The saga of my CMOS battery replacement


Senecio

Well-known member
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8:50 PM
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362
Location
Yorkshire
OS
Windows 11
I thought my experiences this morning might cheer some of you up, so here goes:
For about six months HPInfo64 has been telling me that my CMOS battery is running at about 2.2v rather than the official 3v. Not to worry, I thought, let's see how far it gets. Anyway last week it was 1.9v and things booting up fine. Clock fine, all devices working. There was an ominous grunt or two at start up, which didn't sound like a BIOS beep, but no problem. Anyway, yesterday it went down to 1.3v and I cracked. This morning new battery time. I carefully disconnect all peripherals, telling myself I can remember which of the several others from previous experiments (e.g. an HDMI cable) will not be needed when I reconnect. I carry the PC into a nearby room with a table, so I don't damage my back by bending over the PC. Vacuum clean the floor under the normal PC location to remove a few bits of shredded paper and dust.
Unfortunately, my CMOS battery lives happily right underneath the rather large Nvidia 2800 gpu. So that has to come out. My case, lovely in many respects, is a bit small for that graphics card, and a lot of cajoling is required to remove it. I disconnect the PCIe connectors and the USB 3 case connector. A case fan connector, which I didn't notice at first comes out on its own. :unsure:
The toolless thingies that hold the gpu in place come up easily enough, but flop back down when not held up. I wriggle the gpu manfully, and lo and behold it comes out. Just a moment, what's that bit of plastic which is in the bottom of the case. Yes it's the little lever which holds the gpu in place. Amazingly it isn't broken, and can be refitted (Well done Gigabyte). The CMOS battery is swiftly replaced, once I realise that the little red sticker of a baby on the underside of the battery (telling me the battery tastes horrible) IS in fact a sticker and not just part of the battery, so should be removed.
Now for the herculean task of replacing the graphics card. Amazingly, this goes just fine. I put the two PCIe power connectors back, and the USB3 connector, and the little case fan connector. Ha! You thought I was going to forget something, didn't you? :geek:
So, back to the office carrying the rather heavy PC, plug everything in. Switch on. No beep. Fans spin up. Nothing on screen. Then after a worrying couple of minutes, I get a message on screen which says 'connect PCIe power connectors to GPU. BUT I DID!!!!
So here we go again. Feeling rather irritated, I turn off. Unplug everything. Knock over the shredder which lives next to the PC scattering bits of paper on the floor. Pick up 274 bits of shredded paper. Open up PC again. Examine PCIe connectors. Discover that one of them is an 8pin and the other a 6pin, and not both 6pins as I had assumed before. Reconnect both. Replace cover. Plug everything back in. Switch on. Everything works apart from mouse. Turns out the mouse cable is a bit short, and had retired behind a cupboard next to PC. Have another USB connected, which doesn't appear to do anything. Replace mystery USB with mouse connector and all is well. Reinstall UEFI profile, and here I am telling you.
TLDR A 5 minute job can take 2 hours and involve unexpected additional tasks.
If anybody knows what that other USB connector is for, please send me a postcard. :-)
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built
    CPU
    Ryzen 3900x
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Master x570 rel 1.0
    Memory
    32GB (2x16) @ 3600 MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2080
    Sound Card
    No separate sound card.
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2718Q
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    1TB WD-Black SN850; 1TB Samsung Sata 850 Evo; 4 TB WD Blue Sata SA510 2.5''; 4TB Samsung Sata SSD 870 EVO 2.5".
    PSU
    Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 750W
    Case
    Lian Li PC-8FIB
    Cooling
    CPU: Noctua NH-U12A; Case: BeQuiet + Lian Li fans.
    Keyboard
    Steelseries Apex 7 brown keys.
    Mouse
    Logitech (wired) G403
    Internet Speed
    940 Mb/s down; 105 Mb/s up
    Browser
    Edge (Chromium)
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Pioneer blu-ray optical drive.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7373 2-in-1
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 8th Generation
    Motherboard
    Dell 0HG1FH (U3E1)
    Memory
    8GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel UHD Graphics 620 (Dell)
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio (on motherboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Touch screen generic monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    256GB Micron SATA SSD.
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Dell says this system is not Windows 11 capable, but Microsoft seems happy with it.
I'm sure you're all wondering who worked out what the other USB connector was:

My letterbox has been bulging with a postcard from a Mrs Trellis of North Wales.
She writes:

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you...
I was having trouble with my internet at the farm, so I moved the modem to the barn.
Now I have stable wifi.

