Power Surge Protector Recommendation?


I'll check ground continuity between


Check the continuity between the radiator and a regular copper water pipe.
Zero or very low ohms and you're good to go.

Would be better to just buy a surge protector with a metal housing though.


Here's another way, but not very cheap...

 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Home ♦♦♦22631.3527 ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® [May 2020]
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    Asus Pro WS X570-ACE (BIOS 4702)
    Memory
    G.Skill (F4-3200C14D-16GTZKW)
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 2070 (08G-P4-2171-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC1220P / ALC S1220A
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U3011 30"
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1600
    Hard Drives
    2x Samsung 860 EVO 500GB,
    WD 4TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    WD 8TB Black FZBX - SATA III,
    DRW-24B1ST CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling 750W Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Cooler Master ATCS 840 Tower
    Cooling
    CM Hyper 212 EVO (push/pull)
    Keyboard
    Ducky DK9008 Shine II Blue LED
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-100
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox (latest)
    Antivirus
    Bitdefender Internet Security
    Other Info
    Speakers: Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
  • Operating System
    Windows XP Pro 32bit w/SP3
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Built by Ghot® (not in use)
    CPU
    AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ (OC'd @ 3.2Ghz)
    Motherboard
    ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
    Memory
    TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX (2 x 1GB, DDR2 800)
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SSC
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic G90FB Black 19" Professional (CRT)
    Screen Resolution
    up to 2048 x 1536
    Hard Drives
    WD 36GB 10,000rpm Raptor SATA
    Seagate 80GB 7200rpm SATA
    Lite-On LTR-52246S CD/RW
    Lite-On LH-18A1P CD/DVD Burner
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad EPS12V
    Case
    Generic Beige case, 80mm fans
    Cooling
    ZALMAN 9500A 92mm CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech Optical M-BT96a
    Keyboard
    Logitech Classic Keybooard 200
    Internet Speed
    300/300
    Browser
    Firefox 3.x ??
    Antivirus
    Symantec (Norton)
    Other Info
    Still assembled, still runs. Haven't turned it on for 13 years?
And, that's almost funny, since pure water is a very poor conductor of Electricity, while the metal pipes themselves are Good Conductors.

The technology of UPS's and Surge Protection Strips has actually changed quite a bit in the past 40 years, when I first started working with them. I used to buy cheap power strips and add the surge protectors to them, and then resell them, at Hamfests, CB Jamborees, and computer shows.
The popular surge protector is a "Varistor". (variable resistor) They work pretty well, for single events, but not so much with repeated hits.
And, one more drawback is the time they take to "Turn On". They are slow to respond to a sharp voltage spike.
However, I've used a different device, called a "Transorb" that looks just like a very heavy duty Diode. They can withstand thousands of Hits and still survive. Electrically, they are like a very high power Zener Diode.

That said, you probably will NOT find a consumer product, (Surge Suppressed Power Strip) that would contain a Transorb.

In my own home, which is well grounded, I have at least a half dozen surge suppressors of one type or another. Their effect is additive, where the more you have, the more suppression you will get. My best one, that partially protects my MAIN PC, is a "PanaMax" which cost me $149, years ago. I also use an APC UPS, which also has Surge Suppression built in. And into that I use an multi-outlet power strip that also has Surge Protection built in. So between the wall outlet and my PC, there are three Surge Protectors. Then the PSU in the PC also has its own Surge Protector.
Even when lightning has struck within just feet of my house, none of my Computers has ever been affected.

All the water pipes in my home and even the water inlet pipe is PVC (plastic) so they cannot be relied on for grounding.
Earth grounding comes from two, 8' long, copper clad grounding rods, one at either end of my home.

All I can suggest to anyone, is just do the best you can, with what you have to work with.

Happy Holidays, Mates!

TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Here's another way, but not very cheap...

Yikes! those suckas are steep. I've got a nice Tripp-Lite, just barely a year old. Gonna do some continuity investigations, but that's gotta wait a day or two. Thanks, all.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon G10
    CPU
    i5-1240p
    Memory
    16gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    Whatever comes in it
    Sound Card
    Whatever comes in it
    Monitor(s) Displays
    No external monitor. Yet.
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    Internal 512 GB SSD
    External 6 TB, 1 TB, 225 GB desktop HDD, 2TB portable HDD
    A whole army of USB flash memory sticks
    Mouse
    Logitech M317
    Internet Speed
    500 mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    CalDigit TS4 dock for all my USB stuff, speakers, and connect to Android phone
    HP MFP M277dw laser printer/scanner
@TechnoMage2021
1924 house = cast iron everywhere. Water and radiator heat both.

I spent a lot of time Googling about putting UPS and surge protectors in series, and found as many well-considered articles for as against. Do you have a definitive reference?

