Solved HDD click sounds


Sheikh

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Windows 11 Pro 24H2
Hi there!
my laptop has a 1TB HDD WD10SPZX WD Blue which sounds strange after partitioning.
if I don't create any partition, head will not sound until 900GB of writing.
if I create some partitions, it will sound all the time even without writing anything, especially in startup.
no one can hear it, but I can because my room is so quiet.
I know that a disc is orbiting, and a head is moving but how can I solve it?
I think if I create a 900GB partition it won't sound anymore but I need a better solution.
(HDD is wiped with PartedMagic)

thanks
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Huawei MateBook D15
    CPU
    Ryzen 5 3500U
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Vega 8
    Screen Resolution
    FHD
    Hard Drives
    256GB Samsung SSD + 1TB HDD
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 21H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    MSI GS73 6RF Stealth Pro
    CPU
    intel core i7 6700HQ
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce GTX1060 (6GB)
    Screen Resolution
    FHD
    Hard Drives
    128GB SSD + 1TB HDD
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
While all HDDs are not completely silent, my rule of thumb with one that develops any abnormalities in the sound it makes is to exchange it as soon as possible with an SSD. I don't care how a drive is or is not partitioned, loud clicks and grinds is warning you there is a problem with the disk.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 26100.4061
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External drives 512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme+ 4gb Solidigm nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    #1 Edge #2 Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 26100.4061
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Beelink Mini PC SER5
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 6800U
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics card(s)
    integrated
    Sound Card
    integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1TB Crucial nvme
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    System 3 is non compliant Dell 9020 i7-4770/24gb ram Win11 PRO 26100.4061
While all HDDs are not completely silent, my rule of thumb with one that develops any abnormalities in the sound it makes is to exchange it as soon as possible with an SSD. I don't care how a drive is or is not partitioned, loud clicks and grinds is warning you there is a problem with the disk.
Thanks you dear glasskuter.
It has this sound from the first day. after 5 years, S.M.A.R.T is normal, and every HDD health monitoring software shows a 100% health message. so, there is no hardware issues. I think it's an HDD design problem which causes this head clicking sound.
it's not my main storage I have a Samsung NVME SSD for my windows and this HDD as my secondary storage to save everything.
after writing on outer sectors, it starts to sound strange! from 0 to 900GB it's silent :(
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Huawei MateBook D15
    CPU
    Ryzen 5 3500U
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Vega 8
    Screen Resolution
    FHD
    Hard Drives
    256GB Samsung SSD + 1TB HDD
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    ESET Smart Security Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 21H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    MSI GS73 6RF Stealth Pro
    CPU
    intel core i7 6700HQ
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Nvidia Geforce GTX1060 (6GB)
    Screen Resolution
    FHD
    Hard Drives
    128GB SSD + 1TB HDD
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
Hi there!
my laptop has a 1TB HDD WD10SPZX WD Blue which sounds strange after partitioning.
if I don't create any partition, head will not sound until 900GB of writing.
if I create some partitions, it will sound all the time even without writing anything, especially in startup.
no one can hear it, but I can because my room is so quiet.
I know that a disc is orbiting, and a head is moving but how can I solve it?
I think if I create a 900GB partition it won't sound anymore but I need a better solution.
(HDD is wiped with PartedMagic)

