Do I require a new Activation Key


Can I check what will be my old hardware is listed in my MS account?
Yes. Go to your Microsoft in your browser. Look under Devices. Find the old machine and click on 'See details'. If it shows the full OS details, including build number, as mine does below, the you should be able to use the Activation Troubleshooter on the new build.

1729720949552.png
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Aspire 3 A315-23
    CPU
    AMD Athlon Silver 3050U
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Radeon Graphics
    Monitor(s) Displays
    laptop screen
    Screen Resolution
    1366x768 native resolution, up to 2560x1440 with Radeon Virtual Super Resolution
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung EVO 870 SSD
    Internet Speed
    50 Mbps
    Browser
    Edge, Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    fully 'Windows 11 ready' laptop. Windows 10 C: partition migrated from my old unsupported 'main machine' then upgraded to 11. A test migration ran Insider builds for 2 months. When 11 was released on 5th October 2021 it was re-imaged back to 10 and was offered the upgrade in Windows Update on 20th October. Windows Update offered the 22H2 Feature Update on 20th September 2022. It got the 23H2 Feature Update on 4th November 2023 through Windows Update, and 24H2 on 3rd October through Windows Update by setting the Target Release Version for 24H2.

    My SYSTEM THREE is a Dell Latitude 5410, i7-10610U, 32GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro (and all my Hyper-V VMs).

    My SYSTEM FOUR is a 2-in-1 convertible Lenovo Yoga 11e 20DA, Celeron N2930, 8GB RAM, 256GB ssd. Unsupported device: currently running Win10 Pro, plus Win11 Pro RTM and Insider Dev, Beta, and RP 24H2 as native boot vhdx.

    My SYSTEM FIVE is a Dell Latitude 3190 2-in-1, Pentium Silver N5030, 8GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro, plus the Insider Beta, Dev, Canary, and Release Preview builds as a native boot .vhdx.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Latitude E4310
    CPU
    Intel® Core™ i5-520M
    Motherboard
    0T6M8G
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics card(s)
    (integrated graphics) Intel HD Graphics
    Screen Resolution
    1366x768
    Hard Drives
    500GB Crucial MX500 SSD
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    unsupported machine: Legacy bios, MBR, TPM 1.2, upgraded from W10 to W11 using W10/W11 hybrid install media workaround. In-place upgrade to 22H2 using ISO and a workaround. Feature Update to 23H2 by manually installing the Enablement Package. In-place upgrade to 24H2 using hybrid 23H2/24H2 install media. Also running Insider Beta, Dev, and Canary builds as a native boot .vhdx.

    My SYSTEM THREE is a Dell Latitude 5410, i7-10610U, 32GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro (and all my Hyper-V VMs).

    My SYSTEM FOUR is a 2-in-1 convertible Lenovo Yoga 11e 20DA, Celeron N2930, 8GB RAM, 256GB ssd. Unsupported device: currently running Win10 Pro, plus Win11 Pro RTM and Insider Dev, Beta, and RP 24H2 as native boot vhdx.

    My SYSTEM FIVE is a Dell Latitude 3190 2-in-1, Pentium Silver N5030, 8GB RAM, 512GB NVMe ssd, supported device running Windows 11 Pro, plus the Insider Beta, Dev, Canary, and Release Preview builds as a native boot .vhdx.
Yes. Go to your Microsoft in your browser. Look under Devices. Find the old machine and click on 'See details'. If it shows the full OS details, including build number, as mine does below, the you should be able to use the Activation Troubleshooter on the new build.
Thankyou, see my image below, I think all is in order.
 

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  • Devices.jpg
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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
System image or Clone?

With all the above rebuild I'm about to undertake, time to make a decision.

I intend to use my existing SSD with OS and connect it to my new MB and sort out any activation issues and glitches, if any.

I have two SSD connected to existing MB, ( drive C ) with OS and desktop clutter, files, folders, programs that type of thing, the other ( drive E ) I use to back up what is on the C drive except for the OS.

Both SSDs are the same size in GB terms.

My thinking is to copy and paste all content on the E drive to a spare external SSD.

Then use E drive to store a System Image or Clone of the C drive as a just in case scenario.

But do I make a System Image or Clone of the C drive taking in to account my intention is to reinstall existing C drive with OS and contents to new MB?

Can I use E drive for either of the above methods while it is still internally connected to MB?

What do I do to prepare the E drive in readiness to make it a Clone or create a System Image, I can't format an SSD or shouldn't?

