Slow start up


ICIT2LOL

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I have an older Ivy Bridge build that I am running both Windows 10 and Windows 11 (unsupported hardware version) on and just lately it has been getting very slow to start up. I also have a problem with getting into the BIOS screen too which again is very slow if at all ( a bit hit and miss) and am wondering if anyone has got any ideas on what is causing this to happen, please. I should add that both versions of Windows are on two separate SSD's which I just change the SATA cable over to when I want to get onto Windows 10 or 11.
Any help really be appreciated.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Genaric
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50MB max
    Browser
    Edge

ICIT2LOL

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Anyone ?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Genaric
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50MB max
    Browser
    Edge

glasskuter

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I am not a hardware expert by any means, but a failing HDD would normally be my first suspect but since it happens on two drives and they're both SSDs, I would eliminate it being the PSU or ram. If it proved to be neither of those, it may a motherboard component failing (the AHCI controller maybe). Visually look at the lights on your motherboard as you turn it on to see if they appear abnormal (ie flickering) and examine for bulging capacitors.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.819
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 m.2 2230-256+1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 21H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium

ICIT2LOL

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Thanks glasskutter I will check those out. The drives are relatively new and I was wondering too if it could be the CMOS (BIOS) battery.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Genaric
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50MB max
    Browser
    Edge

Ghot

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As you probably know, I do the same thing. Win 10 on one SSD and Win 11 on the other.
I too just switch the cables.

However, I always unplug the SATA power cable first, THEN unplug the data cable.
When moving the cables to the 2nd SSD, I always plug the SATA power in first, and then the data cable.

Every now and then when I pulled the data cable first, Windows would get corrupted.
Since I changed to the method above... no issues.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22621.900 ♦♦♦♦♦♦22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4201)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    100/100
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    100/100
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?183088-5000-B-E-on-M2N32-SLI-Dlx-Overclocked&p=2891724#post2891724

ICIT2LOL

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Ok ghot I might try your method it is just that both drives are hooked to power permanently and I just switch the data cable over and it did afterwards occur to me that maybe using the same cable for the data to both drives it is getting a little worn out?
It did this morning fire up with no issues though and I only use the Windows 10 drive for when there are updates for when support for the unsupported hardware version of 11 runs out on that drive.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Genaric
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50MB max
    Browser
    Edge

Ghot

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Ok ghot I might try your method it is just that both drives are hooked to power permanently and I just switch the data cable over and it did afterwards occur to me that maybe using the same cable for the data to both drives it is getting a little worn out?
It did this morning fire up with no issues though and I only use the Windows 10 drive for when there are updates for when support for the unsupported hardware version of 11 runs out on that drive.


If you have power to both drives... that's fine.
But I would still just unhook the SATA power, before I messed with the data cable.

I have no idea if this is really a thing, or not.
I just know that I occasionally had corruption issues when I messed with the SSD data cable first.
So now... I always do the SATA power cable first, then the data cable.

And even though I've switched between W10 and Win 11 SSDs about 500 times... no problems.



P.S. I too, worry about wearing the connectors... so I do it very slowly and gently, each time.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22621.900 ♦♦♦♦♦♦22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4201)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    100/100
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    100/100
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?183088-5000-B-E-on-M2N32-SLI-Dlx-Overclocked&p=2891724#post2891724

ICIT2LOL

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Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
Ok mate I will take your advice and take the power cable out first and then the data cable.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Build 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus
    CPU
    i7 -10510U
    Motherboard
    Asus
    Memory
    Samsung 16GB DDR4 2666 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    On board Intel
    Sound Card
    N/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Genaric
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro NMe
    PSU
    N/A
    Case
    N/A
    Cooling
    Asus in built
    Keyboard
    Generic
    Mouse
    Logitec Wireless
    Internet Speed
    50MB max
    Browser
    Edge

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