Anyway, I read about your problem and decided it had to be an external floppy disk drive.

Yours, Mrs Trellis

PS Don't use "beef stew" as a computer password. It's not stroganoff.


For those outside the UK, who may not have heard of the redoubtable Mrs Trellis, her web page is to be found here: Mrs Trellis of North Wales - Welcome to the official Mrs Ivy Trellis website

Of course, I don't have an external floppy disk drive (or at least not connected any more). It was in fact a USB connection to an external hard disk caddy. Thank you Mrs Trellis.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built
    CPU
    Ryzen 3900x
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Master x570 rel 1.0
    Memory
    32GB (2x16) @ 3600 MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2080
    Sound Card
    No separate sound card.
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2718Q
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    1TB WD-Black SN850; 1TB Samsung Sata 850 Evo; 4 TB WD Blue Sata SA510 2.5''; 4TB Samsung Sata SSD 870 EVO 2.5".
    PSU
    Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 750W
    Case
    Lian Li PC-8FIB
    Cooling
    CPU: Noctua NH-U12A; Case: BeQuiet + Lian Li fans.
    Keyboard
    Steelseries Apex 7 brown keys.
    Mouse
    Logitech (wired) G403
    Internet Speed
    940 Mb/s down; 105 Mb/s up
    Browser
    Edge (Chromium)
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Pioneer blu-ray optical drive.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7373 2-in-1
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 8th Generation
    Motherboard
    Dell 0HG1FH (U3E1)
    Memory
    8GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel UHD Graphics 620 (Dell)
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio (on motherboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Touch screen generic monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    256GB Micron SATA SSD.
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Dell says this system is not Windows 11 capable, but Microsoft seems happy with it.
I thought my experiences this morning might cheer some of you up, so here goes:
For about six months HPInfo64 has been telling me that my CMOS battery is running at about 2.2v rather than the official 3v. Not to worry, I thought, let's see how far it gets. Anyway last week it was 1.9v and things booting up fine. Clock fine, all devices working. There was an ominous grunt or two at start up, which didn't sound like a BIOS beep, but no problem. Anyway, yesterday it went down to 1.3v and I cracked. This morning new battery time. I carefully disconnect all peripherals, telling myself I can remember which of the several others from previous experiments (e.g. an HDMI cable) will not be needed when I reconnect. I carry the PC into a nearby room with a table, so I don't damage my back by bending over the PC. Vacuum clean the floor under the normal PC location to remove a few bits of shredded paper and dust.
Unfortunately, my CMOS battery lives happily right underneath the rather large Nvidia 2800 gpu. So that has to come out. My case, lovely in many respects, is a bit small for that graphics card, and a lot of cajoling is required to remove it. I disconnect the PCIe connectors and the USB 3 case connector. A case fan connector, which I didn't notice at first comes out on its own. :unsure:
The toolless thingies that hold the gpu in place come up easily enough, but flop back down when not held up. I wriggle the gpu manfully, and lo and behold it comes out. Just a moment, what's that bit of plastic which is in the bottom of the case. Yes it's the little lever which holds the gpu in place. Amazingly it isn't broken, and can be refitted (Well done Gigabyte). The CMOS battery is swiftly replaced, once I realise that the little red sticker of a baby on the underside of the battery (telling me the battery tastes horrible) IS in fact a sticker and not just part of the battery, so should be removed.
Now for the herculean task of replacing the graphics card. Amazingly, this goes just fine. I put the two PCIe power connectors back, and the USB3 connector, and the little case fan connector. Ha! You thought I was going to forget something, didn't you? :geek:
So, back to the office carrying the rather heavy PC, plug everything in. Switch on. No beep. Fans spin up. Nothing on screen. Then after a worrying couple of minutes, I get a message on screen which says 'connect PCIe power connectors to GPU. BUT I DID!!!!
So here we go again. Feeling rather irritated, I turn off. Unplug everything. Knock over the shredder which lives next to the PC scattering bits of paper on the floor. Pick up 274 bits of shredded paper. Open up PC again. Examine PCIe connectors. Discover that one of them is an 8pin and the other a 6pin, and not both 6pins as I had assumed before. Reconnect both. Replace cover. Plug everything back in. Switch on. Everything works apart from mouse. Turns out the mouse cable is a bit short, and had retired behind a cupboard next to PC. Have another USB connected, which doesn't appear to do anything. Replace mystery USB with mouse connector and all is well. Reinstall UEFI profile, and here I am telling you.
TLDR A 5 minute job can take 2 hours and involve unexpected additional tasks.
If anybody knows what that other USB connector is for, please send me a postcard. :-)
A lot of modern laptops do not have removable CMOS batteries and many just use permanently fixed rechargeable batteries. Not sure what you do if these ever wear out LOL.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro + others in VHDs
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Vivobook 14
    CPU
    I7
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    N/A
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    1 TB Optane NVME SSD, 1 TB NVME SSD
    PSU
    Yep, got one
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois
    Keyboard
    Built in
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wired
    Internet Speed
    72 Mb/s :-(
    Browser
    Edge mostly
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0
many just use permanently fixed rechargeable batteries.
I would hope this might change with the 'right to repair' legislation.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built
    CPU
    Ryzen 3900x
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Master x570 rel 1.0
    Memory
    32GB (2x16) @ 3600 MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2080
    Sound Card
    No separate sound card.
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2718Q
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    1TB WD-Black SN850; 1TB Samsung Sata 850 Evo; 4 TB WD Blue Sata SA510 2.5''; 4TB Samsung Sata SSD 870 EVO 2.5".
    PSU
    Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 750W
    Case
    Lian Li PC-8FIB
    Cooling
    CPU: Noctua NH-U12A; Case: BeQuiet + Lian Li fans.
    Keyboard
    Steelseries Apex 7 brown keys.
    Mouse
    Logitech (wired) G403
    Internet Speed
    940 Mb/s down; 105 Mb/s up
    Browser
    Edge (Chromium)
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Pioneer blu-ray optical drive.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7373 2-in-1
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 8th Generation
    Motherboard
    Dell 0HG1FH (U3E1)
    Memory
    8GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel UHD Graphics 620 (Dell)
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio (on motherboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Touch screen generic monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    256GB Micron SATA SSD.
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Dell says this system is not Windows 11 capable, but Microsoft seems happy with it.

