Windows 11 displays black screen only


Starless

Member
Local time
12:22 PM
Posts
16
OS
Windows 11
After turning sleep mode on and leaving the computer online for days, I now can't get windows to display anything. When I reset the computer, the motherboard logo shows and I can navigate through all those BIOS options (I've even changed some on a hunch because I don't know what else to do).

I can't see my mouse cursor. The monitor is on and it turns off automatically by power saving settings after 3 minutes, I guess. The black screen mode is not that the display is turned off, it's just that all its pixels are set to black (which is a little brighter than when all the LEDs are actually off).

I can't know my windows' build for sure
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
First of all, you never change bios options on a hunch. Go back into bios and set to default.

After reset, go back into bios again and look under boot options. What is the first boot device listed? What drives does bios recognized as being installed?

You mention you did a reset. What was the reason for this? If it was a black screen did it display any error code. Exactly how did you do it?
Also you have not completed the specs of your system and your version of windows in your forum profile. It would be of great help if you will do that.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
First of all, you never change bios options on a hunch. Go back into bios and set to default.

After reset, go back into bios again and look under boot options. What is the first boot device listed.

You mention you did a reset. What was the reason for this? Exactly how did you do it?
Default seems to have some options that are incompatible with Windows 11. I did restore to default, and then I started fixing these options, like TPM should be enabled (there's disabled, firmware and another option here; I remember setting to the other option), CSM needs to be off. The first option is my SSD, where the system is installed

What I meant by resetting was turning the PC off then on again (even disconnected it from the power grid at some point).

I tried to make the safe mode option to appear, too. By holding the power button for a few seconds seconds while the TUF logo "press F2 or del to enter BIOS" 3 times.

I can take a picture of whatever you need to see in my BIOS. Before messing with it, though, this black screen problem was already present
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
First of all, you never change bios options on a hunch. Go back into bios and set to default.

After reset, go back into bios again and look under boot options. What is the first boot device listed? What drives does bios recognized as being installed?

You mention you did a reset. What was the reason for this? If it was a black screen did it display any error code. Exactly how did you do it?
Also you have not completed the specs of your system and your version of windows in your forum profile. It would be of great help if you will do that.
I get no errors. Instead of the picture of a beautiful place and a login text box, I get a black screen. I can even hear the 3 notes Windows plays before I am prompted to type my password. I did my best regarding my PC specs. Some data, like resolution and internet speed I can only have access to when I see it at Windows (I've been messing with my resolution, by the way. I wanted to be able to see the screen from afar, so I put that 1200x800 recently. I'm pretty sure I've already changed it back to what I think is 1900x1040 (or something like that...)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
I have another hard drive. A mechanical Samsung HDD at D:. I think it has the whole system there except it's Windows 10. Instead of making proper backup and formatting the thing, I just left that HDD like a second boot option
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
The first option is my SSD, where the system is installed
You've messed with a lot of things.

Here's what we know. Monitor and cable is good because you see bios. You do not see a cursor but you do hear windows sounds. This points in the direction of your video output/driver/settings or incorrect bios setting. I believe it's loading Windows 10 from your second hard drive and that's what you're hearing but I can't say for sure.

Your cpu indicates to me you have a modern uefi device. In bios, your first boot device should be Windows Boot Manager, TPM enabled, UEFI should be on and originally secure boot would have been on. Since you do not have a graphics card, make sure video setting in bios is set to auto or Intel 630 graphics. Verify these and attempt to boot.

If you have more than one video output on the back of computer, switch the cable to it.

You say you have 10 on second drive. If that drive was originally formatted for this machine, try booting from the second hard drive using the boot menu which is usually f12 as soon as you see the flash screen.

Try these and report back. You said you left the second hard there for backup rather than making a backup. That's all fine and good for files, but it is not a backup for 11.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
I couldn't find any video related options in BIOS settings.

I remember turning on Intel Virtualization Technology or something like that for the sake of running Blue Stacks (something I never did...)

The HDD with Windows 10 wasn't formatted for this PC, I just put it in here because it's where all my stuff was. I should have made a proper backup. I tried starting from it. I think it downloaded some stuff and then restarted in Windows 11 (with the same black screen) because the SSD has priority in boot order (because I just double clicked the HDD to force the system to start from there instead of changing boot priority).

Should I put the HDD as option 1 and try again?(below are some pictures of a few tabs in BIOS)
20220709_180259.jpg
20220709_180534.jpg
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
Should I put the HDD as option 1 and try again?
I did this and there's graphics. It's an HDD running for the first time in a new machine, so it's absurdly slow... But yeah, the graphics component doesn't seem to be the issue. It's running Windows 10.

The system seems to have some incompatibility in terms of LAN, because it's already configured for a network that isn't there anymore... So with doesn't really work, but it proves that the integrated graphics are ok.

To me the problem here is that I can't wake it up. I think I turned it off while it was sleeping, and now when I turn it on, it is still sleeping and I can't wake it up. There should be an option to tell the SSD to "forget everything about last time it ran". To clear all cache, or something?
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
Should I put the HDD as option 1 and try again
No, if you chose that drive from the f12 menu, that's the drive it attempted to boot from.

