Help moving win 10 to new win 11 computer


I generally don't like major OS version upgrades either. I did take the original Windows 11 Beta upgrade directly from stable Windows 10, but since then I've only ever cleanly installed and copied over needed data.

Across all devices I've used, I've found more problems and idiosyncrasies on devices that had a major OS upgrade than went away after clean installing than not.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 23H2 Current build
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HomeBrew
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 3950X
    Motherboard
    MSI MEG X570 GODLIKE
    Memory
    4 * 32 GB - Corsair Vengeance 3600 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti XC3 ULTRA GAMING (12G-P5-3955-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek® ALC1220 Codec
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2x Eve Spectrum ES07D03 4K Gaming Monitor (Matte) | Eve Spectrum ES07DC9 4K Gaming Monitor (Glossy)
    Screen Resolution
    3x 3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    3x Samsung 980 Pro NVMe PCIe 4 M.2 2 TB SSD (MZ-V8P2T0B/AM) } 3x Sabrent Rocket NVMe 4.0 1 TB SSD (USB)
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling’s Silencer Series 1050 Watt, 80 Plus Platinum
    Case
    Fractal Design Define 7 XL Dark ATX Full Tower Case
    Cooling
    NZXT KRAKEN Z73 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (3x 120 mm push top) + Air 3x 140mm case fans (pull front) + 1x 120 mm (push back) and 1 x 120 mm (pull bottom)
    Keyboard
    SteelSeries Apex Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3S | MX Master 3 for Business
    Internet Speed
    AT&T LightSpeed Gigabit Duplex Ftth
    Browser
    Nightly (default) + Firefox (stable), Chrome, Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender + MB 5 Beta
  • Operating System
    ChromeOS Flex Dev Channel (current)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Latitude E5470
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6300U CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2501 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
    Motherboard
    Dell
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520
    Sound Card
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520 + RealTek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell laptop display 15"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 * 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 128GB M.2 22300 drive
    INTEL Cherryville 520 Series SSDSC2CW180A 180 GB SATA III SSD
    PSU
    Dell
    Case
    Dell
    Cooling
    Dell
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3S (shared w. Sys 1) | Dell TouchPad
    Keyboard
    Dell
    Internet Speed
    AT&T LightSpeed Gigabit Duplex Ftth
That may be a message to forum users, but ... 99.9% of the masses out there will ask 'bypass what?' 'what is compatility check? etc

My previous message was about the masses come EOL of W10.
That is discussed in the appropriate thread: Let's install Windows 11 on incompatible hardware See last posts for 22H2 version. To save you the trouble, all tricks of 21H2 work, but you must also stay disconnected from the internet for a successful upgrade.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
This way is not as reliable. Upgrading is supposed to make people's lives easier, but it made many people's lives miserable.
If the new hardware is too much different from the old hardware (such as Intel to AMD or vice versa), then the chances of something going wrong or even a BSOD are more, but you can try that and then go to a clean installation. If done correctly, then upgrading is much faster because you only have to update the drivers for the new computer, not reinstall everything. I always try to upgrade first and then do a clean installation. The exception is when the old computer has only a couple of applications (such as Office and Chrome) and isn't worth the extra time it takes to upgrade over a clean installation (without installing any apps). In that case, I install Windows on the same partition without modifying the disk. The old installation goes at Windows.old folder where I can copy all the data I need, so I save the time it would take to backup the data.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
This way is not as reliable. Upgrading is supposed to make people's lives easier, but it made many people's lives miserable.
For crying out loud, it might have made a teeny weeny number of peoples live a misery, but vast majority get no issues.

The nuke it on high and clean install creates issues as well as the standard MS iso often does not have suitable drivers for new devices.

To me a clean install is the LAST THING to try.
If the new hardware is too much different from the old hardware (such as Intel to AMD or vice versa), then the chances of something going wrong or even a BSOD are more, but you can try that and then go to a clean installation. If done correctly, then upgrading is much faster because you only have to update the drivers for the new computer, not reinstall everything. I always try to upgrade first and then do a clean installation. The exception is when the old computer has only a couple of applications (such as Office and Chrome) and isn't worth the extra time it takes to upgrade over a clean installation (without installing any apps). In that case, I install Windows on the same partition without modifying the disk. The old installation goes at Windows.old folder where I can copy all the data I need, so I save the time it would take to backup the data.
Totally agree.

There is very reliable way to transfer OS+progs etc. from one pc to a completely different pc.

1) create custom install.wim of installation on old pc.
2) download drivers required from new pc. Rather than download.ing drivers for new pc, it is often easier to clean install first on new pc and export the drivers
3) inject drivers into install.wim and possibly boot.wim (irst drivers if using nvme)
4) replace boot.wim and install.wim on standard usb installation drive with custom .wims
5) install on new pc

There are excellent tutorials on all these steps in www.tenforums.com (especially custom install.wim step by our resident guru @Kari)

I have done this several times now and it works every time.

