CPU runs very slow 50% of the time


Lamberto Vitali

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Windows 11 Professional (not the cut down rubbish)
I have an old Q8400 quad core CPU and often it goes at a fraction of the speed. Rebooting usually makes it go normal speed, for about half a day, then it goes slow again. Novabench scores the CPU at 51 when slow and 381 when fast. The clock is normal, the temperature is normal. Where do I look next? Is it the CPU's fault or the motherboard?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Professional (not the cut down rubbish)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built, of course
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900XT (on this one anyway, I have 8)
    Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
    Memory
    72G and 72GB and 64GB and 32GB and 32GB and 8GB and 8GB and 8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Fury and 12 Tahitis
    Sound Card
    People still use cards for those?
    Monitor(s) Displays
    7 of them.
    Screen Resolution
    All sorts.
    Hard Drives
    1TB NVME, 4TB rust spinner
    PSU
    Several kW
    Case
    Unimportant
    Cooling
    Big Zalman 6 inch thing
    Keyboard
    Really?
    Mouse
    Yes
    Internet Speed
    32Mbit/7Mbit
    Browser
    Opera
    Antivirus
    AVG
    Other Info
    [Crosses legs] Exactly what info are you looking for?
I have an old Q8400 quad core CPU and often it goes at a fraction of the speed. Rebooting usually makes it go normal speed, for about half a day, then it goes slow again. Novabench scores the CPU at 51 when slow and 381 when fast. The clock is normal, the temperature is normal. Where do I look next? Is it the CPU's fault or the motherboard?


There's two ways I can think of that a CPU would slow down.

1. Throttling due to excessive heat.
2. Control Panel > Power Options... your power plan may have changed, because of an update.
...and 2b. under Advanced Power Settings, your Processor power management settings may have changed.

It could also be a BIOS change, due to BIOS update or glitch.
But rebooting wouldn't fix #2 or the BIOS.

Hardware wise, it may be the motherboard's voltage regulators or even a leaky capacitor.

It almost sounds like Windows is doing it (because rebooting clears the problem).
But I would think it would be the other way around if the cause was Windows.
Like the CPU runs normally, but then all of a sudden... speeds up a lot.


I guess it could be some background process causing the slow down and the reboot stops the process.
Check Task Manager when the slow down occurs.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦26100.3775 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦24H2 ♦♦♦non-Insider
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 5002)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 15 years?
There's two ways I can think of that a CPU would slow down.

1. Throttling due to excessive heat.
2. Control Panel > Power Options... your power plan may have changed, because of an update.
...and 2b. under Advanced Power Settings, your Processor power management settings may have changed.

It could also be a BIOS change, due to BIOS update or glitch.
But rebooting wouldn't fix #2 or the BIOS.

Hardware wise, it may be the motherboard's voltage regulators or even a leaky capacitor.

It almost sounds like Windows is doing it (because rebooting clears the problem).
But I would think it would be the other way around if the cause was Windows.
Like the CPU runs normally, but then all of a sudden... speeds up a lot.


I guess it could be some background process causing the slow down and the reboot stops the process.
Check Task Manager when the slow down occurs.
It's not overheating. I've checked electronically and physically.
Since a reboot fixes it, like you said it's not an option in the control panel causing it, or a BIOS setting. Although, reboot (or complete power down at the mains (and I've disabled hibernation so it's a proper shutdown)) is now no longer fixing it.
I can believe the voltage regulator is off, or a capacitor, it's an old motherboard.

These are the voltages, shouldn't Vcore match the VID it's requesting?
Is 11.3V too low? I notice the same model of PSU powering a Ryzen 9 3900X (much more power draw) is sat at 11.95V, and another of the same model of PSU only powering fans and a couple of SSDs and not a computer as a whole is at 11.6V. I'll try another PSU in it in a week after my holiday (I have some spares of the same model). If that doesn't fix it, I guess I could replace all the capacitors (they don't look broken so I don't know which to change) - do you think it's worth changing just the ones near the CPU?