Interesting comment about the additive effect.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon G10
    CPU
    i5-1240p
    Memory
    16gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    Whatever comes in it
    Sound Card
    Whatever comes in it
    Monitor(s) Displays
    No external monitor. Yet.
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    Internal 512 GB SSD
    External 6 TB, 1 TB, 225 GB desktop HDD, 2TB portable HDD
    A whole army of USB flash memory sticks
    Mouse
    Logitech M317
    Internet Speed
    500 mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    CalDigit TS4 dock for all my USB stuff, speakers, and connect to Android phone
    HP MFP M277dw laser printer/scanner
Rule of Electronics. Devices such as resistors, in parallel are additive and devices in series are subtractive.
I know that sounds in error, but it's not, in this instance. (some would call it Reverse Logic)

By providing multiple paths to ground for a power spike, more energy can be dissipated.
It works a lot like a dead short to a spike.
So, multiple surge protectors on the same line are in parallel to the ground. (Additive!)

I have maybe as many as twenty Surge Protectors of one kind or another in my house. And four UPS's, all APC's.
Also, my power line has a surge protector attached to it, where the power comes into my house. That one was installed by the Power Company when they first ran power to my house.
I'm about as protected as I can get, with all plastic water pipes.

Happy Holidays,
TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Square D whole house surge protectors are about $100.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Homebuilt
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800XT
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero (WiFi)
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Education
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7773
    CPU
    Intel i7-8550U
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce MX150
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 512GB NVMe SSD
    SK Hynix 512GB SATA SSD
    Internet Speed
    Fast!
Square D whole house surge protectors are about $100.
I did a little searching and saw that. Still a bit amazed, considering I paid $70 less than a year ago for a nice 2100 joule Tripp-Lite with 8 110v AC outlets and 2 USB ports. Think I'll look into that a bit more. I assume it needs installing by an electrician.

If I had one of those on the front end, I'd be less uncomfortable with the Tripp-Lite not being grounded itself. Not to mention it would help coverage for other electronics that are now on cheap protectors. And maybe the HVAC, too?

I read that surge protectors need regular replacement, due to losing capacity with each surge they encounter, even relatively mild ones. Would that also be true of the whole-house unit?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 22H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon G10
    CPU
    i5-1240p
    Memory
    16gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    Whatever comes in it
    Sound Card
    Whatever comes in it
    Monitor(s) Displays
    No external monitor. Yet.
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    Internal 512 GB SSD
    External 6 TB, 1 TB, 225 GB desktop HDD, 2TB portable HDD
    A whole army of USB flash memory sticks
    Mouse
    Logitech M317
    Internet Speed
    500 mbps
    Browser
    Chrome
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    CalDigit TS4 dock for all my USB stuff, speakers, and connect to Android phone
    HP MFP M277dw laser printer/scanner
I was just reading your old post about the battery in your UPS. I recently went through the UPS popping the circuit breaker every time I plugged something in. I was getting ready to recycle it but decided to do an online search first. I found a number of post stating that a dead battery will do this on some UPS so I went ahead and ordered a new battery on Amazon. The UPS is working again and is now being used on my old desktop. Before I purchased the battery I bought a new UPS from Walmart to replace the old one. I didn't want the drives on on my new desktop getting corrupted because of a sudden power failure.


So you are saying that the red light showing in my circuit breaker in the UPS is because of the dead battery correct? Someone had mentioned it was a grounding issue or it is because the UPS is no longer good anymore to use. I continued to use it as is like a power strip and haven't had issues with this. So I didn't replace the UPS battery. But of course when power outage happens, everything connected to it goes off.

The thing is I found out I had to 2 UPS batteries for it since it's a bigger UPS so I decided to just use it like a power strip. But it still offers surge protection with a dead battery correct? If you say to continue using it, I should replace the UPS battery?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
Tripp Lite IsoBar surge protectors are the best.

But no surge protector will be adequate unless the house has three prong plugs.
Where I'm located normally, the grounding in every apartment, condo or house is not what you expect like in the US. It's literally the same.


Also what do you mean by three prong plugs? I recall someone mentioned if your building or condo or house has electrical wiring the way it is and you have to change it, it would cost hundreds of dollars at least? Thing is i'm in an apartment building so obviously that wouldn't work? If i were to move to another apartment, same issue applies as all electrical wiring is pretty much the same.


So thoughts on this? Buy a real surge protector for where I am at normally? Or continue to use the cyberpower UPS that I have but the battery is no longer good? I have continued to connect electronics to it without an issue as I'm using it like a power strip or surge protector.


Now for the other location where I'm at now, there is rarely any power outage or anything like that. So would a surge protector be a good idea or not necessary? They been using an old power strip in this location for years and never had an issue. Also no expensive electronics connected to it unless I'm here for a short time and connect my xps laptop.


Thoughts on that?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
See my edits above. :-)

If you happen to have a friend who's an electrician... they might do one outlet for a case of beer, especially since you have a crawl space. Those make running wires... easy. :D
If it's anything like the crawl space under my kitchen and bathroom it would probably take two cases of beer and a bottle of whisky. :-)
Any pipes that carry water will have a good ground contact... all the way out to the water main, in the street.
Water mains are like really big ground rods. :-)


This assumes that the entire water supply is metal pipes.
On newer houses they're starting to use PVC for water pipes.




