Labelling USB sticks


really strong
Even if the exterior is made from unobtanium, there is no easy way to tell how shock-proof are the soldering points that are hiding inside. Putting a sticky label on a USB stick may impair heat dispersion worsening the failure rate that may have been severely overstated by the seller/manufacturer already to begin with. Still not sure what exactly you are hoping to achieve, as it no longer makes sense to keep more than just a few decent quality USB sticks around these days. Not unless maybe you are in front of a classroom or group of people where each member needs to individually borrow one from you or something.
 

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Some thumb drives can go bad just sitting around in a drawer for years!
I've had a couple Lexar's go mysteriously dead on me over time!
Never had any problems with Kingston or SanDisk.
 

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Even if the exterior is made from unobtanium, there is no easy way to tell how shock-proof are the soldering points that are hiding inside. Putting a sticky label on a USB stick may impair heat dispersion worsening the failure rate that may have been severely overstated by the seller/manufacturer already to begin with. Still not sure what exactly you are hoping to achieve, as it no longer makes sense to keep more than just a few decent quality USB sticks around these days. Not unless maybe you are in front of a classroom or group of people where each member needs to individually borrow one from you or something.

As to shock-proof, there is the more general question of how to judge the quality of USB sticks, in particular how reliable they are as long-term storage devices.

I believe a label impairs heat dispersion just a little, less impairment than a plastic body does. And yes, I prefer metal housings.

One important use example for labelling is to distinguish BitLocker Key and Recovery Key. MS recommends not putting the 2 on the same USB stick. Moreover, you need several copies (and manage them securely and meticulously)
 

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Some thumb drives can go bad just sitting around in a drawer for years!
I've had a couple Lexar's go mysteriously dead on me over time!
Never had any problems with Kingston or SanDisk.
In the early days of USB sticks and how to distinguish them, I bought USB sticks in odd form factors. I forgot that my Spiderman USB stick was in my shirt pocket > survived the laundry cycle > worked well for another month or so > died suddenly, LOL

FWIW, to deal with the quality and reliability issues of USB sticks, I destroy them ruthlessly as soon as they show any signs (after wiping) destroy the connector and saw the body in half.
 

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I'd be more concerned about relying on so many USB sticks storing so much data. Given unreliability/instability of USB sticks, it's a recipe for disaster
 

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I'd be more concerned about relying on so many USB sticks storing so much data. Given unreliability/instability of USB sticks, it's a recipe for disaster
It's not so bad, IMHO. USB sticks are perfectly OK for data transfer in sneakernet. For long term data storage, just have 2 or more copies that you read every year or two. I have some archives (that I do not want to expose to frequent use) that way, wish me luck, LOL
 

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As to shock-proof, there is the more general question of how to judge the quality of USB sticks, in particular how reliable they are as long-term storage devices.

I believe a label impairs heat dispersion just a little, less impairment than a plastic body does. And yes, I prefer metal housings.

One important use example for labelling is to distinguish BitLocker Key and Recovery Key. MS recommends not putting the 2 on the same USB stick. Moreover, you need several copies (and manage them securely and meticulously)
To be able to judge the quality, first you'd have to know the numbers. A few years ago I remember searching the internet for user reviews about 256GB/512GB USB sticks that neither break the bank nor have such a slow write speed that (almost) completely filling them with data would take many hours. I soon found out that available choices were not only very limited, but also most of them had reportedly been overheating causing them to often break within only one year after they were purchased. Back at the time when I grabbed my (discontinued several years ago AFAIK) two 256GB USB sticks, there also was a (long discontinued also AFAIK) SanDisk Extreme 256GB that was ~20% faster than mine, but it was ~60% more expensive. It later turned out that complaints about that particular model from SanDisk overheating and dying prematurely (also often within less than one year) were raining pretty much all over.

As for metal bodies, the Shenzhen region in China makes them like 1,000 timess faster than people can buy them. They have a strong habit of putting sub par electronics components in those, as the vast majority of these companies are specialized in perceived quality with 3D renderings that take five seconds (OK.. I exaggerate, I admit.. it actually takes them four and a half seconds) to slap together and upload on AliExpress/Alibaba.

I don't use BitLocker, and, now that TPM 2.0 has been proven severely flawed in addition to the fact that a major vulnerability was found in BitLocker not too long ago, I have stopped recommending BitLocker. Neither Secure Boot nor Windows Measured Boot are still credible solutions at this point. I already warned against encryption in other threads a few times in the past. I have gotten used to most people disregarding my advice, rather persistently. There's pros and there's cons to everything. Including clearvoyance........ 😂
 

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I have some archives (that I do not want to expose to frequent use) that way
The chances are that you will be OK.
USB memory stick failure is most commonly a failure to write or re-format. Faulty USB memory sticks might remain readable for decades afterwards.

