New External Drive


This is why I use a batch file called by Task Scheduler.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self-built
    CPU
    Intel i7 11700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS Prime Z590-A MB
    Memory
    64GB (Waiting for warranty replacement of another 64GB for 128GB total)
    Graphics Card(s)
    No GPU - Built-in Intel Graphics
    Sound Card
    Integrated
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP Envy 32
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    1 x 1TB NVMe SSD
    1 x 2TB NVMe SSD
    1 x 4TB NVMe SSD
    3 x 512GB 2.5" SSD
    1 x 4TB 2.5" SSD
    5 x 8TB Seagate Barracuda HDD
    PSU
    Corsair HX850i
    Case
    Corsair iCUE RGB 5000X mid tower case
    Cooling
    Noctua NF-S12A chromax.black.swap case fans (Qty. 7) & Home Computer Specifications, Configuration, and Usage Notes General Specifications ASUS Prime Z590-A motherboard, serial number M1M0KC222467ARP Intel Core i7-11700K CPU (11th Gen Rocket Lake / LGA 1200 Socket) 128GB Crucial Ballistix RGB DDR4 3200 MHz DRAM (4 x 32GB) Corsair iCUE RGB 5000X mid tower case Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black CPU cooler Noctua NF-S12A chromax.black.swap case fans (Qty. 7) & Corsair LL-120 RGB Fans (Qty. 3)
    Keyboard
    Corsair K70 Max RGB Magnetic Keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    1Gb Up / 1 Gb Down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    The five 8TB drives and three 512GB SSDs are part of a DrivePool using StableBit DrivePool software. The three SSDs are devoted purely to caching for the 8TB drives. All of the important data is stored in triplicate so that I can withstand simultaneous failure of 2 disks.

    Networking: 2.5Gbps Ethernet and WiFi 6e
  • Operating System
    Win11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkBook 13x Gen 2
    CPU
    Intel i7-1255U
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics
    Sound Card
    Realtek® ALC3306-CG codec
    Monitor(s) Displays
    13.3-inch IPS Display
    Screen Resolution
    WQXGA (2560 x 1600)
    Hard Drives
    2 TB 4 x 4 NVMe SSD
    PSU
    USB-C / Thunderbolt 4 Power / Charging
    Keyboard
    Backlit, spill resistant keyboard
    Mouse
    Buttonless Glass Precision Touchpad
    Internet Speed
    1Gb Up / 1Gb Down
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
    Other Info
    WiFi 6e / Bluetooth 5.1 / Facial Recognition / Fingerprint Sensor / ToF (Time of Flight) Human Presence Sensor
No problem, appreciate the help. I connected the MY book drive I had damaged and it retained the APM settings but the elements does not. I am beginning to regret my purchase but the mybook did not have a 10TB option anymore. I should have bought an internal drive and replaced the 1TB secondary HDD that is in there now but have never replaced an internal drive before
Perhaps I should have paid closer attention. If at all possible I would see what I could do about getting a full refund for that drive. Western Digital MyBook is notorious for issues like this and likely among the worst external spinning backup drives on the retail market. I can almost 100% guarantee you that it is an SMR drive and these are known for consistently losing data and cratering. CMR drives, on the other hand, have a reputation for longevity. For this reason, among others, I don't buy Western Digital mechanical drives apart from "inheriting" them in used purchases which is next to never.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful but this is the voice of experience talking. I've been building and repairing PCs for 25 years now and unless there have been some drastic changes with Western Digital recently their external hard drives are a recipe for disaster. You're better off getting a reliable CMR Drive like an Iron Wolf or even a Toshiba X300 or an N300 particularly if you're using it in an NAS. These can be used in a separate enclosure if you wish. Western Digital makes great silicon for storage but their spinning rust, namely SMR, is a nightmare. Every now and then you will get an exceptional drive from them in this regard. This is the exception and the exception only proves the rule. I know more about MyBook than I want to: Bad bridges and bad hard drives.

