New win 11 build

SIW2 said:

If you get something that is too high power, it wont be very efficient at the lower loads.

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With 80 Plus PSUs, the rated efficiency doesn't vary a great deal from 20% of maximum load up. Wikipedia

As long as the OP stays below a 1kW rated supply, the efficiency should be OK.

Or a 2kW 80 plus Platinum PSU.

I'm in the modular camp myself, hate wiring messes and having to try to hide cables.
My go to brands in order are Seasonic, Corsair and EVGA.

Seasonic GX-550 here is $99 and is fully modular. 10 year warranty and silent.

It is $67.39 atm

More power than I need for my systems. I would have got one less than the 400 watts gold bequiet I currently have if i could find a modular. They do lower power sfx in modular but I am not sure about the cable lengths on those.

Thanks guys, lots of info.

esebm said:

Guys, thanks for the overwhelming responses, very much appreciated.
I currently own a 12 y old HP which runs more or less fine with win 10 but it needs about 5 min to boot so I can actually use it. Of course, it wouldn't run on win 11. Hence my plan for updating.

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Fix it! That's the business I've been in for over 30 years....getting rid of the crap and tweaking and tuning a PC for the best possible performance.
Give me that old laptop and I'll have it running like 'Better than new' in about 30 minutes.
I find it nothing unusual to delete 100,000 crap files on any PC, that's not had regular maintenance.
And if it's not something you need running every day, then don't let it start up with your PC.

I tuned up a man's laptop, sitting at the bar in a local Bar & Grill one day, and his comment was, "Dang! It didn't run that fast when it was new!!!"
All I could say is "I know....It's what I do!" (I had my Utilities Flash Drive with me, since I had just come from a Service Call)
He bought me a beer, for my efforts. :)

Out of the box, all computers and all OS's are hamstrung with "Safe Defaults". It's like a new Corvette with a governor that will only let it run at 45 miles per hour. How would you like to own one of those? Yet when you buy a new computer that's essentially what you get.
Windows (any version) is filled with those "Safe Defaults".

I like to just bypass many of the "Safe Defaults" and add a few performance tweaks of my own and at least DOUBLE the performance of almost any PC. Laptops....More than Desktops!

Everything I know and do is out there on the internet, for those willing to go looking for it.
I didn't invent this stuff.... I'm not that smart, but I do appreciate and accept the help from those who know more than I do. Thank you Shawn!

Guys, the ordered stuff is coming in piece by piece, so far so good.
Now I have, hopefully, the last problem to solve: Getting my current (win 10, 21H2) setup mirrored and win 11 installed.
I see two scenarios:
1. I install my current HDD into the new PC and let MS detect the eligibility for win 11, let them install it on the old drive and then mirror to the M2 drive, or
2. Mirror the contents of the old drive to M2 first and then let MS upgrade the new drive to win 11
I tend to prefer the 2nd option but I don't understand completely the relative merits of either solution, i.e. if there are merits. Has anyone of you faced a similar situation? What would be the correct answer?

One thing to be aware of is that newer cases no longer provide external slots to mount optical drives -- so if you need that, you need to be sure the case provides for at least one external slot in the front.

I believe the case that I ordered provides an external slot.
I am more interested in which of the 2 scenarios makes more sense.
Thanks anyway.

Guys, would this be a good fit for my MOBO/CPU combo?

I miss the days when there where computer fairs held in my area. If the vendor didn't have a computer listed with the specs, you wanted they would build one for you at a very reasonable price. If they had the parts, they would build it while you waited. If not, you could pick it up at their shop. I still get the email notices of when they are having a computer fair, the only problem is that they are in Laurel, MD which is near Washington DC. Way too far for me to travel.

esebm said:

Guys, would this be a good fit for my MOBO/CPU combo?

https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Create-Classic-3200MHz-Desktop/dp/B08HLYYP4G/ref=psdc_172500_t3_B0143UM4TC

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There's an MSI list of tested RAM: B450 TOMAHAWK MAX II Gaming Motherboard (AMD Ryzen 3000 3rd gen ryzen AM4, DDR4, M.2, USB 3.2 Gen 1, Wi-Fi, HDMI, ATX) It's a pathetically short list, and (I think) old.

