Macrium Reflect backup with error code 23 (CRC) or 6 (MFT corrupt) not fixed by chkdsk


danmam

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Windows 11
Hello, I've been having an issue with getting Macrium Reflect to backup my C: drive. I generally receive one of the following 2 errors:

Backup aborted! - Unable to read from disk - Error Code 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check).
MFT corrupt - Error code = 6. Please run 'chkdsk C: /r'

I attached a log of a failed MR backup that ended with one of these errors below, in case that's helpful. And this is the disk I'm trying to backup:

1700573760766.png

I have run chkdsk C: /r multiple times, but continue to get this error (I have probably run it about 5 times, maybe more). I have attached the log files of the 2 most recent times I ran it. Per this KB article on the Macrium website, I was able to get an image to complete successfully, but with warnings:

1700572392810.png

Per that same article, these errors are likely a sign of a failing disk. Is it possible that running chkdsk more times will fix the issue (allow an image to be completed without throwing error code 23 or 6)? Is there other software I can use to more concretely diagnose that I have a failing disk? What risks am I running if I do end up replacing my disk, and restore from the image I just created? Any suggestions/ideas on how to approach this moving forward?

Please let me know if I can provide more info that could be useful, and thanks sincerely in advance for your thoughts!
 
Windows Build/Version
Windows 11 Version 21H2 OS Build 22000.2600

Attachments

  • chkdsk run 1.txt
    6.6 KB · Views: 4
  • chkdsk run 2.txt
    6.8 KB · Views: 4
  • Backup fail log.txt
    1.8 KB · Views: 4

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
Well, the Error 23 is definitely an indication of a failing disk (other diags really not needed), and the second error means the first is right in the middle of the System's most sensitive metadata, the Meta File Table... CheckDsk won't really help at this point.

Most likely, your last good image and a new disk will be your best bet at this point...

If you do replace your disk and use the image with the bad clusters in sectors, the Sytem "may" run fine (if none of those errors are in important Windows areas) but you will definitely have some bad DATA in your System and you won't, any longer, know exactly where that is (because it won't have an error associated with it any longer). I would only use your last error free image to do your restoration.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10, Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Z2 G5 Workstation
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700
    Motherboard
    HP Model# 8751
    Memory
    32gB (DDR4)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Realtek basic audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    32" UHD (Viewsonic)
    Screen Resolution
    3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    (3) NvME SSD, (1) SATA3 SSD
@danmam


Also... you need a bigger drive.
With your C:\ drive that full, you're gonna have trouble with Windows Updates as well.


The following will help you find a proper replacement drive...

 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22631.3527 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4702)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?
I would format the drive, restore from backup and then do a repair install. This ensures that no bad sectors are reused and will repair/replace any dodgy Windows files.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3374
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Backup aborted! - Unable to read from disk - Error Code 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check).
MFT corrupt - Error code = 6. Please run 'chkdsk C: /r'

I attached a log of a failed MR backup that ended with one of these errors below, in case that's helpful. And this is the disk I'm trying to backup:

1700573760766.png


I have run chkdsk C: /r multiple times, but continue to get this error.....
That 'MFT corrupt - Error code = 6. Please run 'chkdsk C: /r' message is a generic error message. The partition with the corrupt MFT is not necessarily the C: drive. You have two more NTFS partitions besides C:, each with their own MFT. Partitions 4 and 5 look like recovery partitions. Only one will be in use, find out which from an Admin command prompt with the command reagentc /info (my guess is it will be the larger one, partition 5).

Try excluding the unused recovery partition from the image. If it still fails, try excluding both. If successful, you could replace the drive with a new one and restore the image to it. Your PC will work without a recovery partition, but if you have an older good image you could restore the recovery partition from that.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Aspire 3 A315-23
    CPU
    AMD Athlon Silver 3050U
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon Graphics
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop screen
    Screen Resolution
    1366x768 native resolution, up to 2560x1440 with Radeon Virtual Super Resolution
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung EVO 870 SSD
    Internet Speed
    50 Mbps
    Browser
    Edge, Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    fully 'Windows 11 ready' laptop. Windows 10 C: partition migrated from my old unsupported 'main machine' then upgraded to 11. A test migration ran Insider builds for 2 months. When 11 was released on 5th October it was re-imaged back to 10 and was offered the upgrade in Windows Update on 20th October. Windows Update offered the 22H2 Feature Update on 20th September 2022. It got the 23H2 Feature Update on 4th November 2023 through Windows Update.