Replacing a hard drive in a desktop is generally a straight forward process. There are many "how to" videos on YouTube illustrating how easy it is to swap out a hard drive in a desk top. Temperatures up to 55 ℃ with external drives are not uncommon because they commonly have no cooling solution apart from some open vents. This can be remedied by removing the drive from the encasement and transferring it to an enclosure that uses a fan. Otherwise you can expect those high temperatures that lead to a shorter life span for your spinner.

You may or may not get a different story from someone else here but I know from whence I speak. If your replacement drive is another Western Digital SMR drive and you can't return it then I'd advise cracking the enclosure and moving it some place where it can get ample cooling. If you can't do this then prepare to backup your backup, or, better yet, use it in an enclosure with a switch and only turn it on when you need to use it. I hope this helps. ;-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Perhaps I should have paid closer attention. If at all possible I would see what I could do about getting a full refund for that drive. Western Digital MyBook is notorious for issues like this and likely among the worst external spinning backup drives on the retail market. I can almost 100% guarantee you that it is an SMR drive and these are known for consistently losing data and cratering. CMR drives, on the other hand, have a reputation for longevity. For this reason, among others, I don't buy Western Digital mechanical drives apart from "inheriting" them in used purchases which is next to never.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful but this is the voice of experience talking. I've been building and repairing PCs for 25 years now and unless there have been some drastic changes with Western Digital recently their external hard drives are a recipe for disaster. You're better off getting a reliable CMR Drive like an Iron Wolf or even a Toshiba X300 or an N300 particularly if you're using it in an NAS. These can be used in a separate enclosure if you wish. Western Digital makes great silicon for storage but their spinning rust, namely SMR, is a nightmare. Every now and then you will get an exceptional drive from them in this regard. This is the exception and the exception only proves the rule. I know more about MyBook than I want to: Bad bridges and bad hard drives.

Replacing a hard drive in a desktop is generally a straight forward process. There are many "how to" videos on YouTube illustrating how easy it is to swap out a hard drive in a desk top. Temperatures up to 55 ℃ with external drives are not uncommon because they commonly have no cooling solution apart from some open vents. This can be remedied by removing the drive from the encasement and transferring it to an enclosure that uses a fan. Otherwise you can expect those high temperatures that lead to a shorter life span for your spinner.

You may or may not get a different story from someone else here but I know from whence I speak. If your replacement drive is another Western Digital SMR drive and you can't return it then I'd advise cracking the enclosure and moving it some place where it can get ample cooling. If you can't do this then prepare to backup your backup, or, better yet, use it in an enclosure with a switch and only turn it on when you need to use it. I hope this helps. ;-)
The my book i have was great for 5 years. Only after dropping it had it given me problems. This drive I bought is an elements. If I do send this back what is a good program to wipe the drive
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    12TH gen I7
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Monitor(s) Displays
    28" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1080P
    Hard Drives
    WD 2TB SSD, 1TB WD HDD
... ..., or, better yet, use it in an enclosure with a switch and only turn it on when you need to use it. I hope this helps. ;-)

Or if you have a number of 10 year old MyBooks without built-in power switches (like I do), I hooked them all up to it's own power strip and use the power strip to fire them all up when I need to use them.

I don't leave them powered on all the time, which is probably why they've lasted this long.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Microsoft Surface Pro
    Memory
    32GB
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad P14s Gen 3 Intel (14”) Mobile Workstation - Type 21AK
    Memory
    32GB
The my book i have was great for 5 years. Only after dropping it had it given me problems. This drive I bought is an elements. If I do send this back what is a good program to wipe the drive
Odds are the drive was already on its last legs when you dropped it. There's a huge variety of freeware you can use to wipe hard drives. If you purchased the drive from Amazon and show them pictures sometimes you're not required to return the physical drive but I suppose that only applies to replacement. As for wiping the drive I prefer to use MiniTool Partition Wizard but there are other apps out there that do just as well.

Cheaterslick likely has the best suggestion. You want to be able to air gap your drive when you're not using it. For future reference I recommend looking up the differences between shingled drives and CMR drives if you plan on running mechanical hard drives in the future. Hey, I could be completely wrong and you could have fluked out in the spinner lottery but since you're already having issues with it . . . Well, it's your call.

