No Signal/Display on TV?


You may not be able to enable HDR when using the battery.
Even basic graphics drains batteries... fast.

And with a 4K TV... who knows? That may just suck the battery right out of the laptop. :D

So to confirm windows do not allow any HDR on battery?
Battery tech sucks so much nowadays. Cant wait for new Solid State Battery tech.

Okay back onto the subject, when gaming on laptop on plug power, how do I optimise the laptop for more fps in windows, because windows could still apply settings for battery optimisation that can affect gaming performance and when I unplug from laptop on battery mode will windows auto revert to battery optimisations settings or do I have to manually change the battery settings back to default battery optimisation myself?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Victus 15-fa1006na
Even if extending the desktop defaults to 1920x1080, you should be able to change it to 3840x2160 or even 4096x2160, depending on your TV native resolution. There is no need to use Second screen only. That said, I noticed that I was distracted by the laptop display so I used Second screen only to switch it off when watching a movie on TV. Also you may have to enable HDR on the TV before enabling it on the laptop. For full performance you must be power connected, do not rely on battery. If the battery is removable you may consider removing it to avoid reducing its capacity due to constant charging.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Even if extending the desktop defaults to 1920x1080, you should be able to change it to 3840x2160 or even 4096x2160, depending on your TV native resolution. There is no need to use Second screen only. That said, I noticed that I was distracted by the laptop display so I used Second screen only to switch it off when watching a movie on TV. Also you may have to enable HDR on the TV before enabling it on the laptop. For full performance you must be power connected, do not rely on battery. If the battery is removable you may consider removing it to avoid reducing its capacity due to constant charging.

Hard to find a modern laptop these days that has a removable battery. My TV supports HDR and its enabled by default when it picks up a HDR signal.

You saying if my laptop is plugged in at all times its fine however if I game all the time while plugged in then I can reduce the life of my laptop battery? This is a gaming laptop so my laptop should have a strong battery right?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Victus 15-fa1006na
It may depend on the laptop. On my laptop for HDR content I can override that setting when on battery.

2023-12-16 13_58_47-Settings.jpg
Hard to find a modern laptop these days that has a removable battery. My TV supports HDR and its enabled by default when it picks up a HDR signal.

You saying if my laptop is plugged in at all times its fine however if I game all the time while plugged in then I can reduce the life of my laptop battery? This is a gaming laptop so my laptop should have a strong battery right?
Why do say the battery is not removable? Hard to remove is more like it.
I have two laptops
  • Acer Swift 3 (2018)
  • ASUS TUF Gaming A15 (2022)
If I had to I could replace the battery in either of them. The Acer laptop would take 15-30 minutes to get to the battery while the ASUS laptop would take maybe 5 minutes.

Have you looked for the HDR setting I showed in my last post? If you have this setting then leave it on battery saver if you are worried about the battery. Otherwise, switch to better image quality and don't worry about running down the battery faster.

I decreased the ASUS laptop battery max charge to 80% to increase the battery life. The problem is then I would only able to run it on its battery for less then 2 hours. Now it back on max charge of 100%. The same for HDR. I will use it or not. Battery life will have nothing to do with whether I use it or not. I would rather buy a new battery when the time comes.

A friend of mine removed his laptop battery because he said he didn't want to wear it out. The problem is when he put the battery back in a year later it was totally dead and wouldn't take a charge. I guess he didn't save anything.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS TUF Gaming A15 (2022)
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 6800H with Radeon 680M GPU (486MB RAM)
    Memory
    Micron DDR5-4800 (2400MHz) 16GB (2 x 8GB)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA RTX 3060 Laptop (6GB RAM)
    Sound Card
    n/a
    Monitor(s) Displays
    15.6-inch
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080 300Hz
    Hard Drives
    2 x Samsung 980 (1TB M.2 NVME SSD)
    PSU
    n/a
    Mouse
    Wireless Mouse M510
    Internet Speed
    1200Mbps/250Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Malwarebytes
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom build
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME X370-PRO
    Memory
    G.SKILL Flare X 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX3060TI-08G-V2-GAMING (RTX 3060-Ti, 8GB RAM)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S23A300B (23-in LED)
    Screen Resolution
    1080p 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    2TB XPG SX8200 Pro (M2. PCIe SSD) || 2TB Intel 660P (M2. PCIe SSD) ||
    PSU
    Corsair RM750x (750 watts)
    Case
    Cooler Master MasterCase 5
    Cooling
    Corsair H60 AIO water cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech K350 (wireless)
    Keyboard
    Logitech M510 (wireless)
    Internet Speed
    1200 Mbps down / 200 Mbps up
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge, Chrome
    Antivirus
    Malwarebytes (Premium)
    Other Info
    ASUS Blu-ray Burner BW-16D1HT (SATA) || Western Digital Elements 12TB USB 3.0 external hard drive used with Acronis True Image backup software || HP OfficeJet Pro 6975 Printer/Scanner
Even if extending the desktop defaults to 1920x1080, you should be able to change it to 3840x2160 or even 4096x2160, depending on your TV native resolution.
Unfortunately, that functionality is still so badly broken in Windows AFAIK that it's just a total waste of time even trying to use it (IME anyway). I.e., for the "Extend" option to work right, the display resolution, the vertical refresh frequency and the Scale setting all need to be kept identical for both the primary and the secondary display.