    My SYSTEM THREE is a Dell Latitude 5410, i7-10610U, 32GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro (and all my Hyper-V VMs).

    My SYSTEM FOUR is a 2-in-1 convertible Lenovo Yoga 11e 20DA, Celeron N2930, 8GB RAM, 256GB ssd. Unsupported device: currently running Win10 Pro, plus Win11 Pro RTM and Insider Beta as native boot vhdx.

    My SYSTEM FIVE is a Dell Latitude 3190 2-in-1, Pentium Silver N5030, 4GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro, plus the Insider Beta, Dev, and Canary builds as a native boot .vhdx.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Lattitude E4310
    CPU
    Intel® Core™ i5-520M
    Motherboard
    0T6M8G
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics card(s)
    (integrated graphics) Intel HD Graphics
    Screen Resolution
    1366x768
    Hard Drives
    500GB Crucial MX500 SSD
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    unsupported machine: Legacy bios, MBR, TPM 1.2, upgraded from W10 to W11 using W10/W11 hybrid install media workaround. In-place upgrade to 22H2 using ISO and a workaround. Feature Update to 23H2 by manually installing the Enablement Package. Also running Insider Beta, Dev, and Canary builds as a native boot .vhdx.

    My SYSTEM THREE is a Dell Latitude 5410, i7-10610U, 32GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro (and all my Hyper-V VMs).

    My SYSTEM FOUR is a 2-in-1 convertible Lenovo Yoga 11e 20DA, Celeron N2930, 8GB RAM, 256GB ssd. Unsupported device: currently running Win10 Pro, plus Win11 Pro RTM and Insider Beta as native boot vhdx.

    My SYSTEM FIVE is a Dell Latitude 3190 2-in-1, Pentium Silver N5030, 4GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro, plus the Insider Beta, Dev, and Canary builds as a native boot .vhdx.
Well, the Error 23 is definitely an indication of a failing disk (other diags really not needed), and the second error means the first is right in the middle of the System's most sensitive metadata, the Meta File Table... CheckDsk won't really help at this point.

Most likely, your last good image and a new disk will be your best bet at this point...

If you do replace your disk and use the image with the bad clusters in sectors, the Sytem "may" run fine (if none of those errors are in important Windows areas) but you will definitely have some bad DATA in your System and you won't, any longer, know exactly where that is (because it won't have an error associated with it any longer). I would only use your last error free image to do your restoration.
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, just prior to the error starting to show itself, Macrium went ahead and deleted my last good full image (which is my fault, since that's what I had it set up to do -- but none of the subsequent full images after that last good one were able to complete without throwing this error. So my last good image is likely from 3 years back on a hard drive I haven't used in awhile. Trying to avoid having to use that one.

I did go through and use Recuva to try to see if I could recover that last good image (there was a full plus a lot of differentials, I tried recovering the most recent good differential and the most recent good full). The differential was able to be recovered, but the matching full image doesn't seem to be recoverable (it shows up as a .mrimg file of the correct size in Windows Explorer, but Macrium Reflect can't open it). I see there's also a .tmp file of this same full image that Recuva shows as possibly recoverable -- would I be able to turn that into a workable image if it could be recovered?

Otherwise, looks like I'm either stuck with a very old image to restore or one with some ticking time bombs in it....
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
@danmam


Also... you need a bigger drive.
With your C:\ drive that full, you're gonna have trouble with Windows Updates as well.


The following will help you find a proper replacement drive...