 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
@Joe Shades

I've never looked at MyBooks as the equivalent of server drives. I turn them off when they not being used. I use some of them more for cold storage than anything else. Others I turn on and off more frequently, but I never leave any of them on 24/7. I'm under no illusions a consumer drive will hold up in the long run doing that.

If you need an external HD to be on all the time, then I would look elsewhere for one, maybe one of the ones @Scannerman suggested in post #22
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Microsoft Surface Pro
    Memory
    32GB
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad P14s Gen 3 Intel (14”) Mobile Workstation - Type 21AK
    Memory
    32GB
Looks like in device manager under power management, allow this computer to turn off device was checked even though in power optiionsi had it set to never turn off hard drives, this is why the APM settings are not staying the way I set it seems
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    12TH gen I7
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Monitor(s) Displays
    28" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1080P
    Hard Drives
    WD 2TB SSD, 1TB WD HDD
No problem, appreciate the help. I connected the MY book drive I had damaged and it retained the APM settings but the elements does not. I am beginning to regret my purchase but the mybook did not have a 10TB option anymore. I should have bought an internal drive and replaced the 1TB secondary HDD that is in there now but have never replaced an internal drive before

I read that you can remove the drive from that casing and use it as an internal. Something to look into?
Warranty will be void though.

Also

There are scripts you could probably run at startup via scheduler to disable APM.



It’s early, so here’s what the Artificial Idiot says:

How to Keep APM Off or Set Automatically​

1. Use CrystalDiskInfo with Auto APM Set​

  • Open CrystalDiskInfo.
  • Go to: Function → Advanced Feature → APM Control → Set it to 192.
  • Then: Function → Resident and Function → Startup (to run at Windows login).
  • This way, CDI will automatically reapply your preferred APM value when Windows boots.

2. Use WD KitFox or Similar Scripted Tools​

  • WD KitFox can automate APM settings via service or scheduled task.
  • Configure it to set your preferred APM (e.g., 192 or 255) at boot or periodically.
  • Make sure it’s running in the background or as a scheduled task with admin rights.

3. Create a Task Scheduler Script​

If you're comfortable with scripting:

Code:
smartctl -s apm,off /dev/sdX
  • (replace /dev/sdX with your actual drive path)
  • Schedule it to run on startup via Windows Task Scheduler.

4. Shuck the Drive (Advanced Option)​

  • If you want full firmware and power control, you could remove the drive from the WD enclosure and connect it via SATA internally or with a better enclosure.
  • Note: This voids warranty and should only be done if you’re comfortable with hardware.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.5624
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    5 x LG 25MS500-B - 1 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech: G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    1000/400Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
Looks like in device manager under power management, allow this computer to turn off device was checked even though in power optiionsi had it set to never turn off hard drives, this is why the APM settings are not staying the way I set it seems

Like I said:

WD external drives (like the WD Elements 10TB) often do not retain APM settings across:
  • System reboots
  • Sleep/wake cycles
  • USB re-plugging
  • Power loss to the drive
This is because the APM setting is not persistent in the drive’s firmware — it's a volatile setting, meaning:

APM must be reapplied every time the drive is powered up.

