ASUS ROG Crosshair X870E HERO-Compatible DDR5 DIMM???

Ghot · Feb 17, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
I can't get the CMOS Battery out. There's some kind of a rubber "T" thing in the way. Online it says to "push down on the latch and the Battery will pop out." That doesn't work. It looks to me lie I should be pushing the catch or whatever it is away from the side of the Battery, but that doesn't work either. I don't want to break the damn thing...

Get a small screwdriver, and use it to push the release clip away from the battery.
Look closely at the battery with an LED flashlight. You should be able to figure it out.

I attached your manual. In the appendix is the Q code Table. That might help.

bobkn · Feb 17, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
Yes, it does - but as I mentioned earlier ASUS does not. Thanks for pointing this out.

Thanks for the suggestion, but no luck.

CPU socket looks fine. Also, there's a Q-LED labelled "CPU" and it is not illuminated; so hopefully the MoBo has accepted the CPU as functional.

There are 4 Q-LEDs. They should light in sequence during POST: red for the CPU, yellow for the DRAM, white for the GPU, and green for the OS boot.

I don't think you'd get to the yellow LED if the CPU test failed.

By the way, it's unnecessary to remove the coin cell to clear the CMOS.

I'm still mystified as to what your issue could be, assuming that none of your hardware is defective. I'd expect the RAM to be set to a lower data rate at first boot, until you can get into the BIOS settings to enable EXPO. (I'm not certain if that applies to your MB and RAM, but it has been my experience.)

G.Skill may be my favorite RAM vendor.

KevTech · Feb 17, 2026

How long did you leave the system on before thinking it was not working?

AM5 boards will train the memory even if expo is off and for sure on first power on.

Once trained then boot times after that are faster.

I have a X670 and the first time I powered it on it was about two minutes before video was seen on the monitor.
Now it takes just seconds.

paulco · Feb 17, 2026

How long is it halting at the dram led, could it be at the memory training stage.
My first boot on the new build sat there for several minutes before continuing.

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
I can't get the CMOS Battery out. There's some kind of a rubber "T" thing in the way. Online it says to "push down on the latch and the Battery will pop out." That doesn't work. It looks to me lie I should be pushing the catch or whatever it is away from the side of the Battery, but that doesn't work either. I don't want to break the damn thing...

Well, I *finally* got the CMOS Battery out. I decided that I would just pull on that rubber "T" until it came out, or snapped off. It stretched to at least 5 times its original length and finally popped out. Now I could easily move the lock aside, but it still wouldn't come until I fussed and fussed with it adding more and more pressure. Well it came out, and nothing broke - but why the hell someone decided it need to be restrained to that degree is beyond me.

I'm really beginning to despise this MB. Although its still in the manual they even removed the Header for the Front Panel and filled it in with solder.???!!!

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

KevTech said:
How long did you leave the system on before thinking it was not working?

At least 10 minutes, probably 12-15 minutes. I didn't time it.

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

paulco said:
How long is it halting at the dram led, could it be at the memory training stage.
My first boot on the new build sat there for several minutes before continuing.

10-15 minutes.

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

Ghot said:
I would do it with the battery instead.

1. Turn off the computer.
2. Turn off the switch on the power supply.
3. Hold down the case's power button for about 10 seconds.
4. Pull the CMOS battery, and wait 5 minutes.
5. Put one stick of RAM in slot number TWO, counting away from the CPU. Or put both sticks one in slot 2 and one in slot 4.
5b. Make sure the RAM is completely seated and that the clips are locked in place.
6. Put the battery back in and turn ON the power supply switch.
7. Turn the computer on and start gently spamming the DEL key.

If you still can't get into the BIOS you have some other problem.

All of the above was done. Same results. Yellow DRAM light on, QCode is C5. Monitor displays "No Signal", keyboard doesn't illuminate.

PerpetualCycle · Feb 17, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
All of the above was done. Same results. Yellow DRAM light on, QCode is C5. Monitor displays "No Signal", keyboard doesn't illuminate.

damn. I'm out of ideas right now.

KevTech · Feb 17, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
QCode is C5.

C5 is a memory error.

You said you have the right slots but here is a diagram.