My latest laptop is Intel, nvme, Intel graphics etc.
I migrated from a loptop with completely different hardware i.e. AMD, Sata SSD, Radeon Graphics,
Sound and wifi was also different

I find this method even more reliable than Macrium Redeploy which only really considers key drivers. With this method, if you export drivers from a clean install on new pc, you hardly need to update any drivers afterwards in device manager.

The lengthiest step is creating the custom install.wim which can take 15 mins to over 2 hours depending on number of apps, hardware etc.. The rest takes minutes.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro + others in VHDs
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Vivobook 14
    CPU
    I7
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    N/A
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    1 TB Optane NVME SSD, 1 TB NVME SSD
    PSU
    Yep, got one
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois
    Keyboard
    Built in
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wired
    Internet Speed
    72 Mb/s :-(
    Browser
    Edge mostly
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro
EOL of Windows 10 is not the end of the world! It just means no more security updates or new feature support. If you have an updated antivirus and be careful what you click on when online, you should not have any issues. That is as long as there are applications for your everyday usage. It will be much longer than 2025 when Windows 10 will be at the stage you cannot use it. See Windows XP and Vista. You can still use them for office work but you have trouble browsing modern web sites (even with last XP compatible version of Chrome or Firefox) and using Netflix and other apps. I estimate you can use Windows 10 at least up to 2030 before they become unusable like XP or Vista. Until then you will probably also have replaced your computer and won't care.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
EOL of Windows 10 is not the end of the world! It just means no more security updates or new feature support. If you have an updated antivirus and be careful what you click on when online, you should not have any issues. That is as long as there are applications for your everyday usage. It will be much longer than 2025 when Windows 10 will be at the stage you cannot use it. See Windows XP and Vista. You can still use them for office work but you have trouble browsing modern web sites (even with last XP compatible version of Chrome or Firefox) and using Netflix and other apps. I estimate you can use Windows 10 at least up to 2030 before they become unusable like XP or Vista. Until then you will probably also have replaced your computer and won't care.
Security is more than just an anti-virus.

You should say "in my opinion - you should not have issues" as it is opinion, not fact.

In my opinion, hackers are cleverer than the average person. If they can find a loophole, they will exploit it, knowing it will not get fixed.


MS have a big public relations problem after W10 EOL as there will literally be millions of devices not suitable of W11 upgrade, so regrettably users will continue to use these with increased risk.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro + others in VHDs
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Vivobook 14
    CPU
    I7
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    N/A
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    1 TB Optane NVME SSD, 1 TB NVME SSD
    PSU
    Yep, got one
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois
    Keyboard
    Built in
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wired
    Internet Speed
    72 Mb/s :-(
    Browser
    Edge mostly
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0
For crying out loud, it might have made a teeny weeny number of peoples live a misery, but vast majority get no issues.

The nuke it on high and clean install creates issues as well as the standard MS iso often does not have suitable drivers for new devices.

To me a clean install is the LAST THING to try.
I've been installing Windows and upgrading Windows since 1995 and one thing I do is I pay close attention to details when clean installing and upgrading. I've experienced (1) minor negatives being revealed after the upgrade (2) to a buggy upgraded OS (3) to an OS error during installation where number 2 and 3 being the most common. The only time I got number 1 to happen was when I fresh installed the previous OS and immediately installed the newly upgraded OS. The problem is most people don't notice the bugs as those bugs are not interfering with what they use their PC for. However, later on down the line they will experience an issue when installing (for example) a graphics card driver and think the issue was the GPU manufacturer's problem when in fact the upgrade caused this. This usually happens between 5% to 50% of the time (depending on how long they were using their PC before upgrading). Look, the problem is, with all the PCs in this world, there are millions (if not billions) of different configurations of hardware and software that can contribute to a buggy upgrade (let alone the countless Windows updates being installed in the prior OS).