thanks
You may wish to go into your BIOS and check to see if SMART is activated. As glasskuter has already stated, if your hard drive is consistently making clicking or grinding sounds this is an indication that the hard drive is on its way out. Yes, some of these drives will operate for years before completely bricking but any data or content that you value should be written to a different drive. No matter how you partition the mechanical drive the condition is physical and your data is at risk. What is likely happening is the head alignment is less than perfect. Even one bad cylinder can produce this issue. Sometimes you can get around this doing what you have already stated, by not making any additional partitions BUT the drive is still flawed. Popping it in a USB enclosure can help some times if you wish to use it as an external drive. The best course of action is to replace the drive in your laptop.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Thanks you dear glasskuter.
It has this sound from the first day. after 5 years, S.M.A.R.T is normal, and every HDD health monitoring software shows a 100% health message. so, there is no hardware issues. I think it's an HDD design problem which causes this head clicking sound.
it's not my main storage I have a Samsung NVME SSD for my windows and this HDD as my secondary storage to save everything.
after writing on outer sectors, it starts to sound strange! from 0 to 900GB it's silent :(
Okay, I was typing my response before you entered your reply to glasskuter. It's a WD BLUE so likely an SMR drive. Again, I'd advise pulling it and using it as an external drive if you want to use it at all. Have you checked it with Crystal Disk?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
If you are familiar with LP records, think it like a deep scratch. While the record might play, eventually you will damage the pickup head. In the case of a mechanical hard disk the scratch worsens every time the head passes and eventually either that point will be unreadable or you will damage the respective head. In any case replace the disk as soon as possible and backup all data while you still can.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.5472) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
I don't care what S.M.A.R.T. shows, when a hard drive is making clicking sounds for no apparent reason, that's a red flag for me. I've had hard drives on my computers since 1978 when they cost half what a car cost. My lifetime experiences tell me that odd noises from the drive is bad news virtually every time you hear them!
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Build 26100.4351, Experience Pack 1000.26100.107.0
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Brew
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 14500
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte B760M G P WIFI
    Memory
    64GB DDR4
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce RTX 4060
    Sound Card
    Chipset Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 45" Ultragear, Acer 24" 1080p
    Screen Resolution
    5120x1440, 1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Crucial P310 2TB 2280 PCIe Gen4 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSD (O/S)
    Silicon Power 2TB US75 Nvme PCIe Gen4 M.2 2280 SSD (backup)
    Crucial BX500 2TB 3D NAND (2nd backup)
    External off-line backup Drives: 2 NVMe 4TB drives in external enclosures
    PSU
    Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 750W
    Case
    LIAN LI LANCOOL 216 E-ATX PC Case
    Cooling
    Lots of fans!
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000
    Mouse
    Logitech G305
    Internet Speed
    Verizon FiOS 1GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Malware Bytes & Windows Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Build 26100.4351 Experience Pack 1000.26100.107.0
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Brew
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 14400
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte B760M DS3H AX
    Memory
    32GB DDR5
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel 700 Embedded GPU
    Sound Card
    Realtek Embedded
    Monitor(s) Displays
    27" HP 1080p
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Crucial P310 2TB 2280 PCIe Gen4 eD NAND PCIe SSD
    Samsung EVO 990 2TB NVMe Gen4 SSD
    Samsung 2TB SATA SSD
    PSU
    Thermaltake Smart BM3 650W
    Case
    Okinos Micro ATX Case
    Cooling
    Fans
    Mouse
    Logitech G305
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000
    Internet Speed
    Verizon FiOS 1GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Malware Bytes & Windows Security
Hi there!
my laptop has a 1TB HDD WD10SPZX WD Blue which sounds strange after partitioning.
if I don't create any partition, head will not sound until 900GB of writing.
if I create some partitions, it will sound all the time even without writing anything, especially in startup.
no one can hear it, but I can because my room is so quiet.
I know that a disc is orbiting, and a head is moving but how can I solve it?
I think if I create a 900GB partition it won't sound anymore but I need a better solution.
(HDD is wiped with PartedMagic)

thanks
Way back when, the clicking sound of a HDD was known as "The click of death." See the post below for more info;