From HWInfo:
Core VIDs = 1.1V idling, 1.288V under load
Vcore = 0.84V idling, 1.008V under load
VIN1 = 1.472V idling, 1.448V under load
+3.3V = 3.072V idling, 3.056V under load
+5V = 1.452V idling, 1.452V under load
VIN2 = 1.328V idling, 1.328V under load
VIN6 = 0.376V idling, 0.368V under load
3VSB = 3.072V idling, 3.056V under load

Voltages with multimeter = 11.3V (at CPU power connector), 5.3V and 3.35V (at motherboard power connector)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Professional (not the cut down rubbish)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built, of course
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900XT (on this one anyway, I have 8)
    Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
    Memory
    72G and 72GB and 64GB and 32GB and 32GB and 8GB and 8GB and 8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Fury and 12 Tahitis
    Sound Card
    People still use cards for those?
    Monitor(s) Displays
    7 of them.
    Screen Resolution
    All sorts.
    Hard Drives
    1TB NVME, 4TB rust spinner
    PSU
    Several kW
    Case
    Unimportant
    Cooling
    Big Zalman 6 inch thing
    Keyboard
    Really?
    Mouse
    Yes
    Internet Speed
    32Mbit/7Mbit
    Browser
    Opera
    Antivirus
    AVG
    Other Info
    [Crosses legs] Exactly what info are you looking for?
I have an old Q8400 quad core CPU and often it goes at a fraction of the speed. Rebooting usually makes it go normal speed, for about half a day, then it goes slow again. Novabench scores the CPU at 51 when slow and 381 when fast. The clock is normal, the temperature is normal. Where do I look next? Is it the CPU's fault or the motherboard?
Hi
Would you complete all the details of your PC?
Dave
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self built
    CPU
    Intel i8400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z370-P
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT710
    Sound Card
    ASUS Xonar D2X
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell SE2417HGXF Full HD Gaming Monitor, 24"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung V-NAND SSD 860EVO
    Other spinning HDDs
    PSU
    Xilence XP420
    Cooling
    PSU fan and stock CPU fan
    Mouse
    Microsoft
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avira free
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 on VMware (Release, Beta and Dev)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
Based on what you described - could be a faulty capacitor (if not shorted - it can take some time to manifest issues - while overheating). If you can get your hands on a thermal camera - that could really help with spotting the issue (or at least - it's the easiest way to spot the faulty component / or you could touch them by hand individually - and see if any of them gets really hot... the old way of doing things 👇 🔥).

Also, since above CPU is rather old - and you have good temps (proper cooling) - you could try raising the voltage slightly (while testing it for stability on each value increased - ofc). For a newly bought CPU - undervolting used to help more (except for latest generations from Intel - where they sabotaged undevolting / well, they started doing that - even with older versions cause of plundervolt vulnerability - but at least that can be reverted - not like 13th gen and most 12th gen) - but after some time (especially a decade or so) - they can struggle even with default/normal values (a time where increasing the voltage - is the only way to keep it floating till it's not worth it anymore).
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WinDOS 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    CPU
    Intel & AMD
    Memory
    SO-DIMM SK Hynix 15.8 GB Dual-Channel DDR4-2666 (2 x 8 GB) 1329MHz (19-19-19-43)
    Graphics Card(s)
    nVidia RTX 2060 6GB Mobile GPU (TU106M)
    Sound Card
    Onbord Realtek ALC1220
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1x Samsung PM981 NVMe PCIe M.2 512GB / 1x Seagate Expansion ST1000LM035 1TB
Hi
Would you complete all the details of your PC?
Dave
I hadn't done that as I have eight of them! I've filled in the offending one.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Professional (not the cut down rubbish)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built, of course
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900XT (on this one anyway, I have 8)
    Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
    Memory
    72G and 72GB and 64GB and 32GB and 32GB and 8GB and 8GB and 8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Fury and 12 Tahitis
    Sound Card
    People still use cards for those?
    Monitor(s) Displays
    7 of them.
    Screen Resolution
    All sorts.
    Hard Drives
    1TB NVME, 4TB rust spinner
    PSU
    Several kW
    Case
    Unimportant
    Cooling
    Big Zalman 6 inch thing
    Keyboard
    Really?
    Mouse
    Yes
    Internet Speed
    32Mbit/7Mbit
    Browser
    Opera
    Antivirus
    AVG
    Other Info
    [Crosses legs] Exactly what info are you looking for?
Based on what you described - could be a faulty capacitor (if not shorted - it can take some time to manifest issues - while overheating). If you can get your hands on a thermal camera - that could really help with spotting the issue (easiest way to spot the faulty component).

