How to Upgrade Win 10 to Win 11 after Motherboard Upgrade


Hi Dru2, so just to be clear, If I do a clean install doesn't that remove all my applications and data? I am hoping to avoid that since I have so many apps that I am not sure I have their original disks or install files. Maybe there are more options with Win 11 installation that I don't know. Also, doesn't a clean install replace all the drivers which for me, may be problematic due to old hardware and old applications?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
Hi Dru2, so just to be clear, If I do a clean install doesn't that remove all my applications and data? I am hoping to avoid that since I have so many apps that I am not sure I have their original disks or install files. Maybe there are more options with Win 11 installation that I don't know. Also, doesn't a clean install replace all the drivers which for me, may be problematic due to old hardware and old applications?
With a clean install you will be starting new. You will lose everything.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Experience shows that Windows 10 will automatically find drivers for new hardware when moved on another computer. The chance of a BSOD is smaller with every new Windows generation. However, since Windows XP there is a process called Generalising that prepares the OS to move on new hardware. I don't remember how it is done, but you can Google it. So you generalise your current Windows 10 installation and then you move it on the new hardware. After successful upgrade, activation and driver update, you can upgrade to Windows 11. See respective thread to bypass compatibility check.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Good to know, spapakons. I am considering keeping my GPU and installing it on the new MB just to minimize the confusion. My current monitor has both DVI and HDMI so I can make the change to HDMI once I get Win 10 working OK before I upgrade to Win 11. I will check out the generalise process as you have suggested to be more informed. Thanks for the tip.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3296
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 +256gb ssd+512 gb usb m.2 sata
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
Thanks for the clarification, glasskuter. I will check it out.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
I don't think generalisation is necessary, but do it just in case.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Update: I have been successful at getting Windows 10 Pro re-activated after changing the MoBrd out and retaining all the old hardware such as the GPU and C: drive but I still do not pass the Microsoft PCHealthCheck. I get a Secure Boot error. When I check my UEFI Bios, the CSM feature is enabled( I did not make this selection manually). After some more checking, I discovered that my Windows version does not support Secure Boot and is booting into Legacy automatcally(see attached msinfo32 snapshot). If I disable the CSM feature in BIOS and reboot, the system only goes to the BIOS, never to windows. It seems clear that the only way for me to pass the Microsoft PCHealthCheck is to change my Windows version or the C: drive altogether. I will leave it at this point and say thanks to all who participated in this discussion. I have a new issue that I will post as a new topic.
 

Attachments

  • OS no Support for UEFI_msinfo32.JPG
    OS no Support for UEFI_msinfo32.JPG
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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
Update: I have been successful at getting Windows 10 Pro re-activated after changing the MoBrd out and retaining all the old hardware such as the GPU and C: drive but I still do not pass the Microsoft PCHealthCheck. I get a Secure Boot error. When I check my UEFI Bios, the CSM feature is enabled( I did not make this selection manually). After some more checking, I discovered that my Windows version does not support Secure Boot and is booting into Legacy automatcally(see attached msinfo32 snapshot). If I disable the CSM feature in BIOS and reboot, the system only goes to the BIOS, never to windows. It seems clear that the only way for me to pass the Microsoft PCHealthCheck is to change my Windows version or the C: drive altogether. I will leave it at this point and say thanks to all who participated in this discussion. I have a new issue that I will post as a new topic.
The problem is that your Windows is installed on an MBR drive as a legacy BIOS install. You need to convert it to UEFI compatible:
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Homebuilt
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800XT
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero (WiFi)
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Education
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7773
    CPU
    Intel i7-8550U
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce MX150
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 512GB NVMe SSD
    SK Hynix 512GB SATA SSD
    Internet Speed
    Fast!
I get a Secure Boot error. When I check my UEFI Bios, the CSM feature is enabled( I did not make this selection manually). After some more checking, I discovered that my Windows version does not support Secure Boot and is booting into Legacy
1) How old is your GPU?
2) While I can't speak on MBR, I know for fact CSM needs to be "disabled" in order to enable Secure Boot.

And the reason for the question about the GPU is if it does not support UEFI, you can't disable CSM. With that if your GPU is newer than 2017, it should support UEFI. You can check by using GPU-Z. The main tab will have an area where a checkmark will indicate whether the card supports UEFI.