Also, take a flashlight and look at the bottom of the sticks gold section at the bottom to make sure the sticks are down to the same position.
That you can only see the same amount of the gold part all the way across the stick on both sides.
If not level they are not all the way down.

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

PerpetualCycle said:
There should be a button in the back that flashes the BIOS you put in that USB slot. It doesn't require a CPU, probably not memory either. It is called BIOS flashback. Should be in your manual.

I followed every step in the Manual, and BIOS updating process completed. Pressed Start Button same results I've gotten all day. Q-Codes 46, 15, C5; yellow DRAM light on; Monitor display-"No Signal"; Keyboard does not illuminate.

So. MB? DIMMs? CPU?

Ed McCauley · Feb 17, 2026

KevTech said:
C5 is a memory error.

I believe you, but just so you know, the MB Manual doesn't list this Code, or "46".

KevTech said:
You said you have the right slots but here is a diagram.

View attachment 163625

Yes. That's what I have. To reiterate; I started with A2 and B2 occupied per the Manual. I then removed B2 and tried again. Then I replaced the DIMM that was in A2 with the DIMM that was in B2. After Flashing the BIOS with only A2 occupied (per the Manual) and failing, I swapped Modules with the same result. So neither Module is working when installed in only the A2 slot.

KevTech said:
Also, take a flashlight and look at the bottom of the sticks gold section at the bottom to make sure the sticks are down to the same position.
That you can only see the same amount of the gold part all the way across the stick on both sides.
If not level they are not all the way down.

The gold pins are inserted to an equal depth across the entire Module, and both latches are fully up and locked.

PerpetualCycle · Feb 18, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
I followed every step in the Manual, and BIOS updating process completed. Pressed Start Button same results I've gotten all day. Q-Codes 46, 15, C5; yellow DRAM light on; Monitor display-"No Signal"; Keyboard does not illuminate.

So. MB? DIMMs? CPU?

There's the rub. I think if it were the CPU it would be a CPU pin issue. two bad memory sticks? Seems unlikely. Also, try a ram stick in other slots besides A2.

Ed McCauley · Feb 18, 2026

PerpetualCycle said:
There's the rub. I think if it were the CPU it would be a CPU pin issue. two bad memory sticks? Seems unlikely. Also, try a ram stick in other slots besides A2.

When running a single stick, the Manual states that it should be installed in slot A2. When either stick is installed in A2 and the PSU is switched ON, the DRAM light does *not* illuminate, which confirms the Stick is properly seated and in the correct slot. When either of the Sticks are in Slots A1, B1 or B2, the DRAM light illuminates when the PSU is switched ON, as it should to indicate the "Configuration Error," as the Manual calls it.

With either stick in the correct A2 slot, the DRAM light does *not* illuminate when the PSU is initially switched on - only when the START button is pressed. FWiW, it appears to me that they are not failing until the POST test. The Manual acknowledges that the Error Code is only a "starting point" for troubleshooting, so apparently a MB issue for example, would give the same Code as a DIMM problem. It makes no such comment regarding the DRAM light specifically, so perhaps it's more accurate than the Error Code? Also, the light does detect the wrong slot error, so it appears to be functioning.

My initial thought regarding the DIMM sticks was that *2* bad sticks seems unlikely. But they came as a packaged pair, meaning they were tested at the same time. Does this make it more likely they could both be bad?

With my limited knowledge and experience, the most likely culprits are the Memory Sticks, or the MB. I don't have a functioning test-bed Computer to try the Sticks, so I've run out of ideas. I suppose the next step is to contact G.SKILL and ASUS and report the results. I'm guessing they will want me to return the components for testing - maybe they'll replace them. Does anyone have any experience with this?

bobkn · Feb 18, 2026

If you're still within the return window offered by the seller of the MB and RAM, that'd be easier than dealing with Asus or G.Skill. Especially since you'd just want to do an exchange.

If you're the paranoid type, and have the ability to take a high-resolution picture of the LGA socket, I suggest doing that. A few years ago, I returned a Z690 MB to a reputable dealer. The return was refused because the socket was damaged. I was fairly sure that I didn't do it.