 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Professional
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Microcenter B677
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-9400
    Motherboard
    ASRock H310CM-HDV/M.2
    Memory
    32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Intel Kaby Lake - High Definition Audio / cAVS (Audio, Voice, Speech) [A0]
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Model: GSM59F1
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1080
    Case
    Lian Li 205M
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky AV
The clicking sounds on a mechanical hard disk is like the pickup needle skipping on an LP disc. It always means the disk has some problem. Doesn't matter how severe it is, backup your data and replace it ASAP. Also I have seen cases that the disk doesn't click but it's a lot slower than new. If you check the health in such disk you will see it is very low. Needless to say anything lower than 90% should alert you. Imagine health such as 20% or even 0%.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.5472) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
A one TB hard drive should be cheap to replace.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Build 26100.4351, Experience Pack 1000.26100.107.0
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Brew
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 14500
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte B760M G P WIFI
    Memory
    64GB DDR4
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce RTX 4060
    Sound Card
    Chipset Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 45" Ultragear, Acer 24" 1080p
    Screen Resolution
    5120x1440, 1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Crucial P310 2TB 2280 PCIe Gen4 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSD (O/S)
    Silicon Power 2TB US75 Nvme PCIe Gen4 M.2 2280 SSD (backup)
    Crucial BX500 2TB 3D NAND (2nd backup)
    External off-line backup Drives: 2 NVMe 4TB drives in external enclosures
    PSU
    Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 750W
    Case
    LIAN LI LANCOOL 216 E-ATX PC Case
    Cooling
    Lots of fans!
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000
    Mouse
    Logitech G305
    Internet Speed
    Verizon FiOS 1GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Malware Bytes & Windows Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2, Build 26100.4351 Experience Pack 1000.26100.107.0
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Brew
    CPU
    Intel Core i5 14400
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte B760M DS3H AX
    Memory
    32GB DDR5
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel 700 Embedded GPU
    Sound Card
    Realtek Embedded
    Monitor(s) Displays
    27" HP 1080p
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Crucial P310 2TB 2280 PCIe Gen4 eD NAND PCIe SSD
    Samsung EVO 990 2TB NVMe Gen4 SSD
    Samsung 2TB SATA SSD
    PSU
    Thermaltake Smart BM3 650W
    Case
    Okinos Micro ATX Case
    Cooling
    Fans
    Mouse
    Logitech G305
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000
    Internet Speed
    Verizon FiOS 1GB
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Malware Bytes & Windows Security
A one TB hard drive should be cheap to replace.

For who? A student, someone on a pension, a couple with two jobs, a person with a 6 figure salary?
The cost of something is 100% relative to a persons income and their ability to afford. There are members here, that I haven’t minded helping, who can’t even afford a $15 Windows Pro key from StackSocial.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.5472
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    5 x LG 25MS500-B - 1 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech: G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    1000/400Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
The cost of something is 100% relative to a persons income and their ability to afford. There are members here, that I haven’t minded helping, who can’t even afford a $15 Windows Pro key from StackSocial.
Well what's the cost of not replacing it?