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10 Pro + others in VHDs
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    ASUS Vivobook 14
    CPU
    I7
    Motherboard
    Yep, Laptop has one.
    Memory
    16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Integrated Intel Iris XE
    Sound Card
    Realtek built in
    Monitor(s) Displays
    N/A
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    1 TB Optane NVME SSD, 1 TB NVME SSD
    PSU
    Yep, got one
    Case
    Yep, got one
    Cooling
    Stella Artois
    Keyboard
    Built in
    Mouse
    Bluetooth , wired
    Internet Speed
    72 Mb/s :-(
    Browser
    Edge mostly
    Antivirus
    Defender
    Other Info
    TPM 2.0
It's related to the 'green agenda' in an attempt to reduce the amount of perfectly good digital devices (and other electronic equipment) being dumped in landfill simply because it can't be repaired. There have been initatives in the USA, the EU and the UK. You can read all about it here: Right to repair - Wikipedia
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built
    CPU
    Ryzen 3900x
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Master x570 rel 1.0
    Memory
    32GB (2x16) @ 3600 MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2080
    Sound Card
    No separate sound card.
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell U2718Q
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    1TB WD-Black SN850; 1TB Samsung Sata 850 Evo; 4 TB WD Blue Sata SA510 2.5''; 4TB Samsung Sata SSD 870 EVO 2.5".
    PSU
    Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 750W
    Case
    Lian Li PC-8FIB
    Cooling
    CPU: Noctua NH-U12A; Case: BeQuiet + Lian Li fans.
    Keyboard
    Steelseries Apex 7 brown keys.
    Mouse
    Logitech (wired) G403
    Internet Speed
    940 Mb/s down; 105 Mb/s up
    Browser
    Edge (Chromium)
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Pioneer blu-ray optical drive.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Inspiron 7373 2-in-1
    CPU
    Intel Core i7 8th Generation
    Motherboard
    Dell 0HG1FH (U3E1)
    Memory
    8GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    Intel UHD Graphics 620 (Dell)
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio (on motherboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Touch screen generic monitor
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    256GB Micron SATA SSD.
    Browser
    Edge Chromium
    Antivirus
    Eset Internet Security
    Other Info
    Dell says this system is not Windows 11 capable, but Microsoft seems happy with it.

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