RAM uncertainty


Have you tried reinstalling the operating system? It sounds like you are using an Ethernet cable. Is that correct?

If you simply want to set up a local account just disconnect the cable and try installing without it. You may have to click "I don't have internet" twice before it lets you proceed. You can fix the rest of it up later, after the OS is finished installing.
Yes, I was using an ethernet cable. I'll try without and post an update. If it doesn't work, I'm thinking maybe to reset the BIOS to factory default to see it it fixes the problem.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
I don't recommend re-flashing the BIOS if that is what you're thinking, but resetting the system defaults is okay. I apologize if I misunderstood. I am not aware of what level of expertise you may or may not have. There are tutorials online for setting up a local account when Win 11 gets stubborn and demands an internet connection. I've heard they stopped doing that but it's a new OS in a state of flux and IMO it's still in Beta. A rose by any other name is still a flower.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
A rose by any other name is still a flower.
Hahaha.

Anyway, yesterday, I tried the “I do not have a Windows key” option twice as advised, but no joy, still stuck on the “Let’s get you connected to the internet screen”, with the NEXT option still greyed out. I had tried the local account method earlier from YT but as you mention, it had been patched. I would describe my expertise as just below mid-level, and above newbie.

So I then checked the BIOS to make sure that TPM was enabled, and also changed the Secure Boot option to Windows UEFI Secure Boot (from Other OS), but still no joy, even though I’m clearly connected to Microsoft’s servers.

I decided to call Microsoft, but despite trying various phone numbers I kept on being deferred to online self-help.

I then saw a video about reformatting the SSD from MBR to GPT in order to connect to the internet, but don’t know how accurate this info is, and it’s obvious it has be to done from inside Windows. Plus, I’ve already wiped the SSD about ten times using ASUS Secure Erase to try to reinstall Windows.

Also, I just realized that before installing Windows, the option was presented to “REPAIR WINDOWS” which took me to Advanced Options, and I could then actually type in the Command Prompt box. But it cannot be a possible way forward as there's no OS installed, surely?

I think my remaining options are to phone ASUS (not a hardware problem, they might point out), or just to buy a Windows 10 aftermarket product key and take it from there.

P.S. I took some photos of the setup screen at various stages but the files were too large to upload.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
Hahaha.

Anyway, yesterday, I tried the “I do not have a Windows key” option twice as advised, but no joy, still stuck on the “Let’s get you connected to the internet screen”, with the NEXT option still greyed out. I had tried the local account method earlier from YT but as you mention, it had been patched. I would describe my expertise as just below mid-level, and above newbie.

So I then checked the BIOS to make sure that TPM was enabled, and also changed the Secure Boot option to Windows UEFI Secure Boot (from Other OS), but still no joy, even though I’m clearly connected to Microsoft’s servers.

I decided to call Microsoft, but despite trying various phone numbers I kept on being deferred to online self-help.

I then saw a video about reformatting the SSD from MBR to GPT in order to connect to the internet, but don’t know how accurate this info is, and it’s obvious it has be to done from inside Windows. Plus, I’ve already wiped the SSD about ten times using ASUS Secure Erase to try to reinstall Windows.

Also, I just realized that before installing Windows, the option was presented to “REPAIR WINDOWS” which took me to Advanced Options, and I could then actually type in the Command Prompt box. But it cannot be a possible way forward as there's no OS installed, surely?

I think my remaining options are to phone ASUS (not a hardware problem, they might point out), or just to buy a Windows 10 aftermarket product key and take it from there.