I'm out now so can't post links. Let us know.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (Build 22631.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    Intel i9-9900K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Xtreme
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair RGB Dominator Platinum (3600Mhz)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon VII
    Sound Card
    Onboard (ESS Sabre HiFi using Realtek drivers)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    NEC PA242w (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    5 Samsung SSD drives: 2X 970 NVME (512 & 1TB), 3X EVO SATA (2X 2TB, 1X 1TB)
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova I000 G2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Cooler Master H500M
    Cooling
    Corsair H115i RGB Platinum
    Keyboard
    Logitech Craft
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    500mb Download. 11mb Upload
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    System used for gaming, photography, music, school.
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro 22H2 (build 19045.2130)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-7700K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z270X-GAMING 8
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair Dominator Platinum (3333Mhz)
    Graphics card(s)
    AMD Radeon R9 Fury
    Sound Card
    Onboard (Creative Sound Blaster certified ZxRi)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2415 (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    3 Samsung SSD drives: 1x 512gig 950 NVMe drive (OS drive), 1 x 512gig 850 Pro, 1x 256gig 840 Pro.
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova 1000 P2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Phantek Enthoo Luxe
    Cooling
    Corsair H100i
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master
    Keyboard
    Logitech MK 710
    Internet Speed
    100MB
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    This is my backup system.
You have a legacy installation. You must either covert it to UEFI or do a clean installation in UEFI mode. To enable Secure Boot you must disable CSM Legacy boot. I find it easier to just delete the file C:\Windows.~BT\sources\appreserres.dll at first Setup screen before proceeding. This will skip compatibility check and let you upgrade your Legacy installation to Windows 11. I assume you have downloaded Windows 11 ISO, you mounted it and you started Setup from there.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
I upgraded my PC with a new mobo and CPU. At bootup, Windows was not activated so I did the thing where you can activate after a hardware change and it worked. Then it turned out that the mobo was defective and I sent it back for a new one. At first bootup, again Windows was not activated and the hardware change option wouldn't work because it said I had already done it. I called Microsoft and the guy told me to do all the things I had already tried and of course they didn't work. Then he said there was one more thing we could try and that was entering the 8.1 product key the computer originally came with. I was doubtful that it would work but it did. Subsequently I have upgraded to Win 11 through Windows Update without any problems.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Home
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
    Motherboard
    MSI B550-A Pro
    Memory
    16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200
    Graphics Card(s)
    PowerColor Red Devil Radeon RX 6600XT with 8GB GDDR6
    Sound Card
    Realtek integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer Nitro 24" RG241Y 144hz refresh rate
    Screen Resolution
    1920 X 1080
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB NVMe SSD
    Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB SATA SSD
    Seagate Barracuda 1 TB HDD
    PSU
    LEPA B650 650 watt
    Case
    Enermax Coenus
    Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper T4 air
    Keyboard
    CM Storm Devastator
    Mouse
    E-Blue Cobra Jr.
    Internet Speed
    100mbs
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Defender
    Other Info
    Optical Drives: LG DVD-RW and Pioneer BluRay/ DVD burner
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus ROG Zephyrus G14
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 6900HS
    Motherboard
    Asus board (GA402RK)
    Memory
    16 GB Samsung DDR5-4800
    Graphics card(s)
    Integrated Radeon 680M and discrete Radeon RX 6800S with 8GB GDDR6
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek with Dolby Atmos
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Laptop screen 14" WQXGA, IPS, 120hz refresh rate
    Screen Resolution
    2560 X 1600
    Hard Drives
    1TB PCIe Gen 4 SSD (WD Black SN850)
    PSU
    Battery power and Asus power brick/adapter. Also has USB-C charging
    Case
    Laptop
    Cooling
    Laptop fans in vapor chamber
    Mouse
    Touchpad and Omoton bluetooth mouse
    Keyboard
    Built in RGB backlit
    Internet Speed
    100mbps
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Defender
Then he said there was one more thing we could try and that was entering the 8.1 product key the computer originally came with. I was doubtful that it would work but it did. Subsequently I have upgraded to Win 11 through Windows Update without any problems.

