BIOS problem

I have an old Ivy Bridge build that I run both Windows 10 Pro and Windows 11Pro on -two separate SSD's that I just swap over the data plugs to whatever OS I need. Now I turned on the machine this morning and it just kept on constantly recycling through the boot process.
I did try pressing the F2 for the BIOS on powering up and no luck getting in.
However, I was able to get the BIOS if I turned off the power and held down the machine's power button to drain the board of all power then try the power on and F2. I found each time that I did this that the SSD in the SATA setup was disabled and changed it to enabled. I also set the boot option to that drive and reset the boot order - I usually have it set to the Windows boot manager option for this machine and saved the new settings.
But this happened again and so I tried the drive for Windows 10 but the same thing is happening.
After that, a power on goes to an Asus message to hit F1 to reset the BIOS - I did all the changes all over again but with the same results and the latest is now all I am getting is the Asus message to hit F1 which is just not doing anything.
I have a sneaky suspicion that the BIOS chip might be failing.
Any thoughts please as I really like this build and cannot afford a new one just yet.

Don't have an answer yet about the issue but the mention of 'older' and Win11 prompted me to check your My Computer [thanks for filling that in] shows it's not that old so Win11 is properly supported, at least for the CPU. But the Version number isn't the same as mine, OS Version 23H2 Build 22631.3593.

Before you do anything with or about the BIOS, why don't you change the CMOS battery?

If you have the tools and the expertise, , , take out the CMOS battery and test it with a Digital Volt Meter.
It MUST read 3.0 vdc or better or it's bad, and needs to be replaced.

And why are you swapping SATA data cables? Doesn't your motherboard give you a F? key Boot Menu?

I've got three OS's on this very PC, and I always use F12 to get the Boot Menu, if I'm not booting into the Main SSD.

TM

Thanks Berton mate the F1 button did work after I left the machine alone for about 10 minutes and got back into the BIOS and did the same changes but the same thing I got the RAM beep and then nothing but recycling again.
Have repeated the above and reset the BIOS yet again and am stuck with the powering off unloading the power from the board and trying again.
Now after a quick net search and on the Asus ROG site, someone had a similar problem with the red boot LED near the BIOS chip staying on after the person powered up and there was another suggestion to clear the BIOS so I am just wondering if it might be the CMOS battery getting a bit flat. Now I could simply remove the battery and leave for say ten minutes and try again. Frankly, I think it would be just as easy to put in a new battery?

TechnoMage2021 said:

Before you do anything with or about the BIOS, why don't you change the CMOS battery?

If you have the tools and the expertise, , , take out the CMOS battery and test it with a Digital Volt Meter.
It MUST read 3.0 vdc or better or it's bad, and needs to be replaced.

And why are you swapping SATA data cables? Doesn't your motherboard give you a F? key Boot Menu?

I've got three OS's on this very PC, and I always use F12 to get the Boot Menu, if I'm not booting into the Main SSD.

TM

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Hiyya Wayne mate I have just posted that I might just try renewing the battery as I have a ton of them. Now I didn't know about changing drives with the F# key boot menu option I will search the Asus site to see what and if it has one.

Well have renewed the battery as the old one was at 0.23v the new being at 3.23v and the red boot menu LED is now out, and have tried changing the BIOS settings again but with no luck.
I am beginning to think that the BIOS chip might be just about cactus and am going to get a new one if they are still available.

ICIT2LOL said:

Now I didn't know about changing drives with the F# key boot menu option I will search the Asus site to see what and if it has one.

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Ok an update I left the machine idling for some time after trying the BIOS again and it just stopped at the post screen. I returned after another good while and there is the BIOS screen up. I checked the front screen and noticed the date and time were way back to sometime in 2009 so reset that date and time. Checking the SATA setting it read that the drive was enabled now and set the boot order to what I wanted and on restart it booted to the OS. I am not sure if the date and time had anything to do with this problem but I have my machine back.
Thanks to everyone for their input I do really appreciate the advice and am going to follow up on some more of the stuff posted likr the F8 boot menu key from that chart.

ICIT2LOL said:

I am not sure if the date and time had anything to do with this problem but I have my machine back.

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When the date/time in the BIOS are incorrect... all kinds of problems can occur.

Ghot said:

When the date/time in the BIOS are incorrect... all kinds of problems can occur.

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Yes mate I didn't notice it at first and maybe I should have checked it when this problem first started as the machine has been playing up for a while now- having to reset the BIOS every other time I booted the machine - and I am guessing because of that low voltage in the CMOS battery.

ICIT2LOL said:

Well have renewed the battery as the old one was at 0.23v the new being at 3.23v and the red boot menu LED is now out, and have tried changing the BIOS settings again but with no luck.
I am beginning to think that the BIOS chip might be just about cactus and am going to get a new one if they are still available.

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0.23V !!! My previous PC having a Gigabyte board failed to boot if the battery voltage dropped below 3V.

Steve C said:

0.23V !!! My previous PC having a Gigabyte board failed to boot if the battery voltage dropped below 3V.

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Yes, Steve mate I could not believe it myself when I checked it out, and I seem to remember renewing the battery not that long ago perhaps around two years or very close. I have read that left for long periods they can discharge rather rapidly and well this particular machine I don't use it a lot except for viewing YouTubes etc only because I have a really nice 32" monitor hooked up to it.
The strange thing is I have an even older Sandy Bridge build with Windows 10 Pro on it and it has a Gigabyte board and I cannot ever having to swap in a new battery quite bizarre eh?

Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM

TechnoMage2021 said:

Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM

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The voltage of CR2032 batteries rapidly plummets after a short time when the the battery falls much below 3V so certainly replace any battery at c. 3V.

Interesting about the CMOS battery, I have a Dell Inspiron 15 5537 from 2014 and an HP Envy 17" also from 2014 that have never needed that CR-2032 replaced.

TechnoMage2021 said:

Just as a point of reference:

When I was still doing Service calls, I always had several CMOS batteries in my Service Kit. Every PC that was more than two years old, got a new battery. And every PC that I had to bring into my shop, got a new battery. It's the cheapest bit of Preventive Maintenance that you can do.
Since those batteries (CR-2032) don't have a date code on them, there is no way to tell exactly how old they are. Even a new computer could have a battery in it that is already several years old.

Cheers Mate, I'm glad you've got your PC back,
TM

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Yes Wayne I agree after reading that article about the way that these 2032 batteries discharge when left in place for example as in our computers. I actually checked for a use-by date on some that I have in my spare's drawer. I have a load of both Energizer and Panasonic brands and neither have a use-by or made-in-date on the packaging whereas some of my stock of 9v batteries do.
Now that I know this and this issue I had - the impression that these batteries lasted for much longer than they actually do I suppose it is worth checking the BIOS for the status of the CMOS battery on a say half or one-yearly basis. I use the HWInfo app to check stuff I might see if that is an option because if the BIOS of the machine doesn't show the battery status it means taking the machine apart as the battery sits right underneath the GPU and such a pain to get at to physically check it with a meter.