P.S. I took some photos of the setup screen at various stages but the files were too large to upload.
In order for BIOS to work in UEFI mode I(legacy or CSM) in BIOS should be off and system disk in GPT. That should be set in BIOS prior to attempted W11 installation on a clean disk.
Getting new license key will not help but there are ways to bypass internet requirement.
After it's installed you can have fair chance to solve problem with internet.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W10 and Insider Dev.+ Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home brewed
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900x
    Motherboard
    ASROCK b650 PRO RS
    Memory
    2x8GB Kingston 6000MHz, Cl 32 @ 6200MHz Cl30
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Rx 6600XT Gaming OC 8G Pro
    Sound Card
    MB, Realtek Ac1220p
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 x 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1080p
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000. 1TBSamsung 970 evo Plus 500GB, Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB, Lexar NVMe 2 TB, Silicon Power M.2 SATA 500GB
    PSU
    Seasonic 750W
    Case
    Custom Raidmax
    Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm
    Internet Speed
    20/19 mbps
In order for BIOS to work in UEFI mode I(legacy or CSM) in BIOS should be off and system disk in GPT. That should be set in BIOS prior to attempted W11 installation on a clean disk.
So in BIOS under BOOT section, I should change the OS type from Windows UEFI Mode, to Other OS, is that correct?

Also, I'm still confused about the GPT thing, where do I find it in the BIOS?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
So in BIOS under BOOT section, I should change the OS type from Windows UEFI Mode, to Other OS, is that correct?

Also, I'm still confused about the GPT thing, where do I find it in the BIOS?
#1. Yes, options in BIOS should be: CSM (new name for Legacy), UEFI only or even maybe Auto mode. Disabling CSM takes you to UEFI mode only. "Other OS" means it will only allow Windows to install or modify BOOT.
MBR/GPT you'll not find in BIOS It's up to OS to format in either mode, W11 will automatically format in GPT if UEFI bios is enabled.
By "Clean disk" I mean no partitions defined and even unformatted so Windows can make required partitions in required mode.
Typically will look like this.
1679729938482.png
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W10 and Insider Dev.+ Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home brewed
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900x
    Motherboard
    ASROCK b650 PRO RS
    Memory
    2x8GB Kingston 6000MHz, Cl 32 @ 6200MHz Cl30
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Rx 6600XT Gaming OC 8G Pro
    Sound Card
    MB, Realtek Ac1220p
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 x 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1080p
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000. 1TBSamsung 970 evo Plus 500GB, Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB, Lexar NVMe 2 TB, Silicon Power M.2 SATA 500GB
    PSU
    Seasonic 750W
    Case
    Custom Raidmax
    Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm
    Internet Speed
    20/19 mbps
Sometimes on a Windows installation the "format" will not work because the drive you want to install to isn't GPT. You can correct this by putting it in another PC and converting it to GPT via Windows Manager, shutting down the PC, removing the drive and reconnecting it to the PC that you are trying to install Windows 11 on. You want to click "new" before installing and you want to format it with the Windows installation first. After this Windows will proceed to make its own partitions much like the ones you see in CountMike's illustration above.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Disabling CSM takes you to UEFI mode only.
CSM is already disabled. I have taken low quality pics and hopefully I can upload them.
Sometimes on a Windows installation the "format" will not work because the drive you want to install to isn't GPT. You can correct this by putting it in another PC and converting it to GPT via Windows Manager

Okay, I will have to get an external M.2 bay from Amazon to connect to my ASUS B85M-G pc to do the format.
 

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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
Or just make a live Linux on a USB stick, boot from it and format in whatever format you want,
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W10 and Insider Dev.+ Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home brewed
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900x
    Motherboard
    ASROCK b650 PRO RS
    Memory
    2x8GB Kingston 6000MHz, Cl 32 @ 6200MHz Cl30
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Rx 6600XT Gaming OC 8G Pro
    Sound Card
    MB, Realtek Ac1220p
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 x 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1080p
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000. 1TBSamsung 970 evo Plus 500GB, Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB, Lexar NVMe 2 TB, Silicon Power M.2 SATA 500GB
    PSU
    Seasonic 750W
    Case
    Custom Raidmax
    Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm
    Internet Speed
    20/19 mbps
Or just make a live Linux on a USB stick, boot from it and format in whatever format you want,
OK, I'll try that.