You're not wrong! It's been a constant hassle keeping the C drive from filling up. If I buy a replacement SSD for my C drive, do I need to install it inside the laptop or can it be externally cased? (I ask because I've opened up my laptop a few times too many to some ill effects, and would prefer not to again; but will if necessary).
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
I would format the drive, restore from backup and then do a repair install. This ensures that no bad sectors are reused and will repair/replace any dodgy Windows files.
You mean restore from the recent backup with the bad sectors? The repair install will ensure these bad sectors aren't reused?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
You're not wrong! It's been a constant hassle keeping the C drive from filling up. If I buy a replacement SSD for my C drive, do I need to install it inside the laptop or can it be externally cased? (I ask because I've opened up my laptop a few times too many to some ill effects, and would prefer not to again; but will if necessary).


Well, you can buy an external drive, but I wouldn't want to run Windows from there.
You should be able to find a "disassembly" youtube for the make/model of your laptop.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22631.3527 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4702)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?
Well, you can buy an external drive, but I wouldn't want to run Windows from there.
You should be able to find a "disassembly" youtube for the make/model of your laptop.
Sure. I've had to replace internal components before....My last keyboard replacement attempt...did not go quite so well, but I can figure it out. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
That 'MFT corrupt - Error code = 6. Please run 'chkdsk C: /r' message is a generic error message. The partition with the corrupt MFT is not necessarily the C: drive. You have two more NTFS partitions besides C:, each with their own MFT. Partitions 4 and 5 look like recovery partitions. Only one will be in use, find out which from an Admin command prompt with the command reagentc /info (my guess is it will be the larger one, partition 5).

Try excluding the unused recovery partition from the image. If it still fails, try excluding both. If successful, you could replace the drive with a new one and restore the image to it. Your PC will work without a recovery partition, but if you have an older good image you could restore the recovery partition from that.
Running that command gave this result:
1700630335214.png

I assume this means that the recovery partition is disk 4?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
You must have made 2 Inplacements because your Partition structure looks like that. It always happens when the Recovery is not configured properly. What you should do right now. Delete your hiberfil.sys immediately, if you are using one!
cmd (admin) powercfg /H off
Check your manual if you have an additional port for a 2nd disk. Sata or NVMe.
Run
diskpart
list disk
sel disk 1
(if it is really your OS disk )
list par
sel par 5
(the last partition on that disk)
det par
exit

check if the ID = de94bba4-06d1-4d40-a16a-bfd50179d6ac

Then open notepad
in cmd (admin)
type
bcdedit /enum all
copy the complete content to notepad and save as BCD.txt.
Attach the textfile to your reply.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP ZBook
    CPU
    Intel 6700HQ
    Motherboard
    HP
    Memory
    24
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD FirePro 5170M
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 860 Pro
    Keyboard
    yes
    Mouse
    yes
    Other Info
    19045.3803
    some Red Hat workhorses
You mean restore from the recent backup with the bad sectors? The repair install will ensure these bad sectors aren't reused?
If you format the drive and Ron chkdsk /r again any bad sectors will not be used again. Macrium can't write bad sectors to the disk although some files may be corrupt. A repair install will replace any damaged Windows files. Its worth a try.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3374
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
My experience

I was doing a Macrium backup on my wifes computer and got this error. After reading further I purchased a new NVME SSD and placed in an external case.

I cloned her C drive with Macrium Reflect and replaced the old drive with the new one. I imaged her C drive without a hitch.

We both have custom-built desktops with new windows 11 compatible motherboard and CPU purchased 18 months ago.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    No Name - Assembled by a Compute shop in a Strip Mall.
    CPU
    Intel i511400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME B560-PLUS motherboard
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    0
    Sound Card
    0
    Monitor(s) Displays
    28 in Samsung
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    6 SSDs a mixture of 3 Nvme and 3 Sata.
    PSU
    600w
    Case
    Antec- VSK4000E-U3 Mid Tower
    Internet Speed
    40 MPS download and 3.5 MPS upload. The condo building is nor wired with Fibe yet
    Browser
    Firefox, Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
Hello everyone, I had a hard drive that stubbornly wouldn't clone or image, giving me "Error 0 - Read failed - 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check)". I tried everything suggested in this and other forums to no avail. Windows disk checking, CHKDSK /R, DISM /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth, sfc /scannow, turning off the Verify File System options in various places, the "Forensic Sector Copy" under Advanced Options when cloning, the "Ignore bad sectors when creating images" option under Other Tasks -> Edit Defaults and Settings -> Advanced Settings -> Advanced Backup Settings ... none of it worked.

