Windows 11 keeps rebooting (I am tired)

xboxown said:

I am going to take picture of the bios showing temperature and psu voltage...I will observe it for 10 minutes and show multiple pictures of the voltage and temp within 10 minute spectrum.

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You need to observe it UNTIL the computer shuts down.
Hopefully you will see something change that might help us find the cause.


IF it's the power supply, that's bad... THIS is a "good" power supply to get.



But you have to understand how hot CPUs can get.
With a heavy load, a CPU like your can hot 75C which is... 167F. And that's when things are working like they should.

But... let's say the water cooler pump is starting to go bad. If ti drops down to say... 1/2 it's normal rpm... the CPU temp is gonna go very high, very fast. The computer is supposed to shut off when something like this happens.


Sure you can just "guess", but it's better to find what is probably the cause, of the problem.


Power supplies can overheat too... if they do... the voltages will change.

20 minutes passed it never moved or budged once in these numbers. Solid. And the computer never shut down:


Again after minutes worth of waiting


waiting...


and waiting

That's great... BUT it doesn't tell us anything.
We need to see what changes... WHEN the computer shuts down.

I am going to do a research experiment. Before I go to bed, I will reboot my computer and make it stay in bios mode at the same screen as the one I pasted above. If by tomorrow it is booted back to windows then I confirm now it is a hardware problem. At that point, I will start the PSU and go my way up. IF it remains at bios and the numbers never moved an inch and remained solid like the picture above then something else the problem. I would have said Windows as rebooting is a software thing, but full fledge hardware shut off then powering back off without having windows to take control of it...and only happens in Window is a mystery one at that. What makes it even more mysterious, it happens only when I upgraded from Windows 10 to 11.

Ghot said:

That's great... BUT it doesn't tell us anything.
We need to see what changes... WHEN the computer shuts down.

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But I cannot watch these numbers for hours to no end until something happens. That is pure torture. I can keep the computer on for the night before I go to bed. I noticed also after a while of me not using windows and being on bios the computer is no longer rebooting as much or shutting down as much. It is as if it cooled down for a while.

xboxown said:

But I cannot watch these numbers for hours to no end until something happens. That is pure torture. I can keep the computer on for the night before I go to bed. I noticed also after a while of me not using windows and being on bios the computer is no longer rebooting as much or shutting down as much. It is as if it cooled down for a while.

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Use HWInfo then... it records the highest value for things.
You don't have to watch it.

I have activated logging...I will keep it for one night. Come tomorrow and see what happened. I really love Windows 11. I don't want to revert back to Windows 10. That is why I am doing all I can to fix this.

it crashed before i go to bed. Here is my report.

If the PSU is under Warranty just return it no matter if it is faulty or not. Let the store test it for you. If in doubt they will replace it just in case. This is also true for the water cooler.

xboxown said:

it crashed before i go to bed. Here is my report.

Datablist App

Datablist web client

app.datablist.com

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You provided a link to a database app website???

The log for HWiNFO64 is something like mycomputer.csv. You can't simply attach that file because the ".csv" extension is not on the allowed list. However, there is a simple solution. Just right click on the file and select "Compress to zip file". The result will then be something like mycomputer.csv.zip. You can attach that file. I have attached an example for my computer.

spapakons said:

If the PSU is under Warranty just return it no matter if it is faulty or not. Let the store test it for you. If in doubt they will replace it just in case. This is also true for the water cooler.

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The OP can't just start returning parts without any proof they are faulty. You are just guessing the water cooler is at fault.

Normally if one doesn't know for sure what part is at fault he has to one at a time substitute known good parts. That is what I did to prove my power supply was at fault. If the OP can't do that he could take his computer someplace that could test it for him.

I sympathize with the OPs situation. I built a computer in 2009. It crashes occassionly. At the time I didn't know enough to figure out why. It turns out the CPU was overheating which eventually caused it to fail. To compound things my home got hit by lightning. I ended up building a new computer in 2011. A few years later with more knowedge I was able to figure out what was wrong with the original computer and replace the parts that were bad. I built a new computer in 2017 which has my Ryzen CPU. I still have the computers from 2009 and 2011. They are both running Windows 10 64-bit.

BTW, I have two computers with water coolers. One is 6 years old while the other is 12 years old. I only bought the first one because the air cooler I had was causing the CPU to overheat. The water cooler solved that problem. I have not had any problems on either of these computers since then. Note the OP's Ryzen 3600 temperature is 45C. My Ryzen 3700X temperature is 50-55C.

If he bought the parts from separate stores, then he has to be able to find the faulty part to return. If he bought all the parts from a single store, just return the whole computer as it is and let them find and replace the faulty part.

spapakons said:

If he bought the parts from separate stores, then he has to be able to find the faulty part to return. If he bought all the parts from a single store, just return the whole computer as it is and let them find and replace the faulty part.

