Windows 11 keeps rebooting (I am tired)

Wish I could help. Need an It pro for this one.

xboxown said:

Why?!! It is a brand new one from Japan! How you figured it is faulty?

Click to expand...

It doesnt matter if its from U.S.A or JAPAN you can still get faulty PSU
Common symptom is constant rebooting. If you can try annother PSU i would try it first. You dont need mount it in the case just connect it to your hardware.
Did you connect everything right on the motherboard?

The only thing that stands out is the RAM. You have Corsair CMW32GX4M2D3600C18
VENGEANCE RGB PRO 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3600MHz C18 Memory Kit — Black
Rated speed: 1798 MHz; Actual speed: 1054.6 MHz
To see why it is not running at the rated speed. In the BIOS check to make sure to select XMP RAM profile. I am not worried about that right now because your computer keeps rebooting. For now leave it at the current speed.

Are you sure that the RAM is compatible with your computer? If the RAM is not compatible it might explain the rebooting problem.

Test the RAM by downloading MemTest86 and making a bootable flash drive

MemTest86

Select Download MemTest86 Free (Version 10.3 Build 1000)

Boot using the flash drive. Let it run 4 passes.

Hmm. I suppose the best way to determine if the PSU is faulty is to take it a professional computer technician and have them check it out for me and determine if the PSU is faulty by checking the voltages on the meter.

MisterEd said:

The only thing that stands out is the RAM. You have Corsair CMW32GX4M2D3600C18
VENGEANCE RGB PRO 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 DRAM 3600MHz C18 Memory Kit — Black
Rated speed: 1798 MHz; Actual speed: 1054.6 MHz
To see why it is not running at the rated speed. In the BIOS check to make sure to select XMP RAM profile. I am not worried about that right now because your computer keeps rebooting. For now leave it at the current speed.

Are you sure that the RAM is compatible with your computer? If the RAM is not compatible it might explain the rebooting problem.

Test the RAM by downloading MemTest86 and making a bootable flash drive

MemTest86

MemTest86 - Download now!

Download your free copy of MemTest86 here for USB.

www.memtest86.com

Select Download MemTest86 Free (Version 10.3 Build 1000)

Boot using the flash drive. Let it run 4 passes.

Click to expand...

OOH! You think the RAM is the issue? How come it never did it with Windows 10 but as soon as I upgraded with Windows 11 it is acting weird? You are saying my RAM is not going to the speed it should?

Can I burn this image into DVD instead of a USB and boot from DVD instead?

xboxown said:

OOH! You think the RAM is the issue? How come it never did it with Windows 10 but as soon as I upgraded with Windows 11 it is acting weird? You are saying my RAM is not going to the speed it should?

Click to expand...

I am not saying it is the RAM. All I can see it is running at the base speed instead of the rated speed. That can be fixed in the BIOS. For now don't change that because if the RAM is having problems making it run faster might make the problem worse.

Right now you don't know for sure what is causing the rebooting problem. Testing the RAM would eliminate that as a cause. This is an easy thing to try.

Sure the power supply may be at fault. The only way to check that is to substitute another known good one. That is what I did when my computer started crashing when I played a game.

BTW, my computer is much older than yours. I built it in March 2017. For a short time I ran Windows 11 on it. It ran fine but I went back to Windows 10 only because I was not ready for Windows 11 on it. Early Ryzen motherboards are picky about RAM. I started with Corsair Vengeance 2666MHz 16GB(2x8GB). I took a lot of time last year when I upgraded the RAM. I settled on G.Skill FlareX 3200MHz 32GB(2x16GB).

xboxown said:

Can I burn this image into DVD instead of a USB and boot from DVD instead?

Click to expand...

It is designed to be written to a flash drive. Do you have a spare one?

Besides you would be wasting a DVD. When done you can reformat and reuse the flash drive

Let's try something simple. Power off your computer and switch off the PSU. Now open the case and swap the PCIe power (the one on the graphics card) with the spare, just in case the first cable is faulty and doesn't provide accurate current. Also swap the power of your disk, if you have spare cables. You can test RAM with Memtest or similar utility. It is better if you run it outside Windows, so you can test the full RAM. If you download Strelec's WinPE is an ISO that you can burn on DVD or create a USB flash drive and contains many diagnostic tools in a Windows environment. Much like a Windows 10 live DVD. It also gives you the option to run Memtest without loading the Windows environment. While you are there you can test your disk health with Hard Disk Sentinel or similar utility or do a complete system test with the appropriate utilities.

this one? WinPE 10-8 Sergei Strelec English » Sergei Strelec

Yes. You can also use Windows 10 PESE (win10XPE) but I find Strelec has more tools. Win10XPE - Build Your Own Rescue Media [2] - Windows 10 Help Forums

Is it possible that what you guys are saying that the wires between the PSU and GPU is defective?

Before I open the case and check to see the wiring of the GPU is there an actual software that can do the same job as the physical hardware of checking if the PSU is good or not? If so, can I please have a nice for it?

I have enabled a feature in bios that detects abnormal voltage and prevent OS from booting. Here I am, posting this here. So it doesn't seem a voltage with the PSU. Tomorrow I am going to try switching cables and see if that solves.

I start to realize it is not a software problem. It maybe a hardware problem. Lately when it shuts down...it actually shuts down not reboot and the PC is impossible to power again and there is no power on it and it takes 2 to 5 minutes before it power itself again and boots up. I start to watch it power off (not reboot), just power off and I waited patiently until it powers again, and this takes minutes and minutes of waiting. Is that a sign of a damaged motherboard? Do I need to buy a motherboard replacement?

The second I click reply to post the message above it rebooted again.

xboxown said:

I start to realize it is not a software problem. It maybe a hardware problem. Lately when it shuts down...it actually shuts down not reboot and the PC is impossible to power again and there is no power on it and it takes 2 to 5 minutes before it power itself again and boots up. I start to watch it power off (not reboot), just power off and I waited patiently until it powers again, and this takes minutes and minutes of waiting. Is that a sign of a damaged motherboard? Do I need to buy a motherboard replacement?

Click to expand...

Something is overheating. That's why you have to wait, to be able to Start the computer again.
Could be motherboard, or power supply. Could be CPU thermal paste or even the pump for the water cooler.
If the CPU gets too hot, too fast, it will shut the computer down.

Check the motherboard around the CPU socket... see if there are any bulging or leaking capacitors.
If you find any... you need a new motherboard.

The motherboard can still be bad without bulging or leaking capacitors, but when it takes a while to be able to start again, something is probably getting too hot.

The caps in this pic are bulging AND leaking (silver part on top)...

k. I think water cooler is not good method of cooling my CPU. But I don't get it...it always show 45 degree to 50 to 60 degree celsius but never more than that. I know 60 degree celsius is till ok. Could it be the motherboard chipset, capacitor, something in the motherboard itself is overheating meaning a damaged motherboard?

I know I installed the water cooler fine on the CPU...I mean look at this:



that is a good temperature no?

xboxown said:

k. I think water cooler is not good method of cooling my CPU. But I don't get it...it always show 45 degree to 50 to 60 degree celsius but never more than that. I know 60 degree celsius is till ok. Could it be the motherboard chipset, capacitor, something in the motherboard itself is overheating meaning a damaged motherboard?

Click to expand...

It could be. It could also be the water cooler pump is just starting to go bad.
Like it was working OK, but it's dying.

As I said above... something is getting too hot.
When the computer shuts down and you... wait... it cools down, and you can Start the comp again.

The things I mentioned are just the most common things... bad capacitors, bad thermal paste, bad water cooler pump... even possible bad power supply.