At all the jobs I worked at, we had so much more support issues when upgrading vs when clean installing. This is a fact that most of you guys do not like to admit too.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom Built (ASUS, Intel, Nvidia, Creative Labs, Corsair, Seasonic, Lian Li)
    CPU
    Intel® Core™ i9-9900K
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XI EXTREME
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 128GB (4x32GB) ‎CMW128GX4M4E3200C16
    Graphics Card(s)
    Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 TI Founders Edition
    Sound Card
    Creative Sound Blaster AE-9
    Monitor(s) Displays
    MSI Creator PS321URV 32 Inch HDR600
    Screen Resolution
    3840 x 2160 (4K)
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 Pro 1TB
    Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
    PSU
    Seasonic Prime TX 1000
    Case
    Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL ROG Edition
    Cooling
    ASUS ROG STRIX LC II 360 ARGB AIO, 10x UNI FAN SL-INFINITY Fans
    Keyboard
    Razer Huntsman Elite (Silent keys)
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3s
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s Down and 20 Mb/s Up
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Speakers: Vanatoo Transparent One Encore with a REL HT/1003 Subwoofer
I've been installing Windows and upgrading Windows since 1995 and one thing I do is I pay close attention to details when clean installing and upgrading. I've experienced (1) minor negatives being revealed after the upgrade (2) to a buggy upgraded OS (3) to an OS error during installation where number 2 and 3 being the most common. The only time I got number 1 to happen was when I fresh installed the previous OS and immediately installed the newly upgraded OS. The problem is most people don't notice the bugs as those bugs are not interfering with what they use their PC for. However, later on down the line they will experience an issue when installing (for example) a graphics card driver and think the issue was the GPU manufacturer's problem when in fact the upgrade caused this. This usually happens between 5% to 50% of the time (depending on how long they were using their PC before upgrading). Look, the problem is, with all the PCs in this world, there are millions (if not billions) of different configurations of hardware and software that can contribute to a buggy upgrade (let alone the countless Windows updates being installed in the prior OS).

At all the jobs I worked at, we had so much more support issues when upgrading vs when clean installing. This is a fact that most of you guys do not like to admit too.

I've said almost the exact same thing in either 7F or 10F at one point or another. I just prefer clean installs. Definitely are tricks out there to make it a lot easier to do - but at the end of the day, a clean install eliminates at the very least the potential for a buggy upgrade. You and I, sir, clearly see eye to eye.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 23H2 Current build
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HomeBrew
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 3950X
    Motherboard
    MSI MEG X570 GODLIKE
    Memory
    4 * 32 GB - Corsair Vengeance 3600 MHz
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti XC3 ULTRA GAMING (12G-P5-3955-KR)
    Sound Card
    Realtek® ALC1220 Codec
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2x Eve Spectrum ES07D03 4K Gaming Monitor (Matte) | Eve Spectrum ES07DC9 4K Gaming Monitor (Glossy)
    Screen Resolution
    3x 3840 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    3x Samsung 980 Pro NVMe PCIe 4 M.2 2 TB SSD (MZ-V8P2T0B/AM) } 3x Sabrent Rocket NVMe 4.0 1 TB SSD (USB)
    PSU
    PC Power & Cooling’s Silencer Series 1050 Watt, 80 Plus Platinum
    Case
    Fractal Design Define 7 XL Dark ATX Full Tower Case
    Cooling
    NZXT KRAKEN Z73 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (3x 120 mm push top) + Air 3x 140mm case fans (pull front) + 1x 120 mm (push back) and 1 x 120 mm (pull bottom)
    Keyboard
    SteelSeries Apex Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3S | MX Master 3 for Business
    Internet Speed
    AT&T LightSpeed Gigabit Duplex Ftth
    Browser
    Nightly (default) + Firefox (stable), Chrome, Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender + MB 5 Beta
  • Operating System
    ChromeOS Flex Dev Channel (current)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Latitude E5470
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6300U CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2501 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s)
    Motherboard
    Dell
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520
    Sound Card
    Intel(R) HD Graphics 520 + RealTek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell laptop display 15"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 * 1080
    Hard Drives
    Toshiba 128GB M.2 22300 drive
    INTEL Cherryville 520 Series SSDSC2CW180A 180 GB SATA III SSD
    PSU
    Dell
    Case
    Dell
    Cooling
    Dell
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3S (shared w. Sys 1) | Dell TouchPad
    Keyboard
    Dell
    Internet Speed
    AT&T LightSpeed Gigabit Duplex Ftth
Clean install eliminates a lot of variables when troubleshooting hardware. Can also free up space on the drive and gives the user a fresh start. It can also be considerable work if the user is accustomed to having many programs on their PC and desires that it be set up a certain way. So much of this is determined by user preference. Upgrades usually fail me and I shouldn't be surprised because nothing about my systems are simple. (Unless it's my laptop.) A fresh install can generate other set backs as well. All those various programs and aps don't always return so easily via Windows File History and how often does the Old School Win 7 system image actually work? So it really is about user preference in the end. That said I've had so many upgrades crash and burn on me that I tend to err on the side of caution and simply do a fresh install. This also seems to be Microsoft's official policy also. Every time I call them for help they always recommend this to me so I don't ask them for help anymore because you don't have to call Microsoft to give up on fixing a PC and just reinstall the operating system.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.

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