundbar. I have a Mini PC running Mezzmo to stream my content and with the Firestick and Fire Box I had enough problems that I went back to the Roku Box. For now, I'm only going to use the Firestick and Box to access the cameras. This may change as amazon releases firmware updates.
 

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    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
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    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
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    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
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    Logitech K270
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    Logitech M185
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    ESET Internet Security
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    Windows 11 Dev
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    HP Envy x360 15-ds1083cl
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    16 MB DDR 4-2666
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    PCIe NVMe M.2 512GB
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ellellell1

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Just a general update.

I got a new router, configured as the GATEWAY and placed it right next to the Chromecast (with Google TV).
Looks like everything is working now.

Alas, yet another problem, and yes only occurs with Disney Plus...

When I pair my Bluetooth external speaker (Harman Kardon - HK Onyx Studio 4) to the Chromecast, Disney Plus (launch and browse is fine), but does not play videos using the Bluetooth speaker (general error - something went wrong).

Only when I turn off the Bluetooth speaker, and use the normal TV speakers, it plays fine.

Doesn't bother me too much, but still open to suggestions :wink:
 

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    Gigabyte - B560M DS3H AC (GGPC Hero)
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    Intel Core i5 10400 @ 2.90GHz - Comet Lake 14nm Technol
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    Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. B560M DS3H AC (U3E1)
    Memory
    16.0GB Single-Channel Kingston DDR4 @ 1330MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 (Gigabyte Technology)
    Sound Card
    Realtek High Definition Audio & NVIDIA High Definition Audio
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    3 (LG Ultrafine 27UP600-W HDR, Dell E2009W, Lenovo L197 Wide)
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    500GB Crucial CT500P2SSD8 (SSD)
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    Cooler Master Mini
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    Dell SK-8165
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    Marsback Zephyr Pro Gaming Mouse RGB
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glasskuter

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    Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.819
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    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
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    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 m.2 2230-256+1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
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    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
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    Windows 10 Pro 21H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
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    Logitech wired
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    still not telling
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    Firefox
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    Defender+MWB Premium

Superfly

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east and west wing? Do you live in some form of castle/mansion ? xD
LOL... No the problem is the thick walls - I'm building an extension for my son - extenders don't work so thinking of splitting the fibre from the pole outside and having two routers - dunno if it will help but can't think of other ways to get the speed across without latency.
 

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