Also, since above CPU is rather old - and you have good temps (proper cooling) - you could try raising the voltage slightly (while testing it for stability on each value increased - ofc). For a newly bought CPU - undervolting used to help more (except for latest generations from Intel - where they sabotaged undevolting / well, they started doing that - even with older versions cause of plundervolt vulnerability - but at least that can be reverted - not like 13th gen and most 12th gen) - but after some time (especially a decade or so) - they can struggle even with default/normal values (a time where increasing the voltage - is the only way to keep it floating till it's not worth it anymore).
I have an IR thermometer, what am I looking for?

I'll also try overvolting after my 1 week holiday, after changing the PSU. That's if the Intel board allows it - if I can't do it in the BIOS, can it be done with software?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Professional (not the cut down rubbish)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built, of course
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900XT (on this one anyway, I have 8)
    Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
    Memory
    72G and 72GB and 64GB and 32GB and 32GB and 8GB and 8GB and 8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Fury and 12 Tahitis
    Sound Card
    People still use cards for those?
    Monitor(s) Displays
    7 of them.
    Screen Resolution
    All sorts.
    Hard Drives
    1TB NVME, 4TB rust spinner
    PSU
    Several kW
    Case
    Unimportant
    Cooling
    Big Zalman 6 inch thing
    Keyboard
    Really?
    Mouse
    Yes
    Internet Speed
    32Mbit/7Mbit
    Browser
    Opera
    Antivirus
    AVG
    Other Info
    [Crosses legs] Exactly what info are you looking for?
I'm referring to this. You can set the min and max, but I don't know what triggers the min or the max.
It could be something like how long the comp has been idle. If so, then a reboot would "reset" that, so to speak.


Image1.png


These are the default settings for my CPU and motherboard in the "Balanced" AMD power plan.
Without knowing "exactly" what triggers the minimum state, I can't know if a reboot would reset that or not.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦26100.3775 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦24H2 ♦♦♦non-Insider
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 5002)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 15 years?
I have an IR thermometer, what am I looking for?

I'll also try overvolting after my 1 week holiday, after changing the PSU. That's if the Intel board allows it - if I can't do it in the BIOS, can it be done with software?
Check for shorted capacitors (if shorted - that area gets overheated), then - use a voltmeter to measure the voltage just to be sure. Something like this:


You could try from BIOS - but it can be safer with an app like Intel XTU (official tool from intel) or ThrottleStop (more popular - tho, usually used for undevolting). If the value proves to be faulty in BIOS - you might have to reset it to revert back to default (removing the battery - tends to do the trick with old boards) - while within Windows - it will give you a BSOD and reset (not saving the values). Since your aim is not overclocking - for stability you don't need to increase it that much anyway.

LE.Btw, with TrhottlesStop you can also monitor the CPU usage - even log its activity. If you click on the "Limits" - it will show you if any BIOS options triggered a slowdown of your CPU for whatever reason (be it thermal or power limitation). If nothing gets triggered - that tab is shown as Empty/Black.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WinDOS 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    CPU
    Intel & AMD
    Memory
    SO-DIMM SK Hynix 15.8 GB Dual-Channel DDR4-2666 (2 x 8 GB) 1329MHz (19-19-19-43)
    Graphics Card(s)
    nVidia RTX 2060 6GB Mobile GPU (TU106M)
    Sound Card
    Onbord Realtek ALC1220
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1x Samsung PM981 NVMe PCIe M.2 512GB / 1x Seagate Expansion ST1000LM035 1TB
I'm referring to this. You can set the min and max, but I don't know what triggers the min or the max.
It could be something like how long the comp has been idle. If so, then a reboot would "reset" that, so to speak.


View attachment 50708


These are the default settings for my CPU and motherboard in the "Balanced" AMD power plan.
Without knowing "exactly" what triggers the minimum state, I can't know if a reboot would reset that or not.

Your ussage it's what triggers the low or high. If Windows is idle (or using an app that's almost equally demanding on the CPU) - it will get low, if you use an app that's even moderately demanding - it will raise the frequency. Since your max is set to 100% it can even get in to Turbo Boost mode (dynamic overlooking) - tho, that gets triggered only while using more demanding apps.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WinDOS 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    CPU
    Intel & AMD
    Memory
    SO-DIMM SK Hynix 15.8 GB Dual-Channel DDR4-2666 (2 x 8 GB) 1329MHz (19-19-19-43)
    Graphics Card(s)
    nVidia RTX 2060 6GB Mobile GPU (TU106M)
    Sound Card
    Onbord Realtek ALC1220
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    1x Samsung PM981 NVMe PCIe M.2 512GB / 1x Seagate Expansion ST1000LM035 1TB
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