Even if it does work with different display resolutions, i.e., 3840x2160 @ 60p Hz for the TV, 1920x1080 @ 60p Hz for the built-in display, it still doesn't solve my problem of needing to set the Scale to 150% for the TV versus 125% for the built-in display, as doing so causes it to suffer from what I like call Microsoft sickness aka "Plug and Pray" = the usability falls below zero and that's it, go on the Feedback Hub and keep praying for 10 years (probably longer).
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus TUF Gaming (2024)
    CPU
    i7 13650HX
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce RTX 4060 Mobile
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Cooling
    2× Arc Flow Fans, 4× exhaust vents, 5× heatpipes
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
  • Operating System
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Medion S15450
    CPU
    i5 1135G7
    Memory
    16GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    2TB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
So hdmi cables cannot tolerate flexes in its length or at its ends (the cable part)?

AVimg_32446.jpg

Use HDR setting is greyed out and above it windows says HDR is supported however HDR video streaming is not supported and below it windows says to help improve battery life, support for hdr games and apps is turned off temporarily. Okay how do I enable all hdr features for laptop on battery mode?
I don't use any HDR video streaming services, and I have abandoned gaming a very long time ago. I never owned a gaming console despite that Sony touted my TV "the best TV for the PlayStation 5" when it first came out. Also, my TV happens to be world's first Google TV. That's why I always keep the ethernet cable unplugged from it, and its WiFi turned off. :LOL: I'll occasionally watch a 4k Blu-ray movie with HDR by using K-Lite Codec Pack Full (MPC-HC + madVR, which supports HDR).

As for the battery, I use it mainly as a replacement for a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply). I buy a whole new laptop every ~3 years, as choosing to build my own desktop PC so that I would then be able to upgrade it from time to time would not turn out to be more cost effective in the long run. At least not for how I currently use my laptop, it wouldn't.

Off topic: to get me back to gaming, they'd first have to come up with a truly exciting MMO (massively multiplayer online game) that isn't fraught with exploits and cheats nor is P2W (pay to win) or etc.. By the time Vivendi was about to buy Blizzard, World of Warcraft had already turned to Power Rangers... playing my PvE rogue in Heroic instances before they got nerfed to all hell (and back) used to be hardcore fun. No, we didn't need no stinking badges, but the rewards certainly were nice... 😲 I really miss that a lot sometimes, and in fact it makes me nostalgic, but still refused to get Classic WoW because I don't trust Blizzard. Another game I used to play online all day (and night) was Halo PC. The original Halo Combat Evolved, that is. Now look what's happening to Bungie.

It's a very sad state of affairs IMO, but that was my point... in die hard gaming online if you are a devoted player who spends a lot of time and hard effort trying to improve skills and are making reasonably good progress you can deeply enjoy challenging teamplay, but in the end the reward system is still going to be just another poor joke. E.g., in vanilla WoW (I bought the game on release day in Europe) my guild broke up and none of the other good guilds on my PvE server were still hiring rogues of course. I never really wanted to play another class besides rogue so, game over for me then. Next, when I got back on WoW the day when The Burning Crusade came out, things were more or less OK at first, and, like I said, became truly excellent at times... but still nowhere nearly always frequently enough to be able to avoid lengthy periods of just trying to kill boredom a lot. Anyway, sorry for the long rant.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus TUF Gaming (2024)
    CPU
    i7 13650HX
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce RTX 4060 Mobile
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Cooling
    2× Arc Flow Fans, 4× exhaust vents, 5× heatpipes
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
  • Operating System
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Medion S15450
    CPU
    i5 1135G7
    Memory
    16GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    2TB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
By "removable" battery I mean "user removable" which simply unlocks from the bottom without having to open the case. I am not sure, but I would swear I could have 1366x768 60Hz 100% scaling on my laptop's display and 1920x1080 60Hz 150% scaling on my TV. Are you sure you cannot set the scaling independently on each monitor? Even if the default is that of the primary monitor, you should be able to change it on the secondary without affecting the primary monitor.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Are you sure you cannot set the scaling independently on each monitor? Even if the default is that of the primary monitor, you should be able to change it on the secondary without affecting the primary monitor.
You can change the Scale setting independently, yes of course. But if you do, the whole Windows UI just starts falling apart, like catching a virus with worse symptoms than when you try to set a Custom scaling.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Asus TUF Gaming (2024)
    CPU
    i7 13650HX
    Memory
    16GB DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    GeForce RTX 4060 Mobile
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    512GB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Cooling
    2× Arc Flow Fans, 4× exhaust vents, 5× heatpipes
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
  • Operating System
    11 Home
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Medion S15450
    CPU
    i5 1135G7
    Memory
    16GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel Iris Xe
    Sound Card
    Eastern Electric MiniMax DAC Supreme; Emotiva UMC-200; Astell & Kern AK240
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia XR-55X90J
    Screen Resolution
    3840×2160
    Hard Drives
    2TB SSD internal
    37TB external
    PSU
    Li-ion
    Mouse
    Logitech G402
    Keyboard
    Logitech K800
    Internet Speed
    20Mbit/s up, 250Mbit/s down
    Browser
    FF
Haven't done it, so I cannot confirm it.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Hi coming back here with a update: HDR on my gaming laptop only works if laptop is plugged in not on battery power.

Received new hdmi cable and its all good and working.

Many thanks for your help guys :D
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Victus 15-fa1006na
Maybe is better in Windows 11, but I remember enabling HDR in Windows 10 a couple of years ago on a friend's computer connected on a big curved TV via HDMI. The desktop colors were washed out and the text of the icons was not very clear. The overall picture was worse than without HDR. It was getting late and I didn't want to waste more time to investigate so I just switched off HDR. So I recommend to test it and if you don't get a satisfactory picture turn it off and use it only in games and movies.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
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