Making a System Image or Clone will it automatically wipe contents on my E drive and no need for me to do anything?

If I create a System Image do I need to make a seperate USB Boot?

See image of my existing drives in Disk Management.
 

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  • Disk Management.jpg
    Disk Management.jpg
    124.4 KB · Views: 2

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
System image or Clone?

With all the above rebuild I'm about to undertake, time to make a decision.

I intend to use my existing SSD with OS and connect it to my new MB and sort out any activation issues and glitches, if any.

I have two SSD connected to existing MB, ( drive C ) with OS and desktop clutter, files, folders, programs that type of thing, the other ( drive E ) I use to back up what is on the C drive except for the OS.

Both SSDs are the same size in GB terms.

My thinking is to copy and paste all content on the E drive to a spare external SSD.

Then use E drive to store a System Image or Clone of the C drive as a just in case scenario.

But do I make a System Image or Clone of the C drive taking in to account my intention is to reinstall existing C drive with OS and contents to new MB?

Can I use E drive for either of the above methods while it is still internally connected to MB?

What do I do to prepare the E drive in readiness to make it a Clone or create a System Image, I can't format an SSD or shouldn't?

Making a System Image or Clone will it automatically wipe contents on my E drive and no need for me to do anything?

If I create a System Image do I need to make a seperate USB Boot?

See image of my existing drives in Disk Management.
If it's a retail copy of Windows you should be able to use it on the new computer - even if activation is required -- it should activate - or if not you'll have to find out if there's any help lines available -- Customer service seems to be a fast disappearing commodity these days !!!.

If it's Windows that was installed with your device i.e usually an OEM copy - then no go (usually).

Sometimes though you can be lucky - a new Mobo doesn't always trigger a re-activation request. I'd suggest you IMAGE rather than clone the current system to your "E" disk.

Cheers
jimbo
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows XP,7,10,11 Linux Arch Linux
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    2 X Intel i7
I would clone the Windows disk on the other and remove it from the computer. Then do the upgrade to motherboard, CPU and RAM and attempt to load Windows. If anything happens you have a clone ready to use plus that you can take any data you need from it in case you lose them from the original disk.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.4249) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
I'd suggest you IMAGE rather than clone the current system to your "E" disk.

Cheers
jimbo
Thanks, why one and not the other?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
I would clone the Windows disk on the other and remove it from the computer. Then do the upgrade to motherboard, CPU and RAM and attempt to load Windows. If anything happens you have a clone ready to use plus that you can take any data you need from it in case you lose them from the original disk.
Do you mean remove E drive before cloning process or after cloning process.

In other words, cloning process, E drive still connect to MB and then remove it for upgrades?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
Thanks, why one and not the other?
If you've got two identical UUID's for boot and partitions the bootloader might get confused as to what one to load - especially if the boot search is via "search by UUID") from the efi file and you don't really want to keep selecting the boot from the BIOS menu to get the right one.. An image usually will save faster and can be restored via stand alone media pretty quickly plus you can use the rest of the disk for data or whatever. A clone is an exact replica of the original - with an image you can restore to any size disk provided it's large enough - so you could restore to a smaller disk if wanted etc.

If the disk is REMOVED from the computer it really doesn't matter - cloning is fine - but remember after a few updates to your new system the cloned version will be massively out of date.

What you can do though is (again if removing the HDD / SSD) set after cloning the "PortableOperatingSystem" to "1" in the registry, and then you can boot the device as a "Windows2Go" system and update it regularly via WU. Then if you need to copy this back to the main PC just set the "PortableOperatingSystem" registry key back to '0' before the copy. Use a SATA->USB3/USBC etc adapter -- plenty around and cheap enough.




Cheers
jimbo
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows XP,7,10,11 Linux Arch Linux
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    2 X Intel i7
Clone the Windows disk (C) to E. After the clone is complete, turn off the computer and remove the clone. Upgrade to the new hardware. Boot original Windows disk and see what happens. If anything goes wrong your files are all available in the clone, plus you can just swap the disks and use the clone, should something really goes bad and you cannot recover the original disk. This will save you the trouble to format and reinstall and is much faster than taking the time to choose what to backup. Also you don't risk forgetting to backup something you might need. In case you decide you have to clean install Windows 11 on the new hardware, all your files as available in the clone, just go ahead.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.4249) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Clone the Windows disk (C) to E. After the clone is complete, turn off the computer and remove the clone. Upgrade to the new hardware. Boot original Windows disk and see what happens. If anything goes wrong your files are all available in the clone, plus you can just swap the disks and use the clone, should something really goes bad and you cannot recover the original disk. This will save you the trouble to format and reinstall and is much faster than taking the time to choose what to backup. Also you don't risk forgetting to backup something you might need. In case you decide you have to clean install Windows 11 on the new hardware, all your files as available in the clone, just go ahead.
Thanks that all makes sense.