I'll update soon.

Thanks guys.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
I appreciate all the help, guys.

According to HirensBCD, my M.2 drive is already formatted as GPT (see photos). There are a few network troubleshooting tools on the HBCD USB, but because they are so outdated I’m not sure it’s safe to connect to the internet to try them. I also made an Ubuntu Live USB, but its not as intuitive to use.

Also, I came across the thread below -


which suggested either a corrupt Windows Installation Media or the absence of a Network Driver. To rule out the Installation Media as a cause, I downloaded a fresh copy on another USB, but same result – still couldn’t connect W11 to the net. Then a few minutes ago I tried Shift + F10 and then WIN + E, and this opened up Explorer on a local account. As I have my mobo’s network drivers on a USB, is this something I can try, given that driver installation is supposed to follow a specific sequence i.e. chipset, gpu before LAN etc? Or should I just download a generic network driver from Intel and then install my mobo’s drivers afterwards?
 

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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
It looks as though you have the OS installed. What does it look like in Device Manager? Any nasty little yellow triangles to fix?

I've never broken my PC reinstalling drivers that came with the system board. I would try that at least. ASUS is pretty good that way. I've been noticing lately that Windows has been taking out my Ethernet drivers on an AMD build of mine and not really delivering a viable replacement. I have to keep on reinstalling and reactivating the old drivers. Not sure what's doing that.

*Another thought. If device manager says you're good to go you might want to try calling your ISP. You could be having an issue with your router. Maybe it doesn't like your PC. I've had this happen to me before too, where it gives all my other devices internet but won't work with a newer one.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
What does it look like in Device Manager? Any nasty little yellow triangles to fix?
Device Manager looking OK, but messy under the Other Devices category with 9 yellow triangles (photo attached).

I'll install the ASUS LAN driver and post an update.

Thanks, bro.
 

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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
May as well tend to the rest of those drivers while you're at it. You have the original driver software. I wouldn't worry that much about the order now that you have the OS installed. Let us know how it goes. Windows might even sort itself out with the updates once you have all the originals installed. :-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Try enable Network Stack in bios to fix no ethernet connection. Reboot bios then disable! enjoy... I hope ;-)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 (22631.2715)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    My Self
    CPU
    Intel Alder lake i7 12700K
    Motherboard
    Asus z690 Gaming WiFi D4, Bios Ver 2802
    Memory
    32 Gb Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 XMP1
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA 3070ti FTW3 Ultra Gaming & Intel Arc
    Sound Card
    Via Display port
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Dell AW2723DF
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440 @ 165Hz G-Sync mode
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850 1Tb NVME
    Samsung 980 Pro with heatsink 1Tb NVME
    Samsung 870 Qvo 1Tb SSD,
    Seagate ST2000DM001 2Gb
    Pioneer DVD-RW DVR-219L
    PSU
    Corsair RM850
    Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass
    Cooling
    Be Quiet Shadow Rock 3
    Keyboard
    Logitech G Pro
    Mouse
    Logitech G903, Lightspeed + Powerplay Mat
    Internet Speed
    40Mb
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    MS Defender
    Other Info
    Logitech C930e webcam
    Synology DS218 play 2 x 4Tb WD Red WD40EFAX
Try enable Network Stack in bios to fix no ethernet connection. Reboot bios then disable! enjoy... I hope ;-)
Good advice! I completely forgot about that trick! :D
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
May as well tend to the rest of those drivers while you're at it.
Almost there….

@Scannerman, a million thanks to you for the advice and encouragement so far. Also, thanks to PenPusher for the tip.

So, a few days ago as I switched on the pc to install the LAN driver, even before I inserted the USB drive containing the driver, ASUS splashed a message (photo) on the screen I had been stuck on. I almost fell off my chair! Anyway, I followed the prompts in within minutes I was on the official W11 desktop.