Yep, a whole house surge protector is another way to go. I don't know what they cost though.
I'm also not sure that will work with two prong plugs.

I guess it depends on where the lightning strikes. :D
My suggestion was just in case the pipes aren't all metal. I replaced all of the galvanized iron pipes in my house with CPVC pipes years ago. We had very hard well water and the galvanized pipes were constantly clogging up with rust. Now we have city water and the ony metal pipe we have is the copper line from the meter to the house.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
So you are saying that the red light showing in my circuit breaker in the UPS is because of the dead battery correct?
What I'm saying is that I have a UPS that the outlets on the battery side won't work if the battery is dead. The circuit breaker keeps kicking out when something get plugged into them. The non battery backed up outlets worked as long as I didn't plug anything into the battery side. I took a chance and bought a new battery. I'm glad that's all it was because the batteries aren't cheap.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Where I'm located normally, the grounding in every apartment, condo or house is not what you expect like in the US. It's literally the same.


Also what do you mean by three prong plugs? I recall someone mentioned if your building or condo or house has electrical wiring the way it is and you have to change it, it would cost hundreds of dollars at least? Thing is i'm in an apartment building so obviously that wouldn't work? If i were to move to another apartment, same issue applies as all electrical wiring is pretty much the same.


So thoughts on this? Buy a real surge protector for where I am at normally? Or continue to use the cyberpower UPS that I have but the battery is no longer good? I have continued to connect electronics to it without an issue as I'm using it like a power strip or surge protector.


Now for the other location where I'm at now, there is rarely any power outage or anything like that. So would a surge protector be a good idea or not necessary? They been using an old power strip in this location for years and never had an issue. Also no expensive electronics connected to it unless I'm here for a short time and connect my xps laptop.


Thoughts on that?
Surges are possible at anytime and anywhere. You don't have to have an outage to get a power surge. A working surge protector is always good to use with electronic devices.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Has anyone had computer damage prevented by a surge protector when other equipment in the house was damaged? I'm not convinced that most SPDs would actually be effective in a direct lightning strike on your local electricity or telephone cables. In the UK, the relevant testing is earth loop impedance, not resistance.

Tripp Lite recommends a 2,000 Joules unit for computers with important data. I bet 90% of consumer SPDs are way less than 1,000!
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3527
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Has anyone had computer damage prevented by a surge protector when other equipment in the house was damaged? I'm not convinced that most SPDs would actually be effective in a direct lightning strike on your local electricity or telephone cables. In the UK, the relevant testing is earth loop impedance, not resistance.

Tripp Lite recommends a 2,000 Joules unit for computers with important data. I bet 90% of consumer SPDs are way less than 1,000!
Even with one of the name brand surge protector I doubt if it would protect devices from a direct lightning strike. I also wouldn't be surprised if the company that made the surge protector made one jump through loops to collect on the guarantee.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
I wasn't talking about a direct strike. Many surge protectors seem to be rated at about 300 Joules. Apparently a strike within a kilometer can inject current into you house via the ground connection! Yikes.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3527
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
When your battery was no good... was that circuit breaker bright red by any chance before you replaced the UPS battery?


Okay so if you don't have ground in a location, does that mean even the best surge protector you buy or UPS wouldn't do anything? But if you have ground, then it would? I ask this because the location that I'm at mainly, I don't think there is ground because the construction is very old and certainly don't have that. Also even nicer buildings is the same.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
I don't think there is ground because the construction is very old and certainly don't have that. Also even nicer buildings is the same.
Absolutely. Please get a licensed electrician to look ASAP.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3527
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Okay so if you don't have ground in a location, does that mean even the best surge protector you buy or UPS wouldn't do anything?
Yes. You must get a licensed electrician to check all the electrics ASAP.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Pro 23H2 OS build 22631.3527
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Swift SF114-34
    CPU
    Pentium Silver N6000 1.10GHz
    Memory
    4GB
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    SSD
    Cooling
    fanless
    Internet Speed
    13Mbps
    Browser
    Brave, Edge or Firefox
    Antivirus
    Webroot Secure Anywhere
    Other Info
    System 3

    ASUS T100TA Transformer
    Processor Intel Atom Z3740 @ 1.33GHz
    Installed RAM 2.00 GB (1.89 GB usable)
    System type 32-bit operating system, x64-based processor

    Edition Windows 10 Home
    Version 22H2 build 19045.3570
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.2506
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Mini 210-1090NR PC (bought in late 2009!)
    CPU
    Atom N450 1.66GHz
    Memory
    2GB
Yes, it's the minerals in the water that causes the problem.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
I wasn't talking about a direct strike. Many surge protectors seem to be rated at about 300 Joules. Apparently a strike within a kilometer can inject current into you house via the ground connection! Yikes.
I think you should read your post.
I'm not convinced that most SPDs would actually be effective in a direct lightning strike on your local electricity or telephone cables.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Back
Top Bottom