I think it downloaded some stuff and then restarted in Windows 11
What indication gave you that idea. When your chose HDD from the boot menu, what did you actually see before it restarted? Was it a black screen, no cursor?
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
No, if you chose that drive from the f12 menu, that's the drive it attempted to boot from.


What indication gave you that idea. When your chose HDD from the boot menu, what did you actually see before it restarted? Was it a black screen, no cursor?
What happened was I forced the system to start from D:, That message "getting things ready" or something appeared and a percentage. Then it restarted (as Windows does after that sort of thing) and when it did so, it followed boot priority, and restarted from the SSD.

To make it start Windows 10 in the HDD, I changed the boot priority order, putting the HDD first (I can easily revert this).

Someone said to me this (the black screen) can't happen in "Windows safe mode". If only I get to restart my Windows 11 in Safe Mode, then maybe we can make some progress. What happens instead when I follow the procedure to start in safe mode (holding the power button a bunch of times before Windows loads) is that I get a message saying "POST failed repeatedly. Press F1 to run setup", which just sends me to BIOS.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
I believe it's loading Windows 10 from your second hard drive and that's what you're hearing but I can't say for sure.
That cannot be it. The HDD is at least 30 times slower than the SSD. The SSD has no Windows 10 in it. The black screen is way too fast for the HDD. When I used the HDD to load Windows 10, it took time in that Windows-blue screen, with the little dots circling indicating "loading".

Maybe I can access the file system through the BIOS setup screen somehow and type in a PowerShell command or something that will restore the system? Is there such a thing?

I'll give up for tonight, don't give up on me though, guys!
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
Sorry, my last post got crosswise with yours. That's good, from a cpu/mobo standpoint at least. Now, we've narrowed it down to the m.2 and the windows installation.

To cover your points, unless you changed it, more than likely it was not set to sleep, but hibernate.
It's not sleeping/hibernating because when you power off a system it is no longer sleeping.
We've proved your hardware is good so windows is hosed up whether from file corruption or some of the various settings you changed.
I only suggested it might be booting into Windows 10 because it was your second boot device. We've proven that is not the case because Windows 10 will boot when you select it from boot menu.

IMO it's going to take a clean install to fix this or if you can get into recovery options you can try a reset. (to get into recovery options turn it off using the power button or AC plug. Hold down SHIFT key and keep it held while powering it on. You should boot into the recovery menu. Choose reset.)

If you can not get into recovery or reset doesn't work you will need to do a clean install (unless someone else here has other ideas). From another computer, you will need to create installation media. Use this tutorial to create the media, but in Option 1 step 1, download the latest media creation tool listed below because the link in the tutorial is for an earlier version of windows.

latest media creation tool Download Windows 11
how to create the media Create Windows 11 Bootable USB Installation Media Tutorial

Here's how to do a clean install. Make sure all other drives but C are disconnected during this process.

If you have files you can't live without, with some work you can attempt to recover them. I have had great luck using a live Linux Mint usb drive and running it straight off the usb. From there you can access your user folder and copy and paste files to external media.
 
Last edited:

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
This should say UEFI Mode

1657411512341.png
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Win 11 Pro 24H2 26100.1150
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel® Core™ i7-14700F
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF GAMING Z690-PLUS WIFI
    Memory
    G.SKILL Ripjaws S5 Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5
    Graphics Card(s)
    RTX 4070 Super OC 12 GB
    Sound Card
    Sound Blaster AE-5 Plus
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS TUF Gaming 27" 2K HDR Gaming
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 990 Pro 1TB NVMe (Win 11)
    SK hynix P41 500GB NVMe (Win 10)
    SK hynix P41 2TB NVMe (x3)
    Crucial P3 Plus 4TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x Shift
    Case
    Antec Dark Phantom DP502 FLUX
    Cooling
    Noctua NH-U12A chromax.black + 7 Phantek T-30's
    Keyboard
    Logitech MK 320
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk V3
    Internet Speed
    350Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Winows Security
    Other Info
    Windows 11 23H2 22631.3880
    On System One
  • Operating System
    Win 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3737
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-11700F
    Motherboard
    Asus TUF Gaming Z590 Plus WiFi
    Memory
    64 GB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GeForce RTX 3050 XC Black Gaming
    Sound Card
    SoundBlaster X-Fi Titanium
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung F27T350
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
    Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB
    Samsung 870 EVO 500GB SSD
    PSU
    Corsair HX750
    Case
    Cougar MX330-G Window
    Cooling
    Hyper 212 EVO
    Internet Speed
    350Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
What happened was I forced the system to start from D:, That message "getting things ready" or something appeared and a percentage. Then it restarted (as Windows does after that sort of thing) and when it did so, it followed boot priority, and restarted from the SSD.

To make it start Windows 10 in the HDD, I changed the boot priority order, putting the HDD first (I can easily revert this).