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Based on my experience and the age of the OPs computer/computer parts no store will test any of this for free. The OP would have to pay for the new part(s) and the bench time to repair the computer.

Ten years ago I bought an ASUS GPU from a store. The store only took back a GPU for replacement for the first 10 days. My GPU failed within that time. They tested and replaced it for no charge. If they had tested it and it was OK they would have charged me $35. (I bet today that would probably be at least $75 or more).

If the card had failed after 10 days I would have to have to get an RMA and returned it for replacement from ASUS. Of course I still could have had paid the store to test it before I returned it to ASUS. That way I could have used it to convince ASUS it was really bad.

I don't know about USA, but here in Greece the store has to take the parts under Warranty and either repair them or replace them for free. You only have to pay shipping cost to return to the shop and some shops even collect them at their own expenses. Of course the store may say they don't repair or replace the faulty part themselves and have to send to their Supplier or authorised repair centre, in which case you have to wait many days, even a couple of months if the Supplier is abroad. You only have to pay if they examine the parts you return and no fault is found (NFF case). If said parts are no longer covered by Warranty (or they can prove you damaged them by mishandling), then you pay for repair or replacement and for shipping back to you. In that case you better find a cheap Service at your area and repair them there, not return to the store, unless of course you can go in person to return and collect them.

spapakons said:

I don't know about USA, but here in Greece the store has to take the parts under Warranty and either repair them or replace them for free. You only have to pay shipping cost to return to the shop and some shops even collect them at their own expenses. Of course the store may say they don't repair or replace the faulty part themselves and have to send to their Supplier or authorised repair centre, in which case you have to wait many days, even a couple of months if the Supplier is abroad. You only have to pay if they examine the parts you return and no fault is found (NFF case). If said parts are no longer covered by Warranty (or they can prove you damaged them by mishandling), then you pay for repair or replacement and for shipping back to you. In that case you better find a cheap Service at your area and repair them there, not return to the store, unless of course you can go in person to return and collect them.

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I suspect that most people simply discard a computer if it doesn't work right and it is out of warranty. They probably figure the cost of repair is not worth it. One time somebody gave me a computer they found in a dumpster. It booted into Windows but was really slow.. It worked well enough that it allowed me to create recovery DVDs. I used these DVDs to reinstall Windows. It worked like new after that.

It really helps if you have a friend or family member knowledgeable enough to help you with something like this. But then there are some people who think they know a lot but really don't. They can something make matters worse.

Many times the cause of a problem is hard to pin down. Even if you narrow down the cause that is not enough. It can get expensive to just replace all possibilities. Your best option is to swap out one part at a time until the problem goes away. Then you can buy just the part you need. If the bad part is still under warranty that is even better. You can even use your troubleshooting results to justify your claim.

I have removed the memory card and put it back in and heard a loud click to confirm it is tighteningly fit. I pressed in all the other cables to make sure they are not loose. Then I did the final thing so far. I have removed the power cable for my video card the PCIex and used another one from a different port in the PSU.

Right now, it has been solid, but for how long? I am going to keep it powered on and come tomorrow and see if it has changed. If it remained power and survived another day like this, I count this as one count down for from seven. If I have counted the last seventh day and remained solid for seven days, then we can celebrate it is officially fixed and all it needed a wire switch.

Like I said, some cable might not make good contact or provide the appropriate current, so replace it. I hope this fixed your issue.

Hopefully your problem has been resolved. If not I'm throwing out my take on your situation.

How do I do a backup using windows 11 all my applications and data that when I go back to windows 10 I just restore them and all return back to normal, all installed applications, all my datas return back to normal?

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There are a number of free and paid programs that can do the job. Personally, I image with Macrium Reflect. However with no imaging program can you go from 11 to 10 and keep all your data, applications, games, and settings intact. You CAN mount your Windows 11 image file in Windows 10 and copy your data files from the Windows 11 image into 10. You can also manually export your browser bookmarks to a file which can be imported into the Windows 10 browser.

IF YOUR PROBLEM RETURNS
This thread has tended to go around in circles with speculation of what is causing your reboots and it is true that each suggestion given COULD be your problem. But it makes more sense to me to start troubleshooting with what information Windows has provided that you passed on to us, and then work from there.

There are no logs available from the link you listed in your post #94. If the only critical or error events registered in event viewer or reliability monitor at the time of reboot is what you showed in post #6, those errors are directly related to an application. One of those errors specifically names Steam. The other is Skype.

If you encounter any more unexpected reboots, although you are not getting BSODs, use the instructions in the following thread to gather logfiles so they can be analyzed. Upload the files to any cloud storage (google drive, onedrive, dropbox, etc)and post a shared link back in this thread.