Intermittent boot problem - stuck at spinning dots (sometimes)


If the power supply or other parts are still under Warranty I would have the computer checked and replace it as needed. If for example it doesn't give accurate voltages (3.3V, 5V, 12V lines) the RAM or the graphics card would malfunction and hence the freezes. At next attempt the voltages are closer to the correct values and the system boots. At Service they can check the power supply with a tester, they can check RAM for errors with a utility such as Memtest, they can check the whole hardware using a utility such as Burnin Test, the hard drive with Hard Disk Sentinel etc. You could download these tools and check for yourself before leaving it at the Service. Also it doesn't harm to update all your drivers to eliminate the possibility of a faulty driver freezing the system at startup. Download the graphics drivers directly from nVidia, don't rely on Windows Update. I would even try a different output for the monitor. Try another HDMI or Display Port.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
My symptoms were exactly same as yours, would boot fine for days then spinning circle no boot, restart and all fine. Never had issue again since setting to single monitor.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6600 CPU @ 3.30GHz
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte B150
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel 530 On Board
    Sound Card
    Realtek On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 850 SSD
    PSU
    be quite Straight Power 11
    Case
    be quite Pure Base 600
    Keyboard
    MS USB
    Mouse
    Logitech Wireless
    Browser
    Edge
Bringing this back up as after 6 months of trial and testing it still hasnt resolved. Symptoms are the same - roughly once every 4-5 days the PC doesnt boot, but a power off/on makes it boot absolutely fine and it behaves great. I'm still of the belief that it's unlikely a hardware fault given how efficient and crash-free the PC has been whilst constantly running games for hours daily, but right now I'm mostly after some confirmation on exactly what the symptoms mean:

I've checked windows event logs but all I can see is a single info event saying that shutdown status was false on the days it happens, so Windows realise it didnt boot but otherwise logs nothing.

For reference, this is what my boot sequence looks like when I power up my PC for the first time each morning:
  • Case RGB + Keyboard lights come on. Fan spinup for 3-4 secs.
  • Monitor comes on. Bios Logo appears.
  • Mouse + Mic lights come on.
  • Mouse + Mic lights go off. Spinning Circles appear on boot screen.
  • Mouse + Mic lights come back on. (PC always reaches this point in boot sequence. Friend said this means BIOS has loaded fine and it's found the Win11 OS and is now using the Win11 USB controller and is loading devices via Windows?)
  • If it works, the Spinning Circles pause briefly and it bounces to the Windows login splash. All good. Machine runs brilliantly.
  • If it FAILS though the circles keep spinning forever, the Mouse Light goes out, but the Mic light stays lit. This is where I need to power off the PC, and so far it then 100% boots fine afterwards.
I'd love some education on EXACTLY what it means when the spinning circles just keep going on boot. No errors are throwing up, they keep spinning and nothing beeps or freezes. The only problems I can find online regarding boot fails at permanently spinning circles imply a failed hardware and the hardware needs to be removed to fix, but this problem is fixed by just a quick power off, and then the PC works flawlessly. As said, as it's currently not a major inconvenience I'd rather not go down the route of replacing any hardware until I've exhausted all easy software/driver type issues (particularly as Garrett above said he had the same symptoms and it was fixed via a windows display setting change).

Was what my friend said correct about the USB controller? He said that the BIOS uses a USB controller on powerup to get your devices working, then once BIOS has booted, it finds the OS, and then "hands over" control of the USB to the OS drivers, which is why the mouse/keyboard/mic come on early in bootup, then go off again, but then come on again at the end when Windows takes over? If it's getting to this point every time, does that imply the BIOS and hardware is fine but Windows drivers are an issue?

Any comments or help to understand what's happening would be great!
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
Do you have any external USB devices connected?
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3296
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Do you have any external USB devices connected?
The only USB devices I have are my mouse (logitech G203), my keyboard, and a desktop mic, but the mic was bought a couple of months after I got the PC and the issue was happening before I got it so I pretty much ruled that out. When the spinning dots keep going when it fails, my mouse light goes out but the mic light stays on, so it hasnt turned off all the USB devices. Could it simply be a weird mouse issue causing it?

(I assume you meant external usb storage devices? In which case, no, i did use one once for some file transfers from my old PC but havent since).

