Is this the solution to connect a soundbar to a monitor that has no HDMI ARC / eARC ?


Christophe

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Hi, connecting a soundbar to a TV is easy, connecting a soundbar to a monitor is not simple because most monitors have no HDMI ARC / eARC.
I have discovered this adapter box:
1707329779170.png
Before buying it, I would like to know if it is this adapter will work using it like this:
1707329793144.png
 

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Zero idea here if that setup will work or not. I've never tried a soundbar on a monitor.

That said I simply have my Bose soundbar going into my TV to the ARC HDMI port. But that's TV. No Ideal about monitors.
 

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    This is my backup system.
Post a link to the device and I'll see what info I can find.
 

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    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
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    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
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    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
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    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
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There are many HDMI audio extractors on the market. I have never used one. Whether it's suitable depends on what capabilities are wanted from the soundbar. Stereo? 5.1 surround? Bitstream (Atmos or DTS:X)?

The labeling seems odd. On a TV, an eARC port is typically used to pass HDMI audio from the TV to a receiver or soundbar. Yet on this splitter, it may be the video output.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

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    Windows 11 22631.2861
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    PC/Desktop
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    homebuilt
    CPU
    Amd Threadripper 7970X
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte TRX50 Aero D
    Memory
    128GB (4 X 32) Kingston DDR5 5200 (RDIMM)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 4090 OC
    Sound Card
    none (USB to speakers), Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips 27E1N8900 OLED
    Screen Resolution
    3840 X 2160 @ 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Crucial T700 2TB M.2 NVME SSD
    WD 4TB Blue SATA SSD
    Seagate 18TB IronWolf Pro
    PSU
    eVGA SuperNOVA 1600 GT
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    Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo XL
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    1200 Mbps
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    windows 11 22631.2861
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    homebuilt
    CPU
    Intel I9-13900K
    Motherboard
    Asus RoG Strix Z690-E
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    64GB G.Skill DDR5-6000
    Graphics card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 3090 ti
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    built in Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus PA329C
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    3840 X 2160 @60Hz
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    WDC SN850 1TB
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    eVGA SuperNOVA 1300 GT
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    Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo
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    Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX Liquid CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech M500s (wired)
    Keyboard
    Logitech K120 (wired)
There are many HDMI audio extractors on the market. I have never used one. Whether it's suitable depends on what capabilities are wanted from the soundbar. Stereo? 5.1 surround? Bitstream (Atmos or DTS:X)?

The labeling seems odd. On a TV, an eARC port is typically used to pass HDMI audio from the TV to a receiver or soundbar. Yet on this splitter, it may be the video output.
Looking at the picture it looks like the device splits the audio and video from the HDMI output from the laptop. Before I answer yes or no I want to know more about the device. If they post a link I'll know for sure I'm looking at the right device.
 

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    Windows 11 Canary Channel
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    PowerSpec B746
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    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
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    750 Watts (62.5A)
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    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
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    Logitech K270
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    Logitech M185
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    Windows 11 Canary Channel
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    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
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    Logitek K270
    Browser
    Firefox, Edge and Edge Canary
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    Windows Defender

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  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro (22H2)
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    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1185G7 @ 3.00GHz
    Memory
    32 GB
Looks all right.

I presume that it supports all of the audio formats that your sound bar can use.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 22631.2861
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    homebuilt
    CPU
    Amd Threadripper 7970X
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte TRX50 Aero D
    Memory
    128GB (4 X 32) Kingston DDR5 5200 (RDIMM)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 4090 OC
    Sound Card
    none (USB to speakers), Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips 27E1N8900 OLED
    Screen Resolution
    3840 X 2160 @ 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Crucial T700 2TB M.2 NVME SSD
    WD 4TB Blue SATA SSD
    Seagate 18TB IronWolf Pro
    PSU
    eVGA SuperNOVA 1600 GT
    Case
    Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo XL
    Cooling
    Alphacool Eisbaer Pro Aurora 360, with 3 Phanteks T30 fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech K120 (wired)
    Mouse
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    Internet Speed
    1200 Mbps
  • Operating System
    windows 11 22631.2861
    Computer type
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    homebuilt
    CPU
    Intel I9-13900K
    Motherboard
    Asus RoG Strix Z690-E
    Memory
    64GB G.Skill DDR5-6000
    Graphics card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 3090 ti
    Sound Card
    built in Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840 X 2160 @60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WDC SN850 1TB
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    eVGA SuperNOVA 1300 GT
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    Logitech M500s (wired)
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    Logitech K120 (wired)
@Christophe, On the Newegg page it does mention that you can connect it to a soundbar. You have to scroll down a little to find it. Read it carefully and see if your soundbar supports any of the outputs from the converter. If it does then I see no reason why it won't work. I tried to find a user manual to see how to connect to different devices but I couldn't find one.
 