Denis
 

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Like many others, I have a box of USB sticks.

I have labelled some of the USB sticks with little paper stickers that I write on and (somewhat) protect the paper stickers with transparent sticky tape to make the writing (somewhat) more durable.

Some USB sticks have a ring at the tail end and I insert a colored paper clip through the ring. I wish the ring has a perpendicular orientation, so that the inserted paper clip is parallel to the body of the USB stick. This method is very durable, but this is of course not a true label, and I may forget over time about the combination of the color/shape of the paper clip and the shape/look of the USB stick.

Anyway, I am looking for better ways to label USB sticks, especially if the body of the USB stick is small :-)
A Dymo type printer does it for me.
 

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Aha, are there any dymo with small enough fonts for a descriptive label on a small USB stick body? Anyone has tried? I guess I would still need to protect the dymo label with sticky transparent tape against the handling of the USB stick.

I should say that sticky transparent tape does help, but it is only semi-permanent. I did think about a coating gadget, but now I would need 2 gadgets, labelling and coating.

FWIW, I also did think about an engraving gadget, which is very durable, but the contrast/legibility appears to be lacking.
Dymo tapes are quite robust and don't need any protection. The font is a bit large but in most cases a readable label is possible.
 

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@hdmi I don't like to be on the bleeding edge, at least not for serious issues.

Nonetheless, I still try to take advantage of whatever the market makes available, like metal housing being better for heat dispersion than plastic.

Same for security, there is nothing perfect, the hiccups with BitLocker and TPM are not sufficient reasons to abandon them, IMHO. It's like the door to the bank vault needs maintenance :-) but don't take off the door :eek1:
 

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I agree with cereberus.
There have been many reports of supposedly large capacity USB memory sticks being sold very cheaply. They appear to be fine; they report their large capacity to Windows.
But when their true capacity [often 32/64GB] gets used up, they fail completely and none of their contents can be recovered.
We went through the same thing when 64GB USB sticks became widely available; 4GB sticks had their firmware jobbed to report 64GB & they were sold as 64GB ones. They were fine until the real 4GB limit was exceeded.

Denis
 

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Dymo tapes are quite robust and don't need any protection. The font is a bit large but in most cases a readable label is possible.

Post #38 shows a label by a label maker with a font size small enough for 2 lines on the label. I would use the first line for the name of the USB stick as shown in File Explorer and the second line for a hint at the content of the USB stick. Of course, an even smaller font would be better.

The label gets handled every time the USB stick gets handled. It's not like a label on hanging file folder, for example, and even those are often protected.

An alternative to label protection is label replacement. OK with me if it is easily done.
 

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Depending on how many you are trying to organise, but generally .I have always used a numerical ID system and a database to record contents, when I say database It can range from a piece of paper up to a full fledged DBMS Via notebooks and Spreadsheets

Colour can also be useful to segregate general usage - Music, images, to do, for filing, etc etc

EDIT

in a related issue I also mark cables using ty-wraps that include a tab at the lock end that allows me to write a connection ID - the trick is to write the connection ID of where the cable originates not where it is normally fitted - great time saver when you need to replace a USB or other multi-connector Hub
 

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@barman58 On labelling cables, I use sticky mailing labels a little larger than credit card size, that I wrap around the cable. There is sufficient space (on both sides) to write more than just PRINTER. I usually label both ends of the cable, and on some cables somewhere in the middle. I think I should do more of the latter, more cables and more on the cables.
 

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I use Avery 5418 removable labels 3/4x1.2. Amazon.com
 

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@barman58 On labelling cables, I use sticky mailing labels a little larger than credit card size, that I wrap around the cable. There is sufficient space (on both sides) to write more than just PRINTER. I usually label both ends of the cable, and on some cables somewhere in the middle. I think I should do more of the latter, more cables and more on the cables.
I label both ends of the cable using the specialised Zip Ties, and mark the opposite end of the cable - doing it this way is great if you are trying to fault find if I go to an intermediate hub I can quickly find the cable I am looking to test,

The system was developed when I used to work a lot in industrial systems you would open a connection panel and see several hundred cable ends - knowing what any cable connected to saves a lot of identification work

Of course in the electrical panels you would have every cable marked with a wire/cable reference - adding an "english" description save time checking through the design specs and or wiring diagrams :wink:
 

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