What confused me was how a simple power off/on fixes the issue every time. No need to actually change any settings anywhere. Curious what the difference is in the actual startup sequence that makes this happen.

I have 3 SSDs in the machine, one bootable and two storage/games ones. Am I right that the point at which the boot sequence reaches that the bios has successfully located Windows as the OS on that disc and is starting to load it and its the windows loading that's failing, rather than the bios itself before any OS is found?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
just try unplugging all those usb things and see what happens.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3296
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
I guess a device (either internal or USB) is not powered properly and doesn't initialize. Windows wait for report from this device before proceeding and hence it stuck at the spinning dots. Once power is recycled (off and back on), the device initializes properly and Windows load. For internal devices, I would try another power cable (different SATA or PCIE power cable). For USB devices, I would try connecting to a different USB port. I would connect faster and more power demanding devices at the USB ports at the motherboard near the LAN port and the rest devices at the remaining ports. I had a similar issue with my old power supply. One DVD drive would get stuck and I had to remove the power cable and reconnect it before I could boot into Windows.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Thank you for the suggestions - I noticed that my Mouse and Keyboard were both plugged into the USB 2.0 ports at the far edge of the motherboard. The USB ports nearest the LAN connector were all USB Superspeed, but after your post Spapakons I read up a bit and seems there is definitely an "extra layer" of comms between the USB 2.0.

I've swapped both mouse and keyboard into two of the USB superspeed slots nearest to the LAN port. As always with this problem I wont know if it's fixed or not until the boot fail happens, so even if this didn't fix it I wont know until after 1-2 weeks of zero problems, but I'll see how this goes. What you describe certainly makes sense.

When the spinning circles keep going on a boot fail, the mouse loses power and this is what tells me the boot has failed. However, I'd originally thought this was just a failed boot powering down the USB but it seems my Mic light stays on, so could this represent what you say - the mouse being connected to the far USB 2.0 connector is failing sometimes to communicate back to windows after cold boots and windows ends up effectively turning it off/depowering it?

I know very little about USB controllers but your post does seem to tick a lot of boxes, fingers crossed this change does something!

If it still fails booting again in the coming week I'll probably try swapping out the mouse and keyboard entirely for two new models to make sure it's just not a slightly dodgy device. If that doesnt work I guess I can rule out USB devices/ports and reading your post I should look at my hard drives. I have three SSDs so whilst it's clearly having no issue finding the main drive with windows on I guess it could be a problem with failing to initialise one of the two storage SSDs on cold boots?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
UPDATE - so my keyboard is being rather weird. If I plug the keyboard into one of the USB superspeed ports near the LAN then it does not register on boot up (the mouse works fine in it). If I unplug the keyboard and plug it back into the USB port when I'm on the windows login screen then windows finds it and it works. It clearly isnt finding the keyboard in the bios bootup as although the RGB lights are on it does not turn on the caps lock light when the other USB devices load.

Confirmed that if i swap my keyboard back over to the old USB 2.0 slots everything boots fine. I guess I'll run the test week with the keyboard in the old USB 2.0 and the mouse now swapped to the USB superspeed near the LAN port and see what happens. If this doesnt fix it I think my keyboard might be the first piece of kit to get swapped out as surely it shouldn't fail to be seen in a USB superspeed until i unplug and replug it when windows has loaded?

This may be entirely unrelated to the issue, but is there a known issue with some keyboards being a bit flakey in USB superspeed ports?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
"Legacy" USB devices such as your keyboard may not work properly outside Windows if you connect them to a USB 3.0 or faster port. I always connect a simple keyboard and standard mouse on the USB 2.0 ports to make sure I won't have any compatibility issues. I reserve the faster ports for devices that will make a difference in performance, such as a USB 3.0 flash drive or hard disk. I recently confirmed that my external UHD Blu Ray drive has no problem reading a DVD or standard Blu Ray discs in USB 2.0 it can even read the contents of a UHD 4K Blu Ray disc, but in order to actually play a 4K disc I must connect it to a USB 3.0 port to get the appropriate power and speed.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Hi! I have the exact same issue. Stuck on the spinning dots screen. If keyboard rgb goes off, I know for a fact it will 100% not boot that time. I've done the usual sfc and dism checks, plugged both keyboard and mouse into USB2.0 ports, checked for ram failure, stress tested gpu and cpu to see if it would crash...

