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What's the wattage on the Hakko I posted in post #38 above?You're gonna need a higher wattage soldering iron. Absolute minimum 60W.
You won't need to turn it all the way up, but it's nice to have the extra, when needed.
If the wattage is too low... it'll take forever and when you solder... you'll get "cold" solder joints, which ADD resistance.
Note: Google doesn't agree, but then Google probably didn't spend 7 years as an electronics tech.
Maybe it's not just wattage alone as this was what I just read on reddit:
"As others have mentioned, the 888D doesn't have the direct heater-in-tip design like more modern irons, like the Pinecil and FX-951D. Those stay at a constant temperature much more easily, since there's less thermal interia from the tip. It's less about soldering constantly and more hitting a joint that is heatsinked by the board or component. The 888D is more likely to take too long to respond, causing the temperature to drop too much and then overshoot as it tries to recover.
That being said, the 888D is extremely well-built and just... feels nice in the hand. I know others have gotten more performance for cheaper, but at the same time, it just feels nice to use. I've also never really had trouble with it heating solder joints up, although I've not done a lot with large ground planes lately.
I know that's a bit of a nebulous description, but if you know how good tools feel, you'll get it. The Aliexpress clone irons are fine for hobbyists, for sure, but buy once cry once, you know?
For instrument cluster sort of work, the 888D is probably fine. If you're dealing with large ground planes, or other soldering jobs where the components and/or PCB rapidly quick the heat away, the FX-951 or something from JBC might be a better idea."
What exactly is a ground plane as I just realized, @MrPig was the first time I heard of it and then I see the same term mentioned again.
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