Do I need to prepare E drive or just clone to it?

For ease what free Cloning Program would you suggest?

I read free Macrium is no longer or at least no longer supported.

There is free AIOME and EaseUS and imagine they do the same thing, hoping to find a Clone program that will nag me to make regular Cloning, its the one thing I am pretty amiss at undertaking.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
Download Sergei Strelec WinPE ISO. It is like a live Windows 10/11 USB that contains a lot of tools, including cloning tools (Acronis, Macrium and others), in the Backup section.
Use Rufus or other utility to create a bootable USB from the ISO and boot your computer with it. You will see a list including to boot into the Windows 10 or 11 environment with the tools or to run MemTest to check your RAM.

 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.4249) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Thanks, why one and not the other?
If your going to use the existing drive why do you want to clone the drive. For safety reasons you should already have a up to date system image. If not you should make one. I have swapped my system drives in the past and everything worked. The only thing Windows did and did on it's own, was install the needed drivers for the new computer. I didn't lose anything including activation. I can't say for sure it will work 100% for you, but it did for me. The way I see it is that at the worst you may have to download some drivers and/or reactivate Windows.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Swapping drives to a new computer is possible since Windows 7. As soon as there are no major changes to the system (such as from Intel to AMD) that could cause a BSOD. Going from Pentium 4 to Intel Core-i3 worked. Windows 8, 10 and 11 are even less likely to give you a BSOD because they have drivers for most hardware and they adapt easily. BSOD are usually when a system (motherboard component) driver cannot be found.

PS: When I wanted to move the disk to another computer in Windows 98, I first copied the Windows 98 CD-ROM to a folder in the hard disk because without proper drivers, you couldn't even access the CD-ROM. I then loaded Device Manager and manually deleted all devices, yes all. I shutdown the computer and move the disk. Without any drivers Windows 98 acted like the first boot after installation and installed drivers. For those drivers that were missing (graphics, LAN, sound and others), I skipped and installed the manufacturer drivers later. Every time it asked to copy files from the Windows 98 CD-ROM (a lot), I browsed to the folder, until finally I could see the desktop and install the rest drivers. Thankfully I didn't need to delete all drivers in XP. I simply deleted the PCI root driver at the System section to cause Windows XP reinstall all devices.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.4249) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
If your going to use the existing drive why do you want to clone the drive. For safety reasons you should already have a up to date system image. If not you should make one. I have swapped my system drives in the past and everything worked. The only thing Windows did and did on it's own, was install the needed drivers for the new computer. I didn't lose anything including activation. I can't say for sure it will work 100% for you, but it did for me. The way I see it is that at the worst you may have to download some drivers and/or reactivate Windows.
Because ( and I'm not teaching anyone how to suck eggs as I can't ), I'm basically building a new PC, MB, CPU and so on.

I am reinstalling my existing SSD with Win 10 OS but in case something goes wrong/a glitch with the rebuild with activation, cloning will give me an identical copy of my existing SSD/OS.

A system Image more or less does the same thing but with a Clone I can simply install it and hopefully back up and running,--its a backup plan hopefully not to be used.

Once I have successfully rebuilt my PC and re-activated, ( if I have to ) my existing Win OS my intention is to upgrade to Win 11, that will be a clean install,, ( nothing kept ), I will then reinstall all my backed up files/folders/junk to Win 11 and make a clone of my new Win 11 OS installation.

I'm sure it reads and is convoluted and I'm making a meal of it but at least I'm packing a meal so to speak. :-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
Because ( and I'm not teaching anyone how to suck eggs as I can't ), I'm basically building a new PC, MB, CPU and so on.

I am reinstalling my existing SSD with Win 10 OS but in case something goes wrong/a glitch with the rebuild with activation, cloning will give me an identical copy of my existing SSD/OS.

A system Image more or less does the same thing but with a Clone I can simply install it and hopefully back up and running,--its a backup plan hopefully not to be used.