Yeah, that one usually works :)
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (Build 22631.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    Intel i9-9900K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Xtreme
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair RGB Dominator Platinum (3600Mhz)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon VII
    Sound Card
    Onboard (ESS Sabre HiFi using Realtek drivers)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    NEC PA242w (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    5 Samsung SSD drives: 2X 970 NVME (512 & 1TB), 3X EVO SATA (2X 2TB, 1X 1TB)
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova I000 G2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Cooler Master H500M
    Cooling
    Corsair H115i RGB Platinum
    Keyboard
    Logitech Craft
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    500mb Download. 11mb Upload
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    System used for gaming, photography, music, school.
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro 22H2 (build 19045.2130)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-7700K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z270X-GAMING 8
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair Dominator Platinum (3333Mhz)
    Graphics card(s)
    AMD Radeon R9 Fury
    Sound Card
    Onboard (Creative Sound Blaster certified ZxRi)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2415 (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    3 Samsung SSD drives: 1x 512gig 950 NVMe drive (OS drive), 1 x 512gig 850 Pro, 1x 256gig 840 Pro.
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova 1000 P2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Phantek Enthoo Luxe
    Cooling
    Corsair H100i
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master
    Keyboard
    Logitech MK 710
    Internet Speed
    100MB
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    This is my backup system.
Thanks for the GPU-Z tip, Dru2. I ran it and it has a check box with UEFI. The card is an Asus GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5 and I just updated the driver to a 2020 update so this eliminates any other legacy issues except for C: drive & Windows 10 Pro. I plan to install a M.2 SSD and transfer the C: OS to that drive in the near future which will allow me to format for GPT rather than NTSF and most likely clear the Secure Boot error. Is there anything else I need to consider?
Spapakons, I agree with your post but I'm not quite ready to do the upgrade to Windows 11 just yet. I intend to get all the upgraded hardware working properly before I move on to Windows 11. I just made a image backup using Macrium Relect 8 and once I get my M.2SSD installed, I will try to move the image to the new C: drive.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
Thanks for the link, NavyLCDR, this looks a little tricky but a lot easier and quicker than moving my C: drive to another drive with GPT formatting.
I will still do a backup image of my C: drive as a precautionary measure. I hope this will allow me to boot up in UEFI only which should enable the Secure Boot in my Windows System.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
I plan to install a M.2 SSD and transfer the C: OS to that drive in the near future which will allow me to format for GPT rather than NTSF and most likely clear the Secure Boot error. Is there anything else I need to consider?
You're getting yourself confused with terms and tech. GPT is a drive partition structure. NTFS is a file format. NTFS is the default file format Windows 10 and 11 uses, so no choice there. GPT is a drive structure and there is a choice between GPT and MBR, though GPT is the better more modern choice for modern systems - What’s the Difference Between GPT and MBR When Partitioning a Drive?

With that, I would urge you to slow down and don't get caught up tech jargon you don't understand. If you're not clear on something say so, and don't be afraid to recognize when something is above your head.

Anyway, and in keeping things simple, you should be running in UEFI, not legacy or MBR. That's tech of yesterday. Your hardware is tech of today.

Good luck.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (Build 22631.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    Intel i9-9900K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Xtreme
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair RGB Dominator Platinum (3600Mhz)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon VII
    Sound Card
    Onboard (ESS Sabre HiFi using Realtek drivers)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    NEC PA242w (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    5 Samsung SSD drives: 2X 970 NVME (512 & 1TB), 3X EVO SATA (2X 2TB, 1X 1TB)
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova I000 G2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Cooler Master H500M
    Cooling
    Corsair H115i RGB Platinum
    Keyboard
    Logitech Craft
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    500mb Download. 11mb Upload
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    System used for gaming, photography, music, school.
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro 22H2 (build 19045.2130)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-7700K
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z270X-GAMING 8
    Memory
    32G (4x8) DDR4 Corsair Dominator Platinum (3333Mhz)
    Graphics card(s)
    AMD Radeon R9 Fury
    Sound Card
    Onboard (Creative Sound Blaster certified ZxRi)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2415 (24 inch)
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    3 Samsung SSD drives: 1x 512gig 950 NVMe drive (OS drive), 1 x 512gig 850 Pro, 1x 256gig 840 Pro.
    PSU
    EVGA Super Nova 1000 P2 (1000 watt)
    Case
    Phantek Enthoo Luxe
    Cooling
    Corsair H100i
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master
    Keyboard
    Logitech MK 710
    Internet Speed
    100MB
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    This is my backup system.
Make sure you install all drivers before moving Windows to M.2 as it might fail to boot if the M.2 controller driver is not properly installed. It is possible to convert MBR to UEFI disk with third party tools but if not done correctly it might not be bootable. If you have difficulty booting, have an UEFI USB Flash drive ready with Windows Setup. You can boot the computer from the Flash drive and then click on Repair Windows. This will copy the appropriate files on the disk to make it load Windows.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Thanks for the correction, Dru2. I did mistake NTFS for MBR but I have a better understanding now. Sometimes typing the responses can be rushed a little, causing mistypes like this. I have been looking into using the MBR2GPT utility to change my C: drive but when they claim the data will not be touched does that include programs such as Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop? I think of data as only content or files that I have created and stored separate from my applications. I actually store the data on a separate drive which makes it easier to backup.