Technical Reason:​

  • WD’s USB-to-SATA bridge (used inside Elements enclosures) doesn’t store or enforce user APM changes permanently.
  • The drive firmware resets to its default APM level (usually 128 or even 96) on every power cycle.
  • Disabling APM (setting it to 192, 255 or 254) is only active during that session unless something re-applies it automatically.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build 22631.5624
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Sin-built
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770K CPU @ 3.50GHz (4th Gen?)
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus VI Formula
    Memory
    32.0 GB of I forget and the box is in storage.
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super OC 6GB
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    5 x LG 25MS500-B - 1 x 24MK430H-B - 1 x Wacom Pro 22" Tablet
    Screen Resolution
    All over the place
    Hard Drives
    Too many to list.
    OS on Samsung 1TB 870 QVO SATA
    PSU
    Silverstone 1500
    Case
    NZXT Phantom 820 Full-Tower Case
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15 Elite Class Dual Tower CPU Cooler / 6 x EziDIY 120mm / 2 x Corsair 140mm somethings / 1 x 140mm Thermaltake something / 2 x 200mm Corsair.
    Keyboard
    Corsair K95 / Logitech diNovo Edge Wireless
    Mouse
    Logitech: G402 / G502 / Mx Masters / MX Air Cordless
    Internet Speed
    1000/400Mbps
    Browser
    All sorts
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium
    Other Info
    I’m on a horse.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 Build: 22631.4249
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LENOVO Yoga 7i EVO OLED 14" Touchscreen i5 12 Core 16GB/512GB
    CPU
    Intel Core 12th Gen i5-1240P Processor (1.7 - 4.4GHz)
    Memory
    16GB LPDDR5 RAM
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe Graphics Processor
    Sound Card
    Optimized with Dolby Atmos®
    Screen Resolution
    QHD 2880 x 1800 OLED
    Hard Drives
    M.2 512GB
    Antivirus
    Defender / Malwarebytes
    Other Info
    …still on a horse.
Like I said:

WD external drives (like the WD Elements 10TB) often do not retain APM settings across:
  • System reboots
  • Sleep/wake cycles
  • USB re-plugging
  • Power loss to the drive
This is because the APM setting is not persistent in the drive’s firmware — it's a volatile setting, meaning:


Technical Reason:​

  • WD’s USB-to-SATA bridge (used inside Elements enclosures) doesn’t store or enforce user APM changes permanently.
  • The drive firmware resets to its default APM level (usually 128 or even 96) on every power cycle.
  • Disabling APM (setting it to 192, 255 or 254) is only active during that session unless something re-applies it automatically.
Problem it keeps resetting without power cycling the PC and whats worse is my power on count was 20 a few hours ago, now it is 24, it is starting and stopping
Like I said:

WD external drives (like the WD Elements 10TB) often do not retain APM settings across:
  • System reboots
  • Sleep/wake cycles
  • USB re-plugging
  • Power loss to the drive
This is because the APM setting is not persistent in the drive’s firmware — it's a volatile setting, meaning:


Technical Reason:​

  • WD’s USB-to-SATA bridge (used inside Elements enclosures) doesn’t store or enforce user APM changes permanently.
  • The drive firmware resets to its default APM level (usually 128 or even 96) on every power cycle.
  • Disabling APM (setting it to 192, 255 or 254) is only active during that session unless something re-applies it automatically.
Even without system reboot It keeps going back to 128 then shuts down after awhile, looks like my only options are leave it as is and if the drive fails in the next two years it is under warranty or do that write to drive thing
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    12TH gen I7
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Monitor(s) Displays
    28" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1080P
    Hard Drives
    WD 2TB SSD, 1TB WD HDD
As I stated earlier (in so many words) those bridges are bad. Seagate made slightly better external backup drives. I think they were called Backup Plus. At least these drives would "remember" what they were set to. Sometimes they remember too efficiently lol lol. I think I still have a few of those kicking around but I keep them switched off until needed. Budget backup drives are almost always SMR and this alone can and often does present problems down the road.

Shucking the drive usually works if you're wanting to use APM. Two of my daughters have RAID 1 built from shucked drives that were rescued from recycling when the bridges burned out on them and the original owners just tossed them. I just gave them military grade wipes and put them in RAID and viola! Three years later one of the drives failed and I replaced it with an identical drive compliments of Amazon. No hitches on the rewrite, no data lost. Just a thought.

 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K and i9-7960X / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1 and ASUS X299 SAGE
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070 and RTX 3070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious. I'll be working on this.
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    Gave Dell touch screen with Windows 11 to daughter and got me an OTVOC. Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
I downloaded NOSLEEPHD and every 5 minutes it writes to the drive, the drive no longer shuts down and is at 45C so for now problem solved, thanks for the help
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    12TH gen I7
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Monitor(s) Displays
    28" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1080P
    Hard Drives
    WD 2TB SSD, 1TB WD HDD

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