I've also performed multiple windows reinstalls (I kept files, so it's not a full fresh install, might wanna try that).
Only thing left to try for me is clearing CMOS and updating BIOS to latest version, though I doubt that will fix the issue.

No performance issues at all, during gaming, rendering.... everything runs as it should and is very stable (never crashed with this build)

One thing I've noticed is that if it goes into automatic repair screen (on 3rd forced reboot) and I exit to boot the OS, it boots just fine. Just like OP, if I restart, shutdown, it will boot just fine. Issue comes when I shutdown and boot up the following day or in a couple hours time, really weird. I can't reproduce the issue either if I disconnect PSU, will just randomly occur.



If anyone knows any other possible fix to this I'd love to know, I'm fed up of force shutting down my PC 3 times whenever I actually want to use it.

My specs for reference:
Win 10 22H2 64bit 19045.2604
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X (no OC)
32gb 3600mhz ram
B550m Aorus Elite
RTX3070 (no OC)
A400 SSD (OS)
2TB HDD, Files, Desktop, Downloads...
1TB HDD, extra files
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100
Try a powered USB hub.

Or run Ubuntu from a thumb drive and see if it has the same issues.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3296
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Try a powered USB hub.

Or run Ubuntu from a thumb drive and see if it has the same issues.
Can't reproduce the issue now. I'll keep the bootable USB in and I'll try to see whether it happens on ubuntu after a failed boot (I get 2 failed boots and 3rd one boots fine after troubleshoot screen). I'll report back when I have something.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100
It is more likely a lack of power when it happens. Some line of the PSU (3.3V or 5V or 12V or their negative) either isn't accurate or doesn't provide enough mA for all devices. I would replace the PSU.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
It is more likely a lack of power when it happens. Some line of the PSU (3.3V or 5V or 12V or their negative) either isn't accurate or doesn't provide enough mA for all devices. I would replace the PSU.
Any way to test this? PSU is pretty new and this shouldn't happen at all specially because everything that's plugged in in my case is a mouse and keyboard.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100
There are devices called PSU testers. You connect the 24-pin cable, the 4-pin power, one SATA power, one molex (IDE power, optional), one floppy power (optional) and one 6-pin PCIe power cable on the tester. Then you connect the mains power cord and switch on the PSU. The tester should switch on and indicate the voltage values where you can see if any value is too far from the nominal (such as 3V instead of 3.3V, 12.3V instead of 12V etc). Some testers may also display mA or A values where you can see if they are lower than the advertised values in the PSU specs.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3235)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
There are devices called PSU testers. You connect the 24-pin cable, the 4-pin power, one SATA power, one molex (IDE power, optional), one floppy power (optional) and one 6-pin PCIe power cable on the tester. Then you connect the mains power cord and switch on the PSU. The tester should switch on and indicate the voltage values where you can see if any value is too far from the nominal (such as 3V instead of 3.3V, 12.3V instead of 12V etc). Some testers may also display mA or A values where you can see if they are lower than the advertised values in the PSU specs.
Good to know, if I don't get this fixed, I'll probably try that and see whether the psu is faulty. Right now I can't get the boot to fail so can't really test any other fixes. It's so weird that the issue doesn't always occur even after disconnecting from the power outlet :/
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100
It is very unlikely to be the PSU. Try other suggestions first.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3296
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Just tried it with ubuntu:
First boot of the day, got infinite boot (keyboard rgb off). Force shutdown, booted into Ubuntu through a bootable USB, no issues at all, very fast boot. Second boot is almost always also a failed boot (3rd boot attempt gets me into windows just fine).
Will probably try updating BIOS, though I'm pretty confident it won't really fix much.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100
Updated the BIOS. Will report back probably tomorrow, when I do a "fresh" boot that should be problematic if the issue isn't fixed
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    B550M Aorus Elite
    Memory
    32gb 3600mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 3070 INNO3D
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus TUF 144hz, Acer 75hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Kingston A400 480gb SSD , Seagate 2TB HDD, WD 1TB HDD
    PSU
    EVGA 750gt GOLD Modular
    Case
    NOX HUMMER Zero
    Cooling
    Stock
    Keyboard
    Krom Kernel
    Mouse
    Rival 100

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