Someone said to me this (the black screen) can't happen in "Windows safe mode". If only I get to restart my Windows 11 in Safe Mode, then maybe we can make some progress. What happens instead when I follow the procedure to start in safe mode (holding the power button a bunch of times before Windows loads) is that I get a message saying "POST failed repeatedly. Press F1 to run setup", which just sends me to BIOS.
To get into safe mode, while Windows is loading, hit the reset button. Do that three times. On the third time, it should give you the option to boot into safe more. Windows needs to be loading for this to work, I think.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 24H2 RP channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home built
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    MSI MPG X570S Edge Max WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 64GB (2x32GB) DDR4 3600 (PC4-28800) C18
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS GeForce RTX 4070 Super OC 12GB DDR6 / ZOTAC RTX 3060 Twin Edge OC 12GB GDDR6
    Sound Card
    Proprietary on MB
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic XG2530 25"/Benq XL2411P 24"/ ASUS VA24DQSB) 23.8"
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080 240Hz/144Hz/60Hz (based on monitor setup above)
    Hard Drives
    SK hynix Gold P31 1TB PCIe NVMe Gen3 M.2 2280 Internal SSD
    ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD
    PSU
    Corsair RM1000e
    Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower Chassis with Window
    Cooling
    Corsair iCUE H60i RGB PRO XT Liquid CPU Cooler
    Keyboard
    Corsair K70
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Internet Speed
    ~950Mb/s download / ~700Mb/s upload
    Browser
    Edge (Chromium)
    Antivirus
    Norton 360
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Built
    CPU
    Ryzen 7 3700X
    Motherboard
    MSI B550 Gaming GEN3 Gaming Motherboard
    Memory
    32MB DDR4
    Graphics card(s)
    I forget, but it's old. I can't see the need to upgrade it.
    Sound Card
    Propietary
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ACER LED 24"
    Screen Resolution
    1920X1080
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung SSD 3.5"
    Case
    Corsair
    Cooling
    Stock
    Mouse
    Logitech
    Keyboard
    Logitech
    Internet Speed
    ~750Mb/s download / ~750Mb/s upload
    Browser
    Edge
    Antivirus
    Defender and Malware Bytes

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
Someone said to me this (the black screen) can't happen in "Windows safe mode"
Not always so. If windows is corrupted badly enough to prevent boot, there's no way to get into safe mode.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
IMO it's going to take a clean install to fix this or if you can get into recovery options you can try a reset. (to get into recovery options turn it off using the power button or AC plug. Hold down SHIFT key and keep it held while powering it on. You should boot into the recovery menu. Choose reset.)

If you have files you can't live without, with some work you can attempt to recover them. I have had great luck using a live Linux Mint usb drive and running it straight off the usb. From there you can access your user folder and copy and paste files to external media.
Holding down shift does nothing.

I'll try to get files from C: booting from Windows 10 in D:. I hope it works. When I start from D: it becomes C:, and the SSD is nowhere to be found. I'm not even sure what I'll lose...

This computer is merely a few months old and I'm already getting this kind of problem. Using Windows 11 makes me feel very unsafe now.

So I will lose every program installed?

Do you guys know how to get in touch with a Microsoft technician? Maybe there's a fix to this.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security
I'll try to get files from C: booting from Windows 10 in D:. I hope it works. This computer is merely a few months old and I'm already getting this kind of problem. Using Windows 11 makes me feel very unsafe now.
Don't think too badly of 11, as it's not specifically a 11 issue. Any OS can get corrupted for various reason. Stuff happens.
So I will lose every program installed?
Yes. A clean install is exactly what it implies, you start over clean with only what comes with Windows. Make sure to remove all partitions during the install process and install on unallocated space. That's in the tutorial so don't miss it.


 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
May I suggest if you've never done a clean install before that you disconnect you HDD while installing to make sure you are doing so on the correct drive.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 22631.3880
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1tb Solidigm m.2 nvme+256gb SKHynix m.2 nvme /External +512gb Samsung m.2 sata+1tb Kingston m2.nvme
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2 19045.3930
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
May I suggest if you've never done a clean install before that you disconnect you HDD while installing to make sure you are doing so on the correct drive.
Is that the only reason why I should disconnect the HDD? Because the prospect of opening the computer's glass case and messing with cables was making the job seem too hard. Hardware is not my thing (I was kinda down... and wasn't planning on going on about fixing this PC very soon).

If you're only preoccupied that I might commit some mistake like choosing the HDD for something during the installation, then don't worry. They are different in nature (HDD and SDD), manufacturer (Samsung and Western Digital), and memory size (2TB and 4TB). Thus, their names when shown bybya the computer are quite different.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASUS TUF Gaming Z490 Plus
    Memory
    1x32GB Kingston Fury (DDR4 3200MHz) — KF432C16BB/32
    Graphics Card(s)
    none (integrated Intel Graphics)
    Sound Card
    None
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung S22E310
    Hard Drives
    SSD WD Blue 2TB, M.2 — WDS200T2B0B
    PSU
    XPG Core Reactor 850 Gold — COREREACTOR850G-BKCBR
    Case
    Sharkoon Elite Shark CA300H
    Cooling
    Corsair iCue H115i RGB PRO XT
    Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
    Mouse
    Razer Basilisk v2
    Antivirus
    McAfee Total Security

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