I have no idea. All that I use that requires Secure Boot off is the bootable ISO of Acronis True Image 2021, that I use with Ventoy on a USB flash drive to make an image of my Windows partition once or maybe twice per year (these days actually even less often than that). Before I boot back in Windows, I always make sure to turn Secure Boot back on (just as a simple precaution).Hmm... Maybe it is another feature I'm thinking of. I do remember a few people mentioning they weren't getting auto updates in Win10 after secure boot was turned off. And I thought i read the same recently about Win11 device encryption on the Microsoft website - regardless of secure boot status I was assuming. There are definitely third party programs such as Adobe CSS which are mentioned as requiring secure boot turned on to work. Can't find anything official about that from adobe though. Some EA games require require secure boot on.. Apparently Valorent, is even stranger. The consensus is that it requires secure boot off. Maybe that's all anti piracy and anti cheating design logic?
No idea about any of that either. I just know that it's always been bad so, I keep the encryption turned off. I am too lazy to figure out exactly how bad it is. But it's bad. lmaoNot what's being reported. Think that's why people are turning it off and on so many times causing SSD damage. People might want it back on without the prompt appearing, so they try to undo the changes that cause it.
It would probably be the order of
Turn off device encryption
Make changes that could otherwise trigger anti tamper
Turn device encryption back on with the assumption that it will now accept the changes as legit
Recovery prompt appears every boot now.
And to fix it so you might try
Turn off device encryption again - so you don't need your recovery key to boot every f*#!#*g time
Undo changes which cause the recovery prompt to appear, or try something else with the assumption when you turn encryption back on, you won't get recovery prompt,
Turn device encryption back on
Recovery prompt appears
Rinse and repeat.
I know. I was simply trying to say that I don't need the encryption, and that this is part why I have been sticking to the Home edition ever since Windows 8 officially came out, as I don't need any of the features that aren't available in the Home edition. The same thing goes for most of the "modern" and "modernized/improved" features that are available in the Home edition BTW. In a lot of cases they're just not worth all the hassle to me, personally, and a lot of them still wouldn't interest me in any way at all, even if they did keep working reliably and pretty close to effortlessly the whole time. It is what it is.Not sure that's relevant to what you are quoting. I was simply saying in that quote that reinstalling Windows will easily fix any corruption of the file system that an unbootable Windows is installed on. But you might trash your OEM preboot drivers by doing so, and they can be useful. Image your drive from within Windows before it can go bang. That means the partition Windows is installed on, the WinRE, OEM and EFI partitions as well.
It originally came with 2×4GB SK Hynix DDR4-3200 C22 single rank and a 512GB Phison M.2 SATA SSD, that I later upgraded to 2×8GB G.Skill RipJaws (of the same specs as the SK Hynix) and a 2TB Samsung 980 PRO NVMe SSD. I paid only 599 Euros for this laptop before upgrades so, it was a bit of a steal seeing as all the other i5-1135G7 laptops that I could find back then were priced higher than 800 Euros. Worse, almost all of them had only one (empty) RAM slot and 8GB RAM soldered to the motherboard, and, they all had only three USB ports whereas mine has four. Some others had a screen with slightly better picture quality than mine (I presume) and/or had a tad more battery, but at the sacrifice of being way overpriced also in addition to various other details like a keyboard that is sub par for typing (unlike mine) and/or isn't a backlit keyboard (also unlike mine), slower battery charging, etc.. For 599 Euros back then, the best alternative choice that I could find around where I live was a much slower performing new & unused Intel 10th gen laptop.I don't know anybody who has a Medion. don't get many for tech support either. And I'm not surprised really. I had a Medion desktop with XP years ago. Memory was toast after a year. Installed Linux on a Medion USB HDD though. That drive still works for backups to this day.
I have been using this laptop mainly as a low-powered desktop replacement, usually silent, but still powerful enough for average-type workloads that neither require that much extra CPU nor require a dedicated GPU. I haven't regretted the purchase. It's my 4th Medion Akoya laptop. The other 3 have long been retired, as I almost never keep using the same laptop for much longer than 3 years. I also still own multiple (old) external HDDs from the brand, and, my dad is on his 2nd Medion desktop PC; his previous one still worked when it was finally retired after way more than 8 years and never had a single problem with it.
I only ever bought from the brand at the local Aldi grocery store, and that's only if I could smell it from a fair distance the probable fact that value for money was going to be really very tough to beat and the specs were right, and closely matched what I needed/wanted. Over the past 15 years, this strategy has worked well for me even though I have been looking for better deals elsewhere also on a rather frequent basis.
Yeah, I don't think a clean install with the official Installation ISO from Microsoft will bring up a confirmation screen like this.I have reinstalled Win11 on some Medion laptops I think, but I don't remember that OOBE setting. Maybe if you reinstall from a Windows USB it removes any OEM customizations, including the OOBE? The SSD was toast though, so no OEM partitions.
I may have just remembered it wrong TBH. Either way, the padlock is long gone, and, as long as I can remember to make sure that this thing stays off, hopefully everything will be fine. lolMy most recent laptop is a ASUS G18. The padlock shows locked.
Honestly, what is the point of turning it on at install, even showing it in security settings as turned on just for it to actually be off anyway? Apart from the honest padlock, it's straight up lying to you. I mean what if you actually want it on? You would think it's on when it's actually off. And what else do you have to do if the padlock does show unlocked to actually turn it on?
My Computers
System One System Two
-
- OS
- 11 Home
- Computer type
- Laptop
- Manufacturer/Model
- Asus TUF Gaming F16 (2024)
- CPU
- i7 13650HX
- Memory
- 16GB DDR5
- Graphics Card(s)
- GeForce RTX 4060 Mobile
- Sound Card
- Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
- Monitor(s) Displays
- Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
- Screen Resolution
- 3840×2160
- Hard Drives
- 512GB SSD internal
37TB external
- PSU
- Li-ion
- Cooling
- 2× Arc Flow Fans, 4× exhaust vents, 5× heatpipes
- Keyboard
- Logitech K800
- Mouse
- Logitech G402
- Internet Speed
- 20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
- Browser
- FF
-
- Operating System
- 11 Home
- Computer type
- Laptop
- Manufacturer/Model
- Medion S15450
- CPU
- i5 1135G7
- Memory
- 16GB DDR4
- Graphics card(s)
- Intel Iris Xe
- Sound Card
- Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
- Monitor(s) Displays
- Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
- Screen Resolution
- 3840×2160
- Hard Drives
- 2TB SSD internal
37TB external
- PSU
- Li-ion
- Mouse
- Logitech G402
- Keyboard
- Logitech K800
- Internet Speed
- 20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
- Browser
- FF