Need help getting rid of an info stealer / session stealer


Ruiwenation

New member
Local time
12:58 AM
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1
OS
Windows 11
Hello! So recently, I downloaded a sketchy software thinking it was fine, as after a week or two nothing had happened. Fast forward more than half a month later, I get an email letting me know that one of my accounts was hacked. I've since got it back, but I've been really anxious these past few days wanting to get rid of the info stealer, and would like to get some advice on what else I can do on my pc to get rid of any remnant of the info stealer. So far I've done these things:
  • Change all my passwords and enable 2FA where I can (Passwords which I just made up and placed safely so I remember them, so they cannot be past ones. Also have enabled passkeys)
  • I've cleared all browser cache (Since I the malware was targeted towards a specific game, and hence only got info from the browser)
  • Downloaded Malwarebytes and conducted multiple scans, and windows defender offline scan
  • Looked in task scheduler and autorun to find suspicious generic name tasks. I deleted them in the appdata folders
Additionally: After the scans, there were lots of viruses found, and deleted. However, even after the scan saying all clean, there was still a trojan loader that was trying to load something which malwarebytes stopped every day, so the antivirus missed some deep malware. They were in the appdata Microsoft folder with names like "Vault, Defender" and had dll files. However, after looking at the files and deleting more scheduled tasks like "update" and "update browser", I still cannot rest easy knowing it might still be on my computer.

My thoughts so far is that since I downloaded the software for a specific game, it would have stolen the data off my browser. Could it also have stolen other things on my pc? I don't think its ransomware.

I know I can reset my pc, however, I have so many things on my pc that I think I cant back it up, lots of offline things and photos. I do not have an external drive, or online storage.

I would really appreciate some help on how to do the most to get rid of the info stealer without resetting my pc, any good scanners that can help me find the root of the malware? I just want to be very sure. Any help is greatly appreciated. I can send any logs or screenshots needed.
 
Windows Build/Version
Windows 11

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 11
OS
Windows 11
Computer type
PC/Desktop
From Google
When a Trojan keeps regenerating in the AppData folder (under names mimicking legitimate tools like "Vault Defender" or "Edge Defender"), it means a persistence mechanism is actively running in memory or a hidden script is re-downloading it every time it's deleted.
Because Malwarebytes can't easily stop this loop while the threat is actively running, you need a precise combo to break the cycle remotely.

Step 1: Kill the Active Malicious Processes (Rkill)
Before running another scan, you must terminate the hidden background processes keeping the Trojan alive.
1. Download Rkill via BleepingComputer. (This is a free tool designed to kill known malware processes without deleting any files).
2. Run rkill.exe.
3. Crucial: Do not reboot the computer after running Rkill, or the Trojan will just start up again. Leave the PC exactly as it is.
Step 2: Remove the Startup Triggers (Autoruns)
Trojans in AppData usually trigger via hidden Registry entries, scheduled tasks, or startup links.
1. Download Autoruns for Windows from Microsoft Sysinternals.
2. Extract the ZIP file, right-click Autoruns64.exe, and select Run as Administrator.
3. In the search/filter bar at the top, type Vault (or whatever specific name was found in AppData).
4. Look through the results under the Everything or Logon tabs. If you see an entry matching that file path in AppData, uncheck the box next to it to disable it, then right-click and select Delete
Step 3: Run an Aggressive Second-Opinion Scan
Since Malwarebytes is hitting a wall with this specific payload, switch to a specialized aggressive engine.
Download the Norton Power Eraser (NPE) or the Kaspersky Virus Removal Tool (KVRT). Both are completely free, portable, and specialize in deeply embedded Trojans.

Step 4: Run a Microsoft Defender Offline Scan

If the Trojan is still stubborn, hand the task over to Windows before it even boots up.
1. Go to Settings > Update & Security > Windows Security > Virus & threat protection.
2. Click on Scan options.
3. Select Microsoft Defender Offline scan and click Scan now.
4. The PC will restart into a secure, pre-boot state and clean out the AppData folder before the Trojan has a chance to execute code.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 11AMD Ryzen 8700G64 GBOnboard
OS
Windows 11
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Manufacturer/Model
Generic
CPU
AMD Ryzen 8700G
Motherboard
Gigabyte B650 UD AC
Memory
64 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Onboard
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Del U2723QE
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Corsiar MP600 1TB
PSU
Silverstone 750 GOLD
Case
Silverstone FARA 513
If you truly desire to declare full scale war on this malware DRASTIC MEASURES are another option:

1) Flash your BIOS.

Flashing the BIOS can void you of any potential root kit that could exist at the pre-boot level. A great opportunity to get the latest BIOS.

2) Reinstall your Operating System.

A fresh Operating System on a brand new hard drive is for all intents and purposes free and clear of viruses and malware. Exceptions would be if one regarded parts of the operating system equal to malware. Things like Co Pilot, One Drive, Bit Locker etc. There are ways of eliminating these as well.

3) A brand new C drive. (See: #2)

4) NEVER use your email password for other applications. << I cannot stress this enough.

5) Change your email address. Stop using the old one.

This may take time so opting for a transition by keeping an older PC as you eliminate apps and programs over time is an option worth considering. I do NOT advise making any financial transactions or using data sensitive apps on this older PC. The ultimate goal will be to purge it of all your old data.

6) Change the password on your router. If you do not know how to do this read the manual that came with your router. If your ISP provided your router they should be able to help you to do this. This is what their technical support is for.

7) Refrain from using new log ins on hardware that you suspect may be infected or compromised. If you use your PC for financial transactions make certain that your financial institutions are aware of your NEW email address.

The above tips are only suggestions on how to play 'hard ball' with a compromised system. Some may disagree BUT I have helped dozens of people get back their security this way and the test of time has proved them to be effective measures. I hope this helps.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, ...Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
OS
WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Manufacturer/Model
DIY, ASUS, and DELL
CPU
Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
Motherboard
ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
Memory
128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
Sound Card
Crystal Sound (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
Screen Resolution
4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
Hard Drives
A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

RAID arrays included:

LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
PSU
SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
Case
ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
Cooling
Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
Keyboard
all kinds.
Mouse
all kinds
Internet Speed
360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
Browser
FIREFOX
Antivirus
KASPERSKY (no apologies)
Other Info
Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
I know I can reset my pc, however, I have so many things on my pc that I think I cant back it up, lots of offline things and photos. I do not have an external drive, or online storage.
IF you want to be safe resetting your PC really isn't an option. This is your ultimate goal. There are USB sticks with huge capacities for storage these days that will allow you to drag and drop all your pictures and personal files to. If you need more space then an external drive is a wiser choice. You can't pour poison in your bathwater and say, "I want all the poison out and my bathwater to be just the way it was before it got poisoned." NOPE. You have to drain the swamp. If you have prized fish in that bath you have to fish them out and quarantine them. Even resetting your PC is no guarantee that it will be safe but it's a good start.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, ...Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
OS
WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Manufacturer/Model
DIY, ASUS, and DELL
CPU
Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
Motherboard
ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
Memory
128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
Sound Card
Crystal Sound (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
Screen Resolution
4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
Hard Drives
A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

RAID arrays included:

LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
PSU
SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
Case
ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
Cooling
Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
Keyboard
all kinds.
Mouse
all kinds
Internet Speed
360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
Browser
FIREFOX
Antivirus
KASPERSKY (no apologies)
Other Info
Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
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