Solved New build - old licenses step by step


unifex

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I have searched through multiple tutorials and threads (and websites) and I still don't have a clear picture on how do I transfer licenses when I build a new PC. Right now I am preparing for a new build (my video card apparently is not working and instead of buying a used card for my old motherboard, I think it's time to get a new build. It is generally accepted that a clean install is the way to go on a new build. The question is how to transfer the software licenses, specifically Windows and Office.

My Windows 11 licenses appear to be digital - I used to have product keys for older OS versions (7 and 8), which then were upgraded to 10 and eventually 11. I still have some of those keys written down somewhere, but it doesn't look like they are accepted anymore. It seems that the current way to use the digital licenses is to link them to a Microsoft account. The question I have is whether there is another way - I prefer to install and set up windows without connecting the PC to the internet (I believe that the internet is an optional service, not a part of the computer, which should work as intended without having any network connection whatsoever).

The second question is about Office. I have a fully licensed version of Office installed, but I don't remember how I installed it - all I have is a OfficeSetup file, which I guess downloads the office installation, but it's not clear to me where the license comes in. So, is there a built in tool (similar to slmgr.vbs) to check the license status for Office? Simply loggin in with a Microsoft account somehow does not link the Office to that account, so I have the Office installed on the PC, but I don't have it in the Microsoft account and hence cannot transfer it to a new PC that way. I absolutely refuse the subscription version, so please don't waste your time on suggesting or mentioning that.

Thanks for your help
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i5-10600K
    Motherboard
    Asus Rog Strix Z490-A Gaming
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce GTX 1650
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung U32J59x 32" 4K
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
I don't know the exact procedure, but to transfer a license it implies it is registered to your Microsoft Account. From a browser you can access your Microsoft account and them remove a device and associate a new device. This means you must use your Microsoft account to login in order to transfer the license. Similarly for Office. First you run the installer which might have the key embedded and then you have to login with your Microsoft Account and see if it activates or you have to transfer the license from the browser.

Alternatively for Windows you can just buy a new Windows 10/11 Home or Pro key and use it to activate. Yes, Windows 10 and 11 share the same keys because 11 is essentially Windows 10 with a new skin and more features. For example Windows 11 25H2 is version 10.0.26200.xxxx In any case you can call Microsoft to activate by phone and they will tell you if you need to buy a new key or not.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
I have searched through multiple tutorials and threads (and websites) and I still don't have a clear picture on how do I transfer licenses when I build a new PC. Right now I am preparing for a new build (my video card apparently is not working and instead of buying a used card for my old motherboard, I think it's time to get a new build. It is generally accepted that a clean install is the way to go on a new build. The question is how to transfer the software licenses, specifically Windows and Office.

My Windows 11 licenses appear to be digital - I used to have product keys for older OS versions (7 and 8), which then were upgraded to 10 and eventually 11. I still have some of those keys written down somewhere, but it doesn't look like they are accepted anymore. It seems that the current way to use the digital licenses is to link them to a Microsoft account. The question I have is whether there is another way - I prefer to install and set up windows without connecting the PC to the internet (I believe that the internet is an optional service, not a part of the computer, which should work as intended without having any network connection whatsoever).

The second question is about Office. I have a fully licensed version of Office installed, but I don't remember how I installed it - all I have is a OfficeSetup file, which I guess downloads the office installation, but it's not clear to me where the license comes in. So, is there a built in tool (similar to slmgr.vbs) to check the license status for Office? Simply loggin in with a Microsoft account somehow does not link the Office to that account, so I have the Office installed on the PC, but I don't have it in the Microsoft account and hence cannot transfer it to a new PC that way. I absolutely refuse the subscription version, so please don't waste your time on suggesting or mentioning that.

Thanks for your help
Standalone MS Office installations have independent licence keys which you would have entered during installation.

You could recover the licence key for Office 2013 or earlier with various tools, but since them office licence keys are encrypted and if you do not have the original licence key, you are out of luck, and would need to buy a new licence.