I then installed the other ASUS drivers which got rid of most of the exclamation marks in Device Manager, but two remain – PCI Device and SM Bus Controller, and I can’t tell which hardware devices they refer to.

I installed Intel Driver and Support Assistant which claims there are no missing drivers. Can I trust Windows to download the missing drivers from the internet?

P.S. For some reason Paint is not working properly, so I’m still using my phone on low quality pic settings.
 

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My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    CPU
    Intel S1700 i5 12400
    Motherboard
    ASUS PRIME Z790M PLUS D4
    Memory
    Corsair LPX 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    ASUS NVIDIA Geforce RTX 3060
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP 24w
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe
    PSU
    Corsair TX650M
    Case
    Matx
    Cooling
    ID-COOLING Dashflow 240
i wouldn't rely on Armory Crate too much, not very good application.
PCI Device and SM Bus Controller drivers should be with chipset drivers bundle as those are chipset functions. Chipset drivers should be first drivers installed or updated after clean windows installation
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W10 and Insider Dev.+ Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home brewed
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900x
    Motherboard
    ASROCK b650 PRO RS
    Memory
    2x8GB Kingston 6000MHz, Cl 32 @ 6200MHz Cl30
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Rx 6600XT Gaming OC 8G Pro
    Sound Card
    MB, Realtek Ac1220p
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 x 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1080p
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000. 1TBSamsung 970 evo Plus 500GB, Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB, Lexar NVMe 2 TB, Silicon Power M.2 SATA 500GB
    PSU
    Seasonic 750W
    Case
    Custom Raidmax
    Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm
    Internet Speed
    20/19 mbps
i wouldn't rely on Armory Crate too much, not very good application.
PCI Device and SM Bus Controller drivers should be with chipset drivers bundle as those are chipset functions. Chipset drivers should be first drivers installed or updated after clean windows installation

Yes, but for the time present we should eliminate all the "bangs" (I think that's what they're called?) Our friend can always tweak out the nonsense later. I had an issue with an X570 that wouldn't work right until I installed Armory Crate. Once I installed it the nasties went away but I never use it. I agree that the software sucks and presents all kinds of new complications. Definitely agree on the Bus controller drivers and the Chipset. In fact, I think we have identified the source of the problem if I am not mistaken. Those bangs should not be there and Chipset drivers are numero Uno. I have no idea what the mysterious PCI Device could be. Perhaps a card? Drivers can be so much fun! :)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
Yes, but for the time present we should eliminate all the "bangs" (I think that's what they're called?) Our friend can always tweak out the nonsense later. I had an issue with an X570 that wouldn't work right until I installed Armory Crate. Once I installed it the nasties went away but I never use it. I agree that the software sucks and presents all kinds of new complications. Definitely agree on the Bus controller drivers and the Chipset. In fact, I think we have identified the source of the problem if I am not mistaken. Those bangs should not be there and Chipset drivers are numero Uno. I have no idea what the mysterious PCI Device could be. Perhaps a card? Drivers can be so much fun! :)
According to chipset drivers PCIe device is just whole PCIe bus. All of it but that's for Ryzen system.
From whole Armory Crate i kept only Aura control, the rest was junk.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    W10 and Insider Dev.+ Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home brewed
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900x
    Motherboard
    ASROCK b650 PRO RS
    Memory
    2x8GB Kingston 6000MHz, Cl 32 @ 6200MHz Cl30
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte Rx 6600XT Gaming OC 8G Pro
    Sound Card
    MB, Realtek Ac1220p
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 x 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1080p
    Hard Drives
    Kingston KC3000. 1TBSamsung 970 evo Plus 500GB, Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB, Lexar NVMe 2 TB, Silicon Power M.2 SATA 500GB
    PSU
    Seasonic 750W
    Case
    Custom Raidmax
    Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm
    Internet Speed
    20/19 mbps

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