That doesn't mean that other RAM won't work. MSI hasn't tested most of the RAM on the market.

Newegg has their own compatibility list: memory Finder | Newegg.com

I might go for the Corsair Vengeance pair (red, black, or white), for about $10US more than the Team Group RAM. The red version has the cheapest shipping (??????).

Corsair has their own compatibility list: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...&page=0&sort=price-asc&view=listView&filters=

Have fun.

The red and black versions have different descriptions, one is laid out for Ryzen CPUs the other not. What is that?

esebm said:

The red and black versions have different descriptions, one is laid out for Ryzen CPUs the other not. What is that?

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They seem to be the same, except for the color of the heat spreader.

Red is the traditional color of AMD. (Blue is Intel.) I wouldn't care.

OK, thanks.

Mark Phelps said:

One thing to be aware of is that newer cases no longer provide external slots to mount optical drives -- so if you need that, you need to be sure the case provides for at least one external slot in the front.

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Since some newer Desktops and the lighter thinner Notebooks come with no ODD I keep a couple of USB drives for times when needed. Price is not bad, between $35 to $50 USD.

I plan to keep my old PC, it has a DVD drive installed.

I'm sick at heart.... my PC parts supplier for the past 20 years, no longer sells AMD products.!!! Arggg!

But today, I'm running Windows 11 on an old HP laptop with an AMD Turion 11, Ultra Dual Core Mobile M620 (cpu)
and 4 GB of ram (from Crucial/Micron, the only Co. I'll buy ram from)
The laptop itself is an HP, Pavilion dv7 Notebook PC. with a bios date of 06-16-2010. Almost old enough to vote!
It was given to me, as DEAD and not repairable. Well, I fixed it, and it's as good as new today.
This laptop has one beautiful screen on it. And, Win-11 installed a GREAT video driver.

But the bottom line is.....that this old Laptop is running Windows 11 just as easy as it did Windows 7 or Windows 8.1.
Albeit maybe a little bit faster. This IS a FAST OS! Especially, after I've tweaked and tuned it.

I don't need to run this old laptop as my everyday PC, but, if I had to, in an emergency, I could. I've already installed O.E.Classic email program and it's sending and receiving my GMail, like a champ!

I'm humbled, to say that my success with Win-11 is all about where I got my Win-11 ISO.

Cheers Mates,
TM
PS: Here's my new Windows 11 desktop:
Doesn't look much like Windows 11, does it?

TechnoMage2021 said:

I'm humbled, to say that my success with Win-11 is all about where I got my Win-11 ISO.

Cheers Mates,
TM

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And where would that have been?

esebm said:

Guys, I've ordered some of the hardware (Mobo is already here) and I'm trying to figure the PS out. I've added up the power consumption of all parts and it's less than 200W. If I order a 300W PS would that be sufficient?

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NO! Take what you think you already need, and double it, and make sure your new PSU has two 12volt rails. Many don't!
You don't want the next thing you add to your PC, to over-work your PSU. That can ruin your day!
If you're buying a new PSU, you might as well get a good one that will last you for a long time.

Unfortunately, most SFF PC's won't give you that choice. That's why my main PC is a "Tower" with a 500W PSU in it.
I can add more drives and accessories till the cows come home and not run out of power.
But be sensible, and don't add more devices than your motherboard and PSU can handle.

Cheers Mate!
TM

Also keep in mind the building's incoming power, rooms may have sufficient at having 15Amp breakers but 20Amp is better. For my home office I added a second 20Amp circuit and can run more computers and 2 printers along with the Network and NAS drive and 3 UPS with one being 1400W.