I visited the Macrium forum and found this post which solved my problem with a post from Matt92:

Matt92 seemed to have had a similar problem that I did (mine was slightly different), and he seemed to have tried all the same stuff I did. However, he used a third party disk repair tool, Hard Disk Sentinel Pro, to further identify and correct some bad sectors that CHKDSK /R wouldn't correct.

It seemed unbelievable to me that CHKDSK would fail to repair sectors that were still repairable, but upon using a third party disk repair tool, the sectors were repaired. Thereafter I was able to clone the drive without the dreaded Error 0 - Read failed - 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check) bug.

I wanted to post my corroborating evidence on the Macrium Forum, but I don't have a Supported version of their product that would allow me to post to the Forum. So I found this page in a Google Search result and figured I'd pass along my success story. Hopefully it helps someone else!
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x570-Pro
    Memory
    96GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro RAM (2x32GB + 2x16GB)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080
@SirLouie ,

Welcome to ElevenForum. Thank you for sharing your solution. I use Hard Disk Sentinel Pro, too, on both of my computers. It is great software app.

Have a great day.

Regards,
Phil
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro Version 23H2 (Build 22631.3527)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell XPS8930 SE
    CPU
    Intel i7-9700K 4700 MHz
    Motherboard
    Dell XPS 8930
    Memory
    32 GB (4 x 8GB SK Hynix DDR4 @1333 MHz) (2666 MHz)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 (6 GB) GDDR6 300 MHz
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell UltraSharp U2518D 25"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    NVMe Intel 1024 TB
    Seagate 2 TB, SATA-III
    PSU
    850 W Gold Standard
    Case
    Dell XPS 8930 Base (Special Edition)
    Cooling
    Air
    Keyboard
    Dell 0G4D2W
    Mouse
    Dell MOCZUL
    Internet Speed
    Download 553 Mbps, Upload 686 Mbps
    Browser
    Google Chrome
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Premium Security, plus Malwarebytes Premium
    Other Info
    BIOS Version 1.1.31
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro Version 23H2 (Build 22631.3527)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell XPS 15 7590
    CPU
    i7-9750H 4.5 GHz
    Motherboard
    Dell XPS 15 7590
    Memory
    16 GB (2 x 8GB @ 1333 MHz) DDR4-2666 MHz
    Graphics card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce 1650 4 GB GDDR5
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell XPS 15 7590, 15.6" InfinityEdge Anti-Glare, Non-Touch
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    512 GB M.2 PCle NVMe SK Hynix
    PSU
    130W Power Adapter
    Case
    Dell XPS 15 7590
    Cooling
    Air
    Mouse
    Logitech M510
    Keyboard
    Laptop
    Internet Speed
    Download: 400 Mbps, Upload: 203 Mbps
    Browser
    Google Chrome
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Premium Security, plus Malwarebytes Premium
    Other Info
    BIOS Version 1.27.0
You must have made 2 Inplacements because your Partition structure looks like that. It always happens when the Recovery is not configured properly. What you should do right now. Delete your hiberfil.sys immediately, if you are using one!
cmd (admin) powercfg /H off
Check your manual if you have an additional port for a 2nd disk. Sata or NVMe.
Run
diskpart
list disk
sel disk 1
(if it is really your OS disk )
list par
sel par 5
(the last partition on that disk)
det par
exit

check if the ID = de94bba4-06d1-4d40-a16a-bfd50179d6ac

Then open notepad
in cmd (admin)
type
bcdedit /enum all
copy the complete content to notepad and save as BCD.txt.
Attach the textfile to your reply.
Is there any worth to me doing this? I see the user who posted this advice was banned, so I'm hesitant to follow these instructions.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
Hello everyone, I had a hard drive that stubbornly wouldn't clone or image, giving me "Error 0 - Read failed - 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check)". I tried everything suggested in this and other forums to no avail. Windows disk checking, CHKDSK /R, DISM /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth, sfc /scannow, turning off the Verify File System options in various places, the "Forensic Sector Copy" under Advanced Options when cloning, the "Ignore bad sectors when creating images" option under Other Tasks -> Edit Defaults and Settings -> Advanced Settings -> Advanced Backup Settings ... none of it worked.

