Is there a way to speed local wifi network file transfer ?


William654

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Hi

I have tested USB 3 cable transfer to my android phone and I found it at 30 mb/s avg then I tested my wifi transfer I found it at 20 mb/s avg. I have a router that support b/g/n , My PC support Wifi 6E. My phone support Wi-Fi 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac, Wi-Fi Direct so is the router who need to be upgraded ?

I found this in search. Can I reach 200mbps ?

1696191978526.png

Thanks
 

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As you noted, your PC supports WiFi6e which is far faster than N. Since the router only supports N at the most, it is the bottleneck and it is the router that needs to be updated. BTW, 6e is pretty sweet. I get slightly better than Gigabit Ethernet speeds using 6e in the real world.
 

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As you noted, your PC supports WiFi6e which is far faster than N. Since the router only supports N at the most, it is the bottleneck and it is the router that needs to be updated. BTW, 6e is pretty sweet. I get slightly better than Gigabit Ethernet speeds using 6e in the real world.
If you can use full duplex then that's better than typical wifi default of half duplex. Another trick is to use a decent usb->lan bit of cable to a cheap switch with a cable attached to something like a decent wifi NightHawk extender or similar to one of its lan ports. These can use concurrently both 2.4 and 5 GHZ bands for the wifi to the router giving (depending on your ISP) a maximum theoretical speed of 1.3 Gbps probably decently fast enough for most people these days. Remember old wifi cards probably still won't work faster than 54 Mbps. USB->LAN with the cheap switch and lan into the wifi extender beats most bog standard wifi hands down.

Even if you have a slowish router the fact that you can use concurrently both 2.4 and 5 GHZ bands and at full duplex will improve throughput.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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Even if you have a slowish router the fact that you can use concurrently both 2.4 and 5 GHZ bands and at full duplex will improve throughput.
How I know if router can work at full duplex ? and how to enable ?
 

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@William654

That's why the switch thing with a Nethawk wifi extender can work better - using concurrent 2.4 and 5 GHZ streams from router into the extender will increase traffic throughput plus full duplex from usb_>lan to computer.

It's like a big river plus a small one flowing into the sea - the volume of water per sec increases compared with a single source.

Running short bit of LAN cable to the switch allows your computer to connect to a LAN port on the extender and take advantage of the concurrent wifi streams arriving from the router to the wifi extender and usb is far faster than typical computer wifi cards anyway. Most decent modern fibre ISP connections wil allow the router to xmit wifi on both bands concurrently.

To select full duplex choose in the ethernet properties the network card properties in Device hardware section (system->hardware-> device manager). Won't be available though for wifi cards.

Cheers
jimbo
 

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Running short bit of LAN cable to the switch allows your computer to connect to a LAN port on the extender and take advantage of the concurrent wifi streams arriving from the router to the wifi extender and usb is far faster than typical computer wifi cards anyway. Most decent modern fibre ISP connections wil allow the router to xmit wifi on both bands concurrently.
Dont understand completely. For learning do you know a youtube explain this ?

To select full duplex choose in the ethernet properties the network card properties in Device hardware section (system->hardware-> device manager). Won't be available though for wifi cards.
I opened device manager then I found this , which one ?

1696251912912.png
 

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"I have a router that support b/g/n"
"so is the router who need to be upgraded ?"

Yes, The Wireless Access Point part of the Router that needs updating.
It is very old, it needs to be updated ideally to WiFi 6/6E standard.

A simple explanation is that the latest Wireless Access Points support:
1) more Bands.
2) more Channels.
3) more Modulation systems.

They are backwards compatible with older hardware. For optimum performance all hardware of a wireless link should be of the same standard otherwise the lowest is used.
Does not matter what the links are WiFi Direct or via your Router it is the lowest spec hardware that is the limit.

The table you show is too simplified, the 802.11g is roughly right, the others much less so.
The actual max is very roughly half the link speed(theoretical).

 

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From the peanut gallery, Yes, new Router. I got an improvement going from an 802.11n to an 802.11ac. Downside is that ALL other wireless devices need to be the same to get the same benefit. I recently junked an old ACER Aspire Notebook [for other issues, lid hinges breaking case mounting] with an 802.11g Wireless that did work but speed of data copy to a NAS drive was horrible in comparison to n and ac.
 

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I opened device manager then I found this , which one ?

View attachment 72802
Those are the Advanced properties for the Intel AX210 WiFi card. Your motherboard has a Realtek L8200A onboard Gigabit Ethernet adapter, as a general rule the Speed & Duplex setting is best left at its default (Auto Negotiation).

duplex_settings.png
 

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@hdmi sorry this is old board had a problem and changed to MSI. I updated spec now
 

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@hdmi sorry this is old board had a problem and changed to MSI. I updated spec now
Realtek 8125B (2.5G) then. Same deal... you don't normally need to touch the Speed & Duplex setting, as Auto Negotiation should work perfectly fine.

That said, what you can do if you have two devices both of which can support faster WiFi speeds than the router is use WiFi Direct as a means to bypass the slow router (until you get a faster router at least). Another possible benefit of using WiFi Direct can be (in a few specific situations, and also regardless of whether you have replaced the router with a really very fast one) that it can help to increase the total combined throughput. Throughput = the amount of data transferred per unit time. Combined = all the WiFi connections that use the router combined with all the WiFi connections that use WiFi Direct.

However, you also need to factor in things like the limited range and signal stability (and also the loss in performance that tends to go with that) that very often are associated with choosing to use WiFi Direct as opposed to choosing the router to connect through WiFi, if we can assume that the router is still capable enough to put out a fairly decent level of signal quality.

Using the 2.4GHz band, my old Asus RT-N66U went through multiple solid brick walls like a knife goes through butter, but the same cannot be said about WiFi AC routers that are a lot more modern-advanced than it. That in fact is one of the main reasons why I had decided to keep using my Asus RT-N66U until finally, at very long last, I was able to grab the Asus RT-AX92U 2 Pack (WiFi 6 mesh system) at a very reasonable price.

Using the wired backhaul option, this mesh system makes the problem of WiFi routers having disappointingly limited range if you want them to be reliable, affordable and fast a real thing of the past. It doesn't have WiFi 6E, but then, it still fetches transfer speeds way over 900Mbps using the AX band, and, I got it over 2 years and 2 months ago for just 279 Euros.
 

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    Intel Iris Xe
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My Computer

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    RX 6800 XT
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    Creative Sound Blaster Z
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    BENQ and AOC QHD 120Hz
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what retailer was than ?
www.alternate.be and, as an extra gift from Asus back then, they had additionally included free shipping to Belgian customers with this product (which has a 3-year warranty period from Asus also).
 

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    Browser
    FF
  • Operating System
    11 Home
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    Medion S15450
    CPU
    i5 1135G7
    Memory
    16GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
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    2TB SSD internal
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    PSU
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    FF
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