One will have to weigh which one is the lesser of the two.... 🤷‍♂️
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Microsoft Surface Pro
    Memory
    32GB
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad P14s Gen 3 Intel (14”) Mobile Workstation - Type 21AK
    Memory
    32GB
Way back when, the clicking sound of a HDD was known as "The click of death."
That was the very first thing I thought of when I started reading this thread. I'm surprised that the drive is still working 5 years later.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    #1. LG ULTRAWIDE 34" #2. AOC Q32G2WG3 32"
    Screen Resolution
    #1. 3440 X 1440 #2. 1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
That was the very first thing I thought of when I started reading this thread. I'm surprised that the drive is still working 5 years later.
I have an old Toshiba klunk-drive that I gave to one of the girls because it still functions. On startup it clicks like no tomorrow. On system boot it stops. It is as though it won't stop clicking until the OS finds it. SATA II, I think. Must be close to 14 years old. She keeps it in a little black box and calls it Charlie. She feeds Charlie anything she likes but can afford to lose. She insists that Charlie is a family heirloom and cannot be callously disposed of. Besides, she argues, she has a pet allergy and this is about as close as it gets. I suggested that Zero, our pet gecko, should be sufficient but she says that lizard is her sister's and Charlie is older than Zero. There's just no arguing with a 14 year old geek girl who has taken a fancy to an old mechanical hard drive.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
For who? A student, someone on a pension, a couple with two jobs, a person with a 6 figure salary?
The cost of something is 100% relative to a persons income and their ability to afford. There are members here, that I haven’t minded helping, who can’t even afford a $15 Windows Pro key from StackSocial.
'Tis a fact. It's tough times around the globe for sure. Nonetheless a 1TB hard drive these days is relatively cheap. (Especially a mechanical drive.) It's the shipping that gets expensive. Myself, @ 1TB I'd likely stay away from a mechanical hard drive and look for a deal on Amazon. I can't rightly say how many WD Blue mechanical drives I've seen fail within the first year of purchase so I'm inclined to agree with Winuser that it's amazing it even lasted 5 years. IMO they are among the least reliable drives ever sold in Canada.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Here in Greece a new 1TB mechanical HDD is about 55-60€, around the same price of a 480GB-512GB SSD Not really "a fortune", but not everyone would be willing to spend this money for his PC (lowest salary is about 650-700€). However you can also buy a refurbished HDD for half the price or less. A refurbished is not the same as used. Used means you buy it from a friend or other person without Warranty. Refurbished (aka second hand) means you buy it from a shop and while it is used the shop provides some months Warranty. It might be 6 months, it might be 1 year, but it is better than 0.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (build 22631.5472) test laptop, Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351) main PC
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, no SSE4.2, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v24H2 (build 26100.4351)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WD Blue SA510 2.5 1000GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Deepcool Gamma Archer CPU cooler, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
From what I remember reading about a portable audio mini-disc I had (remember them), the clicking noise is when the head has a problem reading the data on the disk and it (slams) moves the head quickly to the park position in order to realign the head which it thinks may be out of alignment. But more often than not, it is the disk surface which is damaged or the disk has become magnetised. Several passes over the same spot (repeated clicks heard) sometimes is enough for the disk to read the data. It's a sign you really need to replace the disk.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Local shop built (KC Computers Ltd)
    CPU
    Intel Core i9 13900F
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X (rev. 1.0/1.1) - (BIOS: F30 Sep 27, 2024)
    Memory
    2 x Kingston Fury 32gb DDR5 5600 Beast
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Eagle (Nvidia) RTX 3060
    Sound Card
    Chord Async USB 44.1kHz - 384kHz 2Qute DAC
    Monitor(s) Displays
    piXL PX27UDH4K 27 Inch Frameless IPS Monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K (3840 x 2160) 60fps
    Hard Drives
    1 x KINGSTON NVMe M.2 SSDSKC3000D2048G 2TB
    1 x Samsung SSD 870 EVO 250GB
    2 x Crucial CT4000MX500SSD1 4TB
    2 x Crucial CT2000MX500SSD1 2TB
    1 x Crucial CT250MX500SSD1 250.0 GB
    PSU
    Gigabyte 750w
    Case
    Fractal Torrent
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU, 2 x Fractal 180mm PWM (front), 3 x Fractal 140mm PWM (bottom)
    Keyboard
    Logitech MX Mechanical Wireless Illuminated Performance Keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3S Wireless Performance Mouse
    Internet Speed
    900 Mbps/300 Mbps Trooli FTTP
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Eset Nod32
Order a replacement
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win11 Pro OEM 24h2 OS Build 26100.4351
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Beelink SER8
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 8845HS
    Motherboard
    AZW SER8 AMD Promontory/Bixby FCH
    Memory
    DDR5-5600 / PC5-44800 DDR5 SDRAM SO-DIMM32G
    Graphics Card(s)
    AMD Radeon 780M
    Sound Card
    AMD Zen - Audio Processor - HD Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1 LG HDR 32"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1TB Crucial NVMe
    2TB Crucial NVME
    WD 1TB SSD SATA to USB3
    1 Seagate BUP Slim 2TB SATA to USB3
    1 Seagate BUP Slim 4TB SATA to USB3
    Samsung SSD 1TB SATA to USB3
    Samsung 500G SATA to USB3
    500G Crucial SSD to USB3
    PSU
    Beelink Proprietary
    Case
    Beelink Proprietary
    Cooling
    Beelink Proprietary
    Keyboard
    Logitech Backlit USB
    Mouse
    Logitech M510
    Internet Speed
    T-Mobile 5G 100+ Mbs
    Browser
    Edge, Firefox, Chrome
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Secutiry
    Other Info
    Microsoft 365 Family Office 18429.20044 CTR
    Macrium X Subscription 5 Copies Version 10.0.8576
    Mini-Tool Ultimate 12.9 Lifetime
    Malwarebytes Premium w/VPN 5.3.2.195 Update 1.0.10001 Component 134.1.5283
    Revo Pro Portable Pro 5.4.0
    Roboform 9.7.5.5
    Thunderbird
    eMail client
    utilities
    Many others. (All legit)
  • Operating System
    Win11 Pro OEM 24h2 OS Build 26100.4202
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Beelink
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 8845HS
    Motherboard
    AMD
    Memory
    32G
    Graphics card(s)
    Beelink SER7
    Sound Card
    Beelink SER7
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell
    Screen Resolution
    Native
    Hard Drives
    1TB Crucial NVMe SSD 2G SATA
    PSU
    Beelink Proprietary
    Case
    Beelink Proprietary
    Cooling
    Beelink Proprietary
    Mouse
    MS
    Keyboard
    gaming keyboard
    Internet Speed
    256
    Antivirus
    Defender Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    Microsoft 365 Family Office 18429.20044 CTR
    Macrium X Subscription1 Version 10.0.8576
    Mini-Tool Ultimate 12.9 Lifetime
    Malwarebytes Premium w/VPN 5.2.9.176 Update 1.0.97801 Component 129.0.5196
    Revo Pro Portable Pro 5.3.7
    Roboform 9.7.3.3
    Many others. (All legit)
Hi,