I visited the Macrium forum and found this post which solved my problem with a post from Matt92:

Matt92 seemed to have had a similar problem that I did (mine was slightly different), and he seemed to have tried all the same stuff I did. However, he used a third party disk repair tool, Hard Disk Sentinel Pro, to further identify and correct some bad sectors that CHKDSK /R wouldn't correct.

It seemed unbelievable to me that CHKDSK would fail to repair sectors that were still repairable, but upon using a third party disk repair tool, the sectors were repaired. Thereafter I was able to clone the drive without the dreaded Error 0 - Read failed - 23 - Data error (cyclic redundancy check) bug.

I wanted to post my corroborating evidence on the Macrium Forum, but I don't have a Supported version of their product that would allow me to post to the Forum. So I found this page in a Google Search result and figured I'd pass along my success story. Hopefully it helps someone else!
Thanks a ton for linking this -- was able to use Hard Disk Sentinel Pro to repair the sectors on my C drive, and now I can image my C drive without any errors (even with "Ignore bad sectors when creating images" turned off). So, I at least am now able to image my C drive, but for various reasons (such as how small the C drive is, and the fact that Hard Disk Sentinel Pro still rates it as low-health), I'd like to replace it.

I purchased a new 1 TB SSD (MX500 from Crucial), and cloned all partitions of my C drive to the new SSD. Basically like this:
1705978135962.png

Everything worked out fine, but then when I opened up my laptop to replace the C drive with my new SSD, and was very surprised to find that the SSD I purchased (2.5" SATA drive) would be replacing my D drive (internal 1 TB hard drive that I use for storage of just about everything):
1705978546310.png
It turns out my C drive looks like this -- is this even something that's replaceable?
1705978624199.png
When I put the new SSD into my laptop (removing my D hard drive), Windows still booted from the C drive, and a cursory attempt to have Windows boot instead from the new SSD (using EasyBCD software) did not work, though I haven't tried extensively.

Is my best bet here to keep the C drive in the laptop, but figure out a way to boot from the new SSD (and, use the previously internal D drive as an external hard drive moving forward)? Or should I buy a larger capacity version of the C drive (which is much smaller than I expected it to be), clone to that, and then replace the C drive physically with my new "C-stick".
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer
It turns out my C drive looks like this -- is this even something that's replaceable?
View attachment 84855

Your C drive is an M.2 (likely 2280) form factor SATA SSD and is indeed replaceable. The two notches in the connector edge indicate that it's a B+M key (SATA) drive.

See here for reference:
What is M.2? Keys and Sockets Explained
1706001060919.png

If you look on your motherboard where this is installed, You will see that the socket for this drive either has two notches (one to match each of the B+M keys) or one notch (which should only match the M key, but in some cases only match the B key on the other side).

Here is an example slot with one notch matching the M key:
1705998960214.png

If your motherboard slot has two notches, then you have several options:
1) remove the old M.2 SATA drive and leave it empty (but why?)
2) (eventually) wipe that old c drive, then install it back and use it as tiny storage (kinda ok)
3) buy a larger M.2 SATA SSD to replace the old one

If your motherboard slot has only one notch, you have an additional option, which I would recommend:
- buy an M.2 NVMe SSD to replace the old one.

NVMe SSD drives are much faster than M.2 or 2.5" SATA drives because they connect directly to the PCIe lanes. Note: the drives are NOT flippable, so if your motherboard only has a B-key notch, the NVMe drive won't fit no matter how you orient it.

