Drive stops being recognized during large file transfer


yeah ysplit dual power usb cables are just another option. a powered usb hub is the same, except it plugs into the wall and supplies multiple usb ports with external power. in this scenario, no difference.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
yeah ysplit dual power usb cables are just another option. a powered usb hub is the same, except it plugs into the wall and supplies multiple usb ports with external power. in this scenario, no difference.

I guess if it's true that the hub would supply more power than the USB standard specifies then it would work. Have the check the specs of the hub to be sure.

It says 1 amp, so even USB 3.0 wouldn't quite be enough. But I used the Y cable for a long time without a problem.

20250201_001040.webp
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
before I buy anything is there any way I can be more certain it is the power that is the issue?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
before I buy anything is there any way I can be more certain it is the power that is the issue?

Try it on another pc that might have more power.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Intel
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-14900K
    Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite X WIFI7
    Memory
    Corsair 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 5600MT/S CL40 Memory Kit
    Graphics Card(s)
    Onboard
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    43 inch 4k
    Screen Resolution
    2k (2560 x 1440)
    Hard Drives
    WD_BLACK 1TB NVMe SSD with Heatsink 7300 mb/s
    PSU
    MEG Ai1300P PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 PSU 1300 watts
    Case
    Phanteks (PH-ES614PTG_BK) Enthoo Pro ATX , Tempered Glass, Integrated RGB Lighting
    Cooling
    ENERMAX LIQMAXFLO 360mm A-RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
    Keyboard
    Wireless logitech
    Mouse
    Wireless logitech
I will buy a power thing. The one reason I'm really surprised if it's power that is the issue - my old PC did it just fine, and that was an awful 2011 PC. How is it doing worse for power on the USB than a modern one????
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
save the following as a .ps1 file. launch powershell as admin, browse to and run .ps1. then go into advanced power settings and check this setting:

1738461964499.webp

Code:
#Requires -RunAsAdministrator
# Unlock-PowerCfg - v22.05.11

# Disable "Connected Standby"
Set-ItemProperty -Path 'HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power' -Name 'CSEnabled' -Value 0 -Force

# Get Power Settings entries and add/set 'Attributes' to 2 to unhide
$PowerCfg = (Get-ChildItem 'HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings' -Recurse).Name -notmatch '\bDefaultPowerSchemeValues|(\\[0-9]|\b255)$'
foreach ($item in $PowerCfg) { Set-ItemProperty -Path $item.Replace('HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE','HKLM:') -Name 'Attributes' -Value 2 -Force }
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro
save the following as a .ps1 file. launch powershell as admin, browse to and run .ps1. then go into advanced power settings and check this setting:

View attachment 123998

Code:
#Requires -RunAsAdministrator
# Unlock-PowerCfg - v22.05.11

# Disable "Connected Standby"
Set-ItemProperty -Path 'HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power' -Name 'CSEnabled' -Value 0 -Force

# Get Power Settings entries and add/set 'Attributes' to 2 to unhide
$PowerCfg = (Get-ChildItem 'HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings' -Recurse).Name -notmatch '\bDefaultPowerSchemeValues|(\\[0-9]|\b255)$'
foreach ($item in $PowerCfg) { Set-ItemProperty -Path $item.Replace('HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE','HKLM:') -Name 'Attributes' -Value 2 -Force }
worked in changing the setting. the first file downloaded even faster. it still did that crash down to 0 thing again and then eventually failed.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
I'm not a fan of USB powered drives - far better to have a mains powered one.
As people tend to jiggle USB plus when installing and removing them that can cause solder joint failures on the connector which could manifest as a problem after a period of use and things heat up, and could also be responsible for the drive disappearing.
Tip: use a short USB cable (6" long) to plug into rather than the port on your pc. Cheaper to fix than a motherboard...
Bear in mind too that this is an OLD issue AND affects Mac and Linux users too so best to look for a common factor.
Power settings are a red herring as they aren't relevant while transferring data, only when idle.
One thing to check (as per the old days) is for IRQ conflicts - check under device manager / drive controller.
It's best for drives to have a dedicated IRQ rather than share it, and this has and definitely can cause issues.
There was a case where an audio device shared an IRQ with a HDD and the HDD kept disappearing. Switched to a different IRQ and bye-bye problem.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    LG
    CPU
    i7 Ultra
    Memory
    16GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel
    Sound Card
    Intel Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Laptop 17" & TB4 Dell 27" QHD Ultrasharp w/integral TB4 hub
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1600
    Hard Drives
    1TB SSD, 5 external WDs
    Mouse
    Logitech Master MX 3S
    Browser
    Vivaldi
    Antivirus
    Kaspersky Premium Suite
i tried this and it seems to be working (it has been transferring large files for 20 minutes and hasn't disconnected yet). It still does the weird transfer speed falling to 0 thing, but it waits a while and then comes back. I wonder what causes that.

edit: lol right after i said that it disconnected. well, it lasted longer this time

Yup, I've had to go into Device Manager and untick all those power and sleep settings from every entry in there. And not just the USB one's, either. Many have that Power Management Tab setting so you'd have to go through them one by one to see which ones do and which one's don't. Then untick every sleep box you can find.

There was another thread about this not too long ago...


And using the powercfg -devicequery wake_armed command was a big help in tracking down any of the ones that I missed.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Microsoft Surface Pro
    Memory
    32GB
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Lenovo ThinkPad P14s Gen 3 Intel (14”) Mobile Workstation - Type 21AK
    Memory
    32GB
OK, so should I just buy a power supply for the drive? how does that work? Can it handle multiple drives? any recommendations?

i am still confused why my better PC has this power draw issue but my old one did not.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    #1. LG ULTRAWIDE 34" #2. AOC Q32G2WG3 32"
    Screen Resolution
    #1. 3440 X 1440 #2. 1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Keyboard
    Logitek K270
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender
I'm not a fan of USB powered drives - far better to have a mains powered one.
As people tend to jiggle USB plus when installing and removing them that can cause solder joint failures on the connector which could manifest as a problem after a period of use and things heat up, and could also be responsible for the drive disappearing.
Tip: use a short USB cable (6" long) to plug into rather than the port on your pc. Cheaper to fix than a motherboard...
Bear in mind too that this is an OLD issue AND affects Mac and Linux users too so best to look for a common factor.
Power settings are a red herring as they aren't relevant while transferring data, only when idle.
One thing to check (as per the old days) is for IRQ conflicts - check under device manager / drive controller.
It's best for drives to have a dedicated IRQ rather than share it, and this has and definitely can cause issues.
There was a case where an audio device shared an IRQ with a HDD and the HDD kept disappearing. Switched to a different IRQ and bye-bye problem.
The menu shows no conflicts.

So it's not the power management settings, it's not the IRQ settings, what is it??? My old PC which was much worse worked fine.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
OK - I may have gotten it. It's not done yet (because the hard drives are several terabytes) but it is consistently transferring at >100mb a second and no longer does any of the jumping or dropping whatsoever.

What I believe the issue is is that specifically the ones at the top of the back of my PC, not just the top proper, have way lower power draw/whatever makes transferring work than the few on the bottom. I don't know the precise difference between these but moving both hard drives to the bottom USB ports made it work. On my old PC all the ones on the back were basically interchangeable.

If it stops and I was wrong I will update again.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
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