Using W7/8 keys no longer works.

Windows is easier somewhat, assuming you log in with an MS account, as you login with same MS account on new pc and use activation troubleshooter.

There is no way to transfer to a new pc without connecting to internet and using MS account.
How can you transfer a digital licence stored online without going online?
Many people who refused to use an MS account fell foul of this when their pc/mobo failed and had to buy a new licence.

Of course, there are many ways of getting a cheap licence for Windows and Office. Just google it.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro + Win11 Canary VM.
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Zenbook 14
    CPU
    I9 13th gen i9-13900H 2.60 GHZ
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB soldered
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop OLED screen
    Screen Resolution
    2880x1800 touchscreen
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME SSD (only weakness is only one slot)
    PSU
    Internal + 65W thunderbolt USB4 charger
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois (UK pint cans - 568 ml) - extra cost.
    Keyboard
    Built in UK keybd
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wireless dongled, wired
    Internet Speed
    900 mbs (ethernet), wifi 6 typical 350-450 mb/s both up and down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0, 2xUSB4 thunderbolt, 1xUsb3 (usb a), 1xUsb-c, hdmi out, 3.5 mm audio out/in combo, ASUS backlit trackpad (inc. switchable number pad)

    Macrium Reflect Home V8
    Office 365 Family (6 users each 1TB onedrive space)
    Hyper-V (a vm runs almost as fast as my older laptop)
  • Like
Reactions: Gas
An alternative is to CLONE your old disk on the new disk and load Windows. Of course you need to activate, but then you can call Microsoft, explain that your old computer just died and help you activate by phone. In worst case you will need to buy a new Windows and/or Office key. Any other workaround is illegal and we cannot discuss it here.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
@unifex hello, I built a new system few months ago, i called the Microsoft help desk and they told me that my Window license would be transferred to the new build automatically and, of course, you cannot use it anymore on the old build, just select I have not a licence key when you install the OS; for Office it's better to ask Microsoft as there are many kind of licenses.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W11, always updated with latest builds
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self-made
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 9900X
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming B850-Plus WiFi
    Memory
    G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32GB Kit DDR5-6000 CL30 (F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR)
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS Dual GeForce RTX™ 3060 V2 OC Edition 12GB GDDR6
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Eizo CS240, Calibrated with Datacolr SpyderX
    Screen Resolution
    1920X1200
    Hard Drives
    Crucial T705 SSD 1TB PCIe Gen5 NVMe M.2- SO+Archive
    Lexar EQ790 1TB SSD M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4x4 NVMe 1.4- LR& PS Workspace
    PHIXERO SSD P5000-512GB M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4- Backups
    Seagate ST8000DM04- Photo Archive, SATA HD
    Western Digital WD2002FAEX- Generic archive, SATA HD
    PSU
    Be Quiet 850W Pure Power 12M per Pc ATX
    Case
    Phanteks XT Pro
    Cooling
    Be quiet Pure loop 2 360mm
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    D/L-700/800 Mbps; U/L 250/300 Mbps WiFi 7 from motherboard
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Avast
    Other Info
    Mostly used for photo retouching software & some video slideshows.
@unifex hello, I built a new system few months ago, i called the Microsoft help desk and they told me that my Window license would be transferred to the new build automatically and, of course, you cannot use it anymore on the old build, just select I have not a licence key when you install the OS; for Office it's better to ask Microsoft as there are many kind of licenses.
This means that he must connect to the internet to verify his Microsoft account and he must use his Microsoft account to login, not a local account. The OP wanted to avoid connecting to the internet probably for security reasons. That's OK, just connect once to activate Windows and Office and then you may stay disconnected for ever. You will need to connect only for downloading new Windows and Office updates, unless you use offline WSUS:


Of course to do that you need to download the utility and prepare the update data on another computer. Then you copy the updates on a USB flash drive and update the offline computer.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
  • Like
Reactions: Gas
So do I understand correctly, there is no way to convert the digital license into a license key or save it as a file on a USB drive in order to transfer to a new PC, both Windows and Office?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i5-10600K
    Motherboard
    Asus Rog Strix Z490-A Gaming
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce GTX 1650
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung U32J59x 32" 4K
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
As mentioned the old Win7/8 keys will no longer work on new Win11 systems. Also something else to consider....are your older license keys on OEM systems? If so those are not transferable to new hardware. If you have Retail license keys for Win10, those are transferable.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win 7/10/11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Other Info
    I'm a computer enthusiast so have quite a few systems that I run. More like an advanced hobby.
So do I understand correctly, there is no way to convert the digital license into a license key or save it as a file on a USB drive in order to transfer to a new PC, both Windows and Office?
No, a digital license is connected to a specific computer. Even a same brand, same model computer won't work because the serial numbers will be different and hence it has a different hardware ID. You have to buy a Windows 10/11 key as Microsoft removed the option to use a Windows 7 or 8 key to activate. It's not big deal, I have read in other threads that you can find a key for lower than $10.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
No, a digital license is connected to a specific computer. Even a same brand, same model computer won't work because the serial numbers will be different and hence it has a difference hardware ID. You have to buy a Windows 10/11 key as Microsoft removed the option to use a Windows 7 or 8 key to activate. It's not big deal, I have read in other threads that you can find a key for lower than $10.
You can transfer a digital licenced as discussed earlier but you have to connect to the internet and use same MS account on both devices.

OP has no option but to connect to internet to do this.

I do not know what the OP's big deal as 99.999% of all users do this all the time. OP only needs to connect for a few minutes - if no internet at home, OP could use a mobile phone wifi hotspot, or internet cafe etc.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro + Win11 Canary VM.
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Zenbook 14
    CPU
    I9 13th gen i9-13900H 2.60 GHZ
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB soldered
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop OLED screen
    Screen Resolution
    2880x1800 touchscreen
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME SSD (only weakness is only one slot)
    PSU
    Internal + 65W thunderbolt USB4 charger
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois (UK pint cans - 568 ml) - extra cost.
    Keyboard
    Built in UK keybd
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wireless dongled, wired
    Internet Speed
    900 mbs (ethernet), wifi 6 typical 350-450 mb/s both up and down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0, 2xUSB4 thunderbolt, 1xUsb3 (usb a), 1xUsb-c, hdmi out, 3.5 mm audio out/in combo, ASUS backlit trackpad (inc. switchable number pad)

    Macrium Reflect Home V8
    Office 365 Family (6 users each 1TB onedrive space)
    Hyper-V (a vm runs almost as fast as my older laptop)
  • Like
Reactions: Gas
So do I understand correctly, there is no way to convert the digital license into a license key or save it as a file on a USB drive in order to transfer to a new PC, both Windows and Office?
No whatsoever - re-asking this question after you have been told (posts 3,5,7 by different persons) that there is only one way does not change the answer.

Regarding Office you have not said what version but if (as I said earlier) you need original key if newer than Office 2013. If you do not have it - tough luck end of story
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro + Win11 Canary VM.
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Zenbook 14
    CPU
    I9 13th gen i9-13900H 2.60 GHZ
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB soldered
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop OLED screen
    Screen Resolution
    2880x1800 touchscreen
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME SSD (only weakness is only one slot)
    PSU
    Internal + 65W thunderbolt USB4 charger
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois (UK pint cans - 568 ml) - extra cost.
    Keyboard
    Built in UK keybd
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wireless dongled, wired
    Internet Speed
    900 mbs (ethernet), wifi 6 typical 350-450 mb/s both up and down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0, 2xUSB4 thunderbolt, 1xUsb3 (usb a), 1xUsb-c, hdmi out, 3.5 mm audio out/in combo, ASUS backlit trackpad (inc. switchable number pad)