When I put the new SSD into my laptop (removing my D hard drive), Windows still booted from the C drive, and a cursory attempt to have Windows boot instead from the new SSD (using EasyBCD software) did not work, though I haven't tried extensively.

Is my best bet here to keep the C drive in the laptop, but figure out a way to boot from the new SSD (and, use the previously internal D drive as an external hard drive moving forward)? Or should I buy a larger capacity version of the C drive (which is much smaller than I expected it to be), clone to that, and then replace the C drive physically with my new "C-stick".
You've cloned your 120GB M.2 SATA SSD to your 1TB 2.5" SSD? If that's the case, I would try the following.
1. Physically remove the M.2 drive. Put it somewhere safe. If anything goes wrong, you pop this back in and you're back up and running.
2. Replace the existing 2.5" HDD (assuming your storage drive was a regular hard drive) in your laptop with the 1TB 2.5" SSD.

The laptop *should* boot without a problem, unless you had BCD issues. The previous issue is that your old C drive and your new 1TB SSD have the same boot information, so hooking them both up at the same time doesn't give you the expected result. However, if you clone old to new, then replace old with new, the system *usually* sees the new drive as if it was the old drive and boots without a problem. On rare occasions I've seen boot files get weird and need to be rebuilt, but there are instructions on how to do that. Once I even discovered that the boot partition had migrated to a non-boot drive! My new hardware worked *until* I removed my old hardware. That's why it's important not to wipe anything until you're sure the system works without it.

This recommendation assumes that you don't have room in the laptop for a second 2.5" drive.

I'd then take your 1TB 2.5" HDD and pop it into a 2.5" USB 3.x enclosure. They're like $10 on Amazon. Plug it into the laptop and take it with you.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Enclosure-External-Tool-Free-25PW1-C3/dp/B0B936Q35S
1706000151535.png

Although if I were you, and my laptop had a one-notch M-key M.2 slot, I would return the 1TB Crucial (or use it to replace the HDD) and buy a large NVMe M.2 2280 SSD to benefit from the speed boost. Pick up an NVMe USB 3.x enclosure. They're about $20 on amazon.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Enclosure-Tool-Free-Aluminum-External/dp/B0BWMVVDBM
1706001343176.png

Put the new NVMe drive into this contraption, then connect it to your laptop after it boots to the original M.2 drive, and then clone it to the temporarily USB-connected new NVMe drive. Shut it down, swap the M.2 SATA drive for the M.2 NVMe drive, and it should boot right up. Then you could keep your existing 1TB HDD (or if you're really feeling the need for speed, clone that to your 1TB SSD and replace it) right inside the laptop.

One other thing to mention - you may wish you overprovision your new SSD drives by shrinking the main partition and leaving that space open at the end of the drive. Such space can be used by the SSD controller to more efficiently manage the drive's lifetime. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I basically cut off about 10% of the drive's capacity and just leave it off the end of the drive. Maybe it's stupid, maybe someone else can confirm or correct me.

Info on overprovisioning:
https://www.techtarget.com/searchstorage/definition/overprovisioning-SSD-overprovisioning

For example, here's my 1TB Steam drive:
1706000936495.png

You can see I have reserved about 10% of the space for overprovisioning.

Anyway, I'm glad you found my original post helpful, and I hope that this one is more specifically helpful to you! Feel free to ask questions if you encounter something not mentioned here.

-Shawn
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime x570-Pro
    Memory
    96GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro RAM (2x32GB + 2x16GB)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080
Your C drive is an M.2 (likely 2280) form factor SATA SSD and is indeed replaceable. The two notches in the connector edge indicate that it's a B+M key (SATA) drive.

See here for reference:
What is M.2? Keys and Sockets Explained
View attachment 84883

If you look on your motherboard where this is installed, You will see that the socket for this drive either has two notches (one to match each of the B+M keys) or one notch (which should only match the M key, but in some cases only match the B key on the other side).