Once I have successfully rebuilt my PC and re-activated, ( if I have to ) my existing Win OS my intention is to upgrade to Win 11, that will be a clean install,, ( nothing kept ), I will then reinstall all my backed up files/folders/junk to Win 11 and make a clone of my new Win 11 OS installation.

I'm sure it reads and is convoluted and I'm making a meal of it but at least I'm packing a meal so to speak. :-)
Nothing wrong with being cautious. I will say that IMO, if you do run into any major problems and have to use the cloned drive you are going to run into the same problem and will probably have to do a clean install.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Nothing wrong with being cautious. I will say that IMO, if you do run into any major problems and have to use the cloned drive you are going to run into the same problem and will probably have to do a clean install.
Yes I had thought of that and you are right but at least I will have a cloned copy, cloning will only get you out of trouble quickly if you haven't changed much, ( hardware/ BSOD failure ), or an update/3rd party download has screwed with your OS, then a system image or clone comes in to its own if a restore doesn't work. :-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
Why you will clean install Windows 11? I would first try to upgrade from Windows 10 to 11. This will save you all the trouble trying to reinstall everything from scratch and backup/restore your files. A clean install never feels the same as your original system. Even if you reinstall all applications there will be some differences and it will take a while to get used to. Also you might not have all the installers to reinstall everything or some licence might not work anymore. Lots of issues and lot of time to complete. I would rather avoid a clean installation and try resolving minor issues after upgrading.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.4249) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.2314)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Why you will clean install Windows 11? I would first try to upgrade from Windows 10 to 11. This will save you all the trouble trying to reinstall everything from scratch and backup/restore your files. A clean install never feels the same as your original system. Even if you reinstall all applications there will be some differences and it will take a while to get used to. Also you might not have all the installers to reinstall everything or some licence might not work anymore. Lots of issues and lot of time to complete. I would rather avoid a clean installation and try resolving minor issues after upgrading.
Yes I do take your point, my reasoning, I suspect I have collected a fair amount of nasties including Keyloggers.

I am pretty good scanning for them, AV, Hitman PRO, Malwarebyte but I know I'm not getting them all.

I can't find a nuclear way of dealing with them on all my drives so a clean install with the OS is my only way I know.

The issue however, a clean install of the OS is fine but as soon as I upload/restore my files/folders, any nasties missed/not dealt with re-infect/replicate, ( many of the above free programs only scan your OS drive ), so really back to square one, there has to be a sure fire way of dealing with them, all drives, on a freebie basis?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master
( many of the above free programs only scan your OS drive ), so really back to square one, there has to be a sure fire way of dealing with them, all drives, on a freebie basis?
Win11 built-in security lets you scan any drive & folder you want.
Just Select Custom under Scan.
The screenshot below demonstrates the scanning of Drive Z:


Screenshot 2024-10-24 172255.png
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. TUF Gaming FX705GM
    CPU
    2.20 gigahertz Intel i7-8750H Hyper-threaded 12 cores
    Motherboard
    ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. FX705GM 1.0
    Memory
    24428 Megabytes
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel(R) UHD Graphics 630 / NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060
    Sound Card
    Intel(R) Display Audio / Realtek(R) Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Integrated Monitor (17.3"vis)
    Screen Resolution
    FHD 1920X1080 16:9
    Hard Drives
    2 SSD SATA/NVM Express 1.3
    WDS500G2B0A-00SM50 500.1 GB
    WDCSDAPNUW-1002 256 GB
    PSU
    19V DC 6.32 A 120 W
    Cooling
    Dual Fans
    Mouse
    MS Bluetooth
    Internet Speed
    Fiber 1GB Cox -us & 400MB Orange-fr
    Browser
    Edge Canary- Firefox Nightly-Chrome Dev
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    VMs of Windows 11 stable/Beta/Dev/Canary
    VM of XeroLinux- Arch based & Debian 12
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Insider Canary
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS X751BP
    CPU
    AMD Dual Core A6-9220
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    AMD Radeon R5 M420
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17.3
    Screen Resolution
    1600X900 16:9
    Hard Drives
    1TB 5400RPM
Win11 built-in security lets you scan any drive & folder you want.
Just Select Custom under Scan.
The screenshot below demonstrates the scanning of Drive Z:
Thankyou Oat, how good is Win 11 built in security does it find/detect everything, so for example keyloggers?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win10 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Ryzen5 4600g
    Motherboard
    Asus Tuf B550-Plus WiFi ll
    Memory
    16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Hard Drives
    2
    PSU
    Corsair 400w
    Case
    Cooler Master

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