Sometimes clicking noises are normal. HDD make a clicking noise when retracting the heads. Away from the disk. I have had Western Digital drives do this periodically. They had/have? a scheme where they frequently withdrew the heads to lubricate them. Not saying this is what is happening with yours - just putting that out there. Also the heads make clhattering noises in normal opreation as they move rapidly from place to place.

The heads on a hard drive are not like a needle scratching a record. They float on a cushion of air above the platters that is created from their spinning at high speed. If they touched the platter once your drive would be toast.

How long has it been since you noticed this? I would make a backup of your data as soon as possible if you can.

@Scannerman, the drive chatters a lot when booting because it is accessing a bunch of small files the OS needs that are scattered about the drive so the heads move a lot to read them.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro x64
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY Photoshop/Audio/Game/tinker build
    CPU
    Intel i9 13900KS P/E cores 5.8/4.4 GHz, cache 5.0 GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus ROG Maximus Z790 Dark Hero
    Memory
    96GB (2x48) G.skill Ripjaws 6800 MT/s
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus ROG Strix 4070 Ti OC
    Sound Card
    Bowers & Wilkins 606 S3 speakers; Audiolabs 7000a integrated amp; Logan Martin Sub; Creative Pebble Pro Minimilist
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Eizo CG2730 ColorEdge, ViewSonic VP2768
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440p x 2
    Hard Drives
    WDC SN850X 4TB nvme, SN850 1TB nvme, SK-Hynix 2 TB P41 nvme,. Sabrent USB-C DS-SC5B 5-bay docking station: 6TB WDC Black, 6TB Ironwolf Pro; 2x 2TB WDC Black HDD
    PSU
    850W Seasonic Vertex PX-850 ATX 3.0/PCI-E 5.0
    Case
    Fractal Design North XL Mesh, Black Walnut
    Cooling
    ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 - AIO w/Phanteks T30-120 fans, 2 Noctua NF-A14 Chromax case fan, 1 T30-120 fan cooling memory
    Keyboard
    Keychron Q3 Max TKL with custom GMK Redsuns Red Samuri keycaps, TX Stabs
    Mouse
    Logitech G305 wireless gaming
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s down, 12 Mb/s up
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender, Macrium Reflect X ;-)
    Other Info
    Runs hot. LOL. SP: P116/E93/M93
    Phangkey Amaterasu V2 Desk Mat
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Apple 13" Macbook Pro 2020 (m1)
    CPU
    Apple M1
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1600
    Browser
    Firefox
I also recommend replacing the HDD. Get a one or two TB SDD instead. In my opinion HDDs nowadays are only an option for sizes of 4 TB or more. Below that I'd always get an SSD.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 5950X
    Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK32GX4M2B3200C16 (64 GB)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus ROG Strix 2080Ti
    Sound Card
    Sound Blaster AE-9
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2 x Dell UltraSharp U2413f
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1200
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 990 Pro (2000 GB, M.2 2280)
    Seagate Barracuda Pro (12TB, 3.5")
    Seagate Exos X12 512E (12TB, 3.5")
    WD Red Plus (12 TB, 3.5", CMR)
    Corsair Force MP510 M.2 NVME SSD (1788 GB)
    PSU
    Seasonic Prime Ultra Platinum (1000 W)
    Case
    Corsair Obsidian 750D
    Cooling
    Deepcool GamerStorm Captain 240 Pro (12cm)
    Keyboard
    Logitech G910
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    1000 Mbit/s (synchronous)
    Browser
    Firefox, Vivaldi
    Antivirus
    GDATA Internet Security

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