Spapakons: Is there a way to determine if the M.2 controller driver is current? Do I find that in device manager? Also, how would you suggest I create a UEFI bootable flash drive? I do have a emergency repair disk(flash drive) that I made when I installed Windows 10 but that was in 2014, probably not UEFI bootable.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Clone
    CPU
    Intel i5-2500K, LGA 1155
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime z590-P
    Memory
    G.Skill Ripjaw DDR4 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce GT-730-SL-2GD5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS VX238H 23" HD
    Screen Resolution
    1280 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    Western Digital WD1001F, 1TB, SATA
    Hitachi HDS721010CLA332, 1TB, SATA, Hybrid
    PSU
    Roswill Glacier 850M
    Case
    Antec P7 Neo
    Cooling
    x3 120mm Chassis Fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    100 mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Full Security
    Other Info
    DVD-ROM Burner: LG UH12LS28, Blu-Ray x12, SATA
    HP G4010 Flatbed Scanner
    Epson R260 Printer
    Logitech Web Cam
@optimxr,

The MBR to GPT conversion does not alter any files in C: drive. The MBR to GPT conversion happens at the partition definition level, not in the NTFS filesystem itself. The MBR to GPT conversion typically takes less than 1 minute. Your C: drive is shrunk by a few hundred MB, the entire disk's partition definitions are changed from MBR to GPT, and a FAT32 EFI system partition is created and populated with boot files in the space resulting from shrinking the C: drive partition. The actual file contents of C: drive (and other existing partitions) remain untouched.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Homebuilt
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800XT
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero (WiFi)
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Education
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7773
    CPU
    Intel i7-8550U
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce MX150
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 512GB NVMe SSD
    SK Hynix 512GB SATA SSD
    Internet Speed
    Fast!
I have a Windows 10 machine(Ver 21H1,build 19043.1348) with a Asus P8P67 MoBrd and am upgrading to ASUS Prime Z590-P MoBrd before I attempt to upgrade to Win 11. Will this make the Win 11 upgrade fail? The new CPU is i5-11600K(10th Gen) which I believe supports Windows 11 and TPM.
You are good to go with your hardware. Your CPU is 11th gen by the way. You will need to change the BIOS so that TPM is firmware instead of integral. Also you will need to change the secure boot element from other OS to Windows UEFI. If your Windows 10 drive has an MBR partition scheme you will have to change it to UEFI or else be prepared to have a drive with no data.. Nothing related to Win 11 works with MBR partitions.

The way to do the OS upgrade is to download the Win 11 ISO file from microsoft and copy it over to a USB drive. Then boot your computer from your windows 10 UEFI drive and go to the flash drive to run the ISO file. If you create a bootable flash drive with windows 11, you will not be able to upgrade without clearing the target drive. By booting from your windows 10 drive, the installation will accept your existing key and validate the installation. This will upgrade you to 11 without losing the contents of your drive. A second option would be to go to settings>update and let microsoft upgrade it over the internet.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    win 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Homebrew
    CPU
    Core i5 10400
    Motherboard
    ASUS B560-Plus
    Memory
    8 GB DDR4
    Graphics Card(s)
    Heatsink cooled ASUS
    Sound Card
    None. Business computer
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS
    Screen Resolution
    1920
    Hard Drives
    1TB WD NVME SSD
    PSU
    Cooler Master 600 watt
    Case
    Cooler Master
    Cooling
    fans
    Keyboard
    ergonomic
    Mouse
    Microsoft
    Internet Speed
    Very slow - satellite internet, nothing else available.
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
    Other Info
    5 other computers on our network including Win 11, 10 and Linux.
  • Operating System
    Win 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Aspire 3
    CPU
    core i5
    Motherboard
    Acer
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics card(s)
    integral

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