PerpetualCycle · Feb 18, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
When running a single stick, the Manual states that it should be installed in slot A2. When either stick is installed in A2 and the PSU is switched ON, the DRAM light does *not* illuminate, which confirms the Stick is properly seated and in the correct slot. When either of the Sticks are in Slots A1, B1 or B2, the DRAM light illuminates when the PSU is switched ON, as it should to indicate the "Configuration Error," as the Manual calls it.

With either stick in the correct A2 slot, the DRAM light does *not* illuminate when the PSU is initially switched on - only when the START button is pressed. FWiW, it appears to me that they are not failing until the POST test. The Manual acknowledges that the Error Code is only a "starting point" for troubleshooting, so apparently a MB issue for example, would give the same Code as a DIMM problem. It makes no such comment regarding the DRAM light specifically, so perhaps it's more accurate than the Error Code? Also, the light does detect the wrong slot error, so it appears to be functioning.

My initial thought regarding the DIMM sticks was that *2* bad sticks seems unlikely. But they came as a packaged pair, meaning they were tested at the same time. Does this make it more likely they could both be bad?

With my limited knowledge and experience, the most likely culprits are the Memory Sticks, or the MB. I don't have a functioning test-bed Computer to try the Sticks, so I've run out of ideas. I suppose the next step is to contact G.SKILL and ASUS and report the results. I'm guessing they will want me to return the components for testing - maybe they'll replace them. Does anyone have any experience with this?

g.skill will be more helpful than Asus. Assus support can be really bad - I would not send my motherboard in if I can avoid it. Can you return it to the store where you bought it for an exchange?

Ed McCauley · Feb 18, 2026

bobkn said:
If you're still within the return window offered by the seller of the MB and RAM, that'd be easier than dealing with Asus or G.Skill. Especially since you'd just want to do an exchange.

That ship has sailed. I had problems getting the Graphics Card I wanted. By the time I got it, all the other components were past the 30 day Return limit. But I am gonna try - fer sure!

bobkn said:
If you're the paranoid type, and have the ability to take a high-resolution picture of the LGA socket, I suggest doing that. A few years ago, I returned a Z690 MB to a reputable dealer. The return was refused because the socket was damaged. I was fairly sure that I didn't do it.

Thanks - that's good advice.

Ed McCauley · Feb 18, 2026

PerpetualCycle said:
g.skill will be more helpful than Asus. Assus support can be really bad - I would not send my motherboard in if I can avoid it. Can you return it to the store where you bought it for an exchange?

I got it from Amazon. Despite their bad reviews, I've always had good luck with them, *if* I hold their feet to the fire. It appears I'm gonna find out if my luck holds...

Ed McCauley · Feb 18, 2026

I had a bit of unexpected luck. My new neighbor across the street has a newly-built PC with a compatible MB. He generously allowed me to install my Memory Modules in his System. My DIMMs worked perfectly, and even passed a 4 hour memory test. Also, he loaned me his DIMMs. My System reacted the same way with his functional DIMMs installed as it did with mine installed. Now that I know my DIMMs are okay, the problem is either the MB, or the CPU. My neighbor has an Intel board which will not allow me to test my CPU or my MB.

To me, it seems the MB is the more likely culprit, so tomorrow I'll call ASUS Tech Support and solicit their opinion. If anyone has any thoughts as to how I might test the CPU or the MB without replacing them, I would really appreciate any ideas!

PerpetualCycle · Feb 18, 2026

Ed McCauley said:
I had a bit of unexpected luck. My new neighbor across the street has a newly-built PC with a compatible MB. He generously allowed me to install my Memory Modules in his System. My DIMMs worked perfectly, and even passed a 4 hour memory test. Also, he loaned me his DIMMs. My System reacted the same way with his functional DIMMs installed as it did with mine installed. Now that I know my DIMMs are okay, the problem is either the MB, or the CPU. My neighbor has an Intel board which will not allow me to test my CPU or my MB.

To me, it seems the MB is the more likely culprit, so tomorrow I'll call ASUS Tech Support and solicit their opinion. If anyone has any thoughts as to how I might test the CPU or the MB without replacing them, I would really appreciate any ideas!

Best luck with Asus.

ASUS ROG Crosshair X870E HERO-Compatible DDR5 DIMM???

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