    Macrium Reflect Home V8
    Office 365 Family (6 users each 1TB onedrive space)
    Hyper-V (a vm runs almost as fast as my older laptop)
Yes, I don't buy he is trying to avoid internet for security reasons. Probably he has a key that has been blocked (reached the maximum allowed activations or illegal) and tries to activate without buying a new key. Yes, you can, but is illegal and we cannot tell you how. Also some tools to do so require you are online or they fail.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
To save the hassle, just buy a product key for Windows or Office from a reseller. They are so cheap nowadays.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win 7,8.1,10,11, Mint, Kde Plasma, Debian
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6500U CPU @ 2.50GHz
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520/Nvidia GeForce 930M
    Sound Card
    Intel(R) Display Audio/RealtekAudio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic Pnp Monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1366 X 768
    Hard Drives
    ST2000LM024-1EJ164
    Keyboard
    Eng (US)
    Mouse
    Sanwa Supply
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast One
    Other Info
    Too many laptops with different system specifications.
I'm not sure what do you guys mean by buying a license for $10. When I look it up on Amazon, it's 200 Euros. Since I already have a license, I see no reason to buy another one. Now, I understand that the only way to transfer it is to use the Microsoft account. When I look into the Microsoft account, I see my computer there (see the attached image).

How do I actually transfer it to the new PC? Just to clarify, for my new PC I will use almost the same parts as in the present one, I will only buy a new motherboard, processor, memory, and video card. I keep the case, the drives, and all other accessories (I'll have to see about the power supply). Therefore, once I put the new system together, the old one will no longer exist.
 

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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i5-10600K
    Motherboard
    Asus Rog Strix Z490-A Gaming
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce GTX 1650
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung U32J59x 32" 4K
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
Yes, I don't buy he is trying to avoid internet for security reasons. Probably he has a key that has been blocked (reached the maximum allowed activations or illegal) and tries to activate without buying a new key. Yes, you can, but is illegal and we cannot tell you how. Also some tools to do so require you are online or they fail.
No, not for security reasons and no, nothing has been blocked or ever was illegal. I have never ever installed or run Windows with the Microsoft account, always with the local account. I strongly believe that this is a wrong idea (I have a "personal computer", not a dumb terminal) and I resist it for as long as possible. If it is not possible, then I will install, then create a local user, log out of the Microsoft account and never use it again. I just don't see a reason why would I.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i5-10600K
    Motherboard
    Asus Rog Strix Z490-A Gaming
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce GTX 1650
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung U32J59x 32" 4K
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
Have you tried to call Microsoft, talk to a human representative (not activation bot), explain your old motherboard died and you moved your devices to a new one? They might be kind enough to help you activate without buying new keys. This implies that the old computer will be deactivated automatically when first online.

PS: I believe $200 is for a Retail key. No need to buy a retail key, there are cheaper alternatives. Just Google for Windows 11 key or Windows 10 key. They are the same.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
I bought an Office Suite from them last year with Apple Pay. Works fine.
Office Pro Plus 2019 - €8.19

That was last year. I don’t know whether the same people are still running the show or a new establishment has taken over.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win 7,8.1,10,11, Mint, Kde Plasma, Debian
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6500U CPU @ 2.50GHz
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520/Nvidia GeForce 930M
    Sound Card
    Intel(R) Display Audio/RealtekAudio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Generic Pnp Monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1366 X 768
    Hard Drives
    ST2000LM024-1EJ164
    Keyboard
    Eng (US)
    Mouse
    Sanwa Supply
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast One
    Other Info
    Too many laptops with different system specifications.
And you could link those keys to your Microsoft account? Or are they one-time activation keys?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i5-10600K
    Motherboard
    Asus Rog Strix Z490-A Gaming
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce GTX 1650
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung U32J59x 32" 4K
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
And you could link those keys to your Microsoft account? Or are they one-time activation keys?
Probably one time activation keys, but if they work who cares! Just hope you won't need to reinstall Office.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (5699), 25H2 (8457)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v25H2 (build 26200.8457)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3050 WINDFORCE OC V2 6GB (GV-N3050WF2OCV2-6GD)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4

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