How to tell if my PC's power supply is bad?


Birk

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Win11
I've been experiencing system hangups for the past week, and they are getting more frequent. Since I haven't been able to identify what's causing them I did an in-place update of Win11, but that has not helped. So I'm wondering if it could be a problem with my PC's power supply. Is there a way to tell if the power supply is OK or not?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom build
    CPU
    Intel i5-12600K 3700 MHz
    Motherboard
    Asus B660-M
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    none
    Sound Card
    none
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Primary: LG 4K; Secondary: Dell U2412M
    Screen Resolution
    Primary: 3860 x 2160; Secondary: 1200 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    C: Samsung NVme SSD970 256K
    E: 1 TB HDD
    F: 500K HDD
    W: Samsung SSD 840 128K
    Keyboard
    Logitech Lighted
    Mouse
    Kensington ExpertMouse trackball
    Internet Speed
    500/500
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self built
    CPU
    Intel i8400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z370-P
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT710
    Sound Card
    ASUS Xonar D2X
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell SE2417HGXF Full HD Gaming Monitor, 24"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung V-NAND SSD 860EVO
    Other spinning HDDs
    PSU
    Xilence XP420
    Cooling
    PSU fan and stock CPU fan
    Mouse
    Microsoft
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avira free
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 on VMware (Release, Beta and Dev)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
Working with a power supply is more difficult with the ATX-style motherboards versus the older AT-style. The AT had the power switch connected directly to the power supply while the ATX has the switch connected to the motherboard itself and the board connected to the power supply. The ATX switch only tells the board to get things started. Even when Off the ATX board still has power to it unless pulling the power cord from the back of it and if a Notebook/Laptop also removing the battery. There are testers available, older ones for the PATA/IDE drive connections and newer for the SATA connections. One software test I use is a bootable Linux LiveDVD or LiveUSB to run outside of the install Windows to determine if its a software or hardware issue. The Linux DVD is fully functional and could be used for long periods to see if the issue comes up, helps narrow things down.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win11 Pro RTM
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 3400
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 11th Gen. 2.40GHz
    Memory
    12GB
    Hard Drives
    256GB SSD NVMe M.2 and 2TB SATA HDD
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro RTM x64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Vostro 5890
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 10th Gen. 2.90GHz
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Onboard, no VGA, using a DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Dell
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD NVMe, 2TB WDC HDD
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender/Microsoft Security
Good info - thanks. I had completely forgotten about SpeedFan.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom build
    CPU
    Intel i5-12600K 3700 MHz
    Motherboard
    Asus B660-M
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    none
    Sound Card
    none
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Primary: LG 4K; Secondary: Dell U2412M
    Screen Resolution
    Primary: 3860 x 2160; Secondary: 1200 x 1920
    Hard Drives
    C: Samsung NVme SSD970 256K
    E: 1 TB HDD
    F: 500K HDD
    W: Samsung SSD 840 128K
    Keyboard
    Logitech Lighted
    Mouse
    Kensington ExpertMouse trackball
    Internet Speed
    500/500
    Browser
    Brave
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Only true way I've found is to replace it with a known good power supply. Testers I've seen test for voltages but do not test under load.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 16 5630
    CPU
    i7 1360P
    Motherboard
    Dell
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel CPU
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Touch Screen
    Screen Resolution
    1920X1080
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung NVME SSD
    PSU
    65 Watt Dell
    Case
    Dell
    Cooling
    Dell
    Keyboard
    Dell
    Mouse
    Trackpad
    Internet Speed
    Google Fiber
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender and Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    Cakewalk by Bandlab and Presonus Studio One 4.6 Pro recording programs. MOTU recording interface
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