Here is an example slot with one notch matching the M key:
View attachment 84880

If your motherboard slot has two notches, then you have several options:
1) remove the old M.2 SATA drive and leave it empty (but why?)
2) (eventually) wipe that old c drive, then install it back and use it as tiny storage (kinda ok)
3) buy a larger M.2 SATA SSD to replace the old one

If your motherboard slot has only one notch, you have an additional option, which I would recommend:
- buy an M.2 NVMe SSD to replace the old one.

NVMe SSD drives are much faster than M.2 or 2.5" SATA drives because they connect directly to the PCIe lanes. Note: the drives are NOT flippable, so if your motherboard only has a B-key notch, the NVMe drive won't fit no matter how you orient it.


You've cloned your 120GB M.2 SATA SSD to your 1TB 2.5" SSD? If that's the case, I would try the following.
1. Physically remove the M.2 drive. Put it somewhere safe. If anything goes wrong, you pop this back in and you're back up and running.
2. Replace the existing 2.5" HDD (assuming your storage drive was a regular hard drive) in your laptop with the 1TB 2.5" SSD.

The laptop *should* boot without a problem, unless you had BCD issues. The previous issue is that your old C drive and your new 1TB SSD have the same boot information, so hooking them both up at the same time doesn't give you the expected result. However, if you clone old to new, then replace old with new, the system *usually* sees the new drive as if it was the old drive and boots without a problem. On rare occasions I've seen boot files get weird and need to be rebuilt, but there are instructions on how to do that. Once I even discovered that the boot partition had migrated to a non-boot drive! My new hardware worked *until* I removed my old hardware. That's why it's important not to wipe anything until you're sure the system works without it.

This recommendation assumes that you don't have room in the laptop for a second 2.5" drive.

I'd then take your 1TB 2.5" HDD and pop it into a 2.5" USB 3.x enclosure. They're like $10 on Amazon. Plug it into the laptop and take it with you.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Enclosure-External-Tool-Free-25PW1-C3/dp/B0B936Q35S
View attachment 84881

Although if I were you, and my laptop had a one-notch M-key M.2 slot, I would return the 1TB Crucial (or use it to replace the HDD) and buy a large NVMe M.2 2280 SSD to benefit from the speed boost. Pick up an NVMe USB 3.x enclosure. They're about $20 on amazon.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Enclosure-Tool-Free-Aluminum-External/dp/B0BWMVVDBM
View attachment 84884

Put the new NVMe drive into this contraption, then connect it to your laptop after it boots to the original M.2 drive, and then clone it to the temporarily USB-connected new NVMe drive. Shut it down, swap the M.2 SATA drive for the M.2 NVMe drive, and it should boot right up. Then you could keep your existing 1TB HDD (or if you're really feeling the need for speed, clone that to your 1TB SSD and replace it) right inside the laptop.

One other thing to mention - you may wish you overprovision your new SSD drives by shrinking the main partition and leaving that space open at the end of the drive. Such space can be used by the SSD controller to more efficiently manage the drive's lifetime. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I basically cut off about 10% of the drive's capacity and just leave it off the end of the drive. Maybe it's stupid, maybe someone else can confirm or correct me.

Info on overprovisioning:
https://www.techtarget.com/searchstorage/definition/overprovisioning-SSD-overprovisioning

For example, here's my 1TB Steam drive:
View attachment 84882

You can see I have reserved about 10% of the space for overprovisioning.

Anyway, I'm glad you found my original post helpful, and I hope that this one is more specifically helpful to you! Feel free to ask questions if you encounter something not mentioned here.

-Shawn

Thanks for all the great info! It appears my computer (Acer Aspire F5-573G) is compatible with the M.2 NVMe drive, but from what I'm reading online, it will only operate at about half the speed advertised by the manufacturer. See here and here. Do you think it's still worth it to go with a NVMe drive vs. a M.2. SATA drive, even if I won't be getting the full speed of the NVMe drive? (Is it that much of an improvement over a M.2. SATA drive still?) In any case, I will be returning the 2.5" SSD I ordered and keeping the original HD, there is not room for 2 2.5" HDs in my laptop. Thanks again for your help.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer

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