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    Windows 11 Canary Channel
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    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
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    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
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    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
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    Logitek K270
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Thanks for your feedback, so it looks like a solution. I am going to purchase it.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro (22H2)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1185G7 @ 3.00GHz
    Memory
    32 GB

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec B746
    CPU
    Intel Core i7-10700K
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z490 Phantom Gaming 4/ax
    Memory
    16GB (8GB PC4-19200 DDR4 SDRAM x2)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 TI
    Sound Card
    Realtek Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung SAM0A87 Samsung SAM0D32
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    NVMe WDC WDS100T2B0C-00PXH0 1TB
    Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB
    PSU
    750 Watts (62.5A)
    Case
    PowerSpec/Lian Li ATX 205
    Keyboard
    Logitech K270
    Mouse
    Logitech M185
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge and Firefox
    Antivirus
    ESET Internet Security
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Canary Channel
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    PowerSpec G156
    CPU
    Intel Core i5-8400 CPU @ 2.80GHz
    Motherboard
    AsusTeK Prime B360M-S
    Memory
    16 MB DDR 4-2666
    Monitor(s) Displays
    23" Speptre HDMI 75Hz
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe
    Mouse
    Logitek M185
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    Logitek K270
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I have ordered a similar one, it should arrive in 2 weeks. I will let you know. It is exactly the same though as it was much more expensive.
 

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  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro (22H2)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1185G7 @ 3.00GHz
    Memory
    32 GB
I used one before I got a new smart TV which has optical audio output to go to my old 5.1 DD Sony audio amp.
The 4 HDMI ports in and 1 HDMI port out switch with DD sound extraction worked fine, except does not seem to pass Dolby Vision and HDR10+, so I stopped using that 4 port HDMI switch. It says it is HDMI 2.0 only, and you need HDMI 2.1 to get it to pass DV etc...
My old switch passed 4K, but today that is not good enough for a 4K smart TV.
Any new switch today, you need HDMI 2.1 which all 8K switches will have.

New TV also has eARC on an HDMI port. New TV so you want to see DV or HDR10+, then things had to change.
 

My Computer

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  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
Absolutely would not buy that. That switch makes no mention of HDR10+, HLG or HDMI 2.1
That switch is like my old switch I no longer use.
And I question the Dolby Vision part too.


And all your HDMI cables to be sure you get these formats working need to be HDMI 2.1
If any are long, like 15 feet or more they need to be optical HDMI cables as the signals can drop out
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
I bought this model: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006390503907.html?skuId=12000036997777470
It is HDMI 2.0 .

It is a HDMI splitter. It is not a HDMI switch.
A splitter is for a different usage than a switch:
  • a splitter gives you 2 similar output from 1 input
  • a switcher gives you 1 output from 2 inputs. You often have a switch on it to chose the input you want to use, thus the name, a switcher.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro (22H2)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell
    CPU
    11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-1185G7 @ 3.00GHz
    Memory
    32 GB
I bought this model: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006390503907.html?skuId=12000036997777470
It is HDMI 2.0 .

It is a HDMI splitter. It is not a HDMI switch.
A splitter is for a different usage than a switch:
  • a splitter gives you 2 similar output from 1 input
  • a switcher gives you 1 output from 2 inputs. You often have a switch on it to chose the input you want to use, thus the name, a switcher.
Cheap enough so as to be even a throw away if does not work.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
The switch I bought is this one

Worked fine on an old HDTV. Did not work for a 4K smart TV. This does not pass DV, HDR10+

Proof was hook up a 4k Firestick direct to smart TV, TV says signal is 4K, and Dolby Vision or HDR10+. Most of Disney + is streamed as DV.
you also have to set a 4k firestick to output 4k.

Then put this switch inline, got 4K signal but never got DV or HDR10+
Thing was why bother with a switch as smart TV has 3 HDMI 2.1 ports, but I was dealing with 4 devices to the TV
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
I also had to swap out HDMI cables as some could not do 4K, the signals drop out and TV or projector blinks on and off.
Bought this to a Projector, then worked great. Optical HDMI cable

Some older 6 foot HDMI cables worked OK for 4K and DV, some did not. Only way to be certain is get 8K HDMI 2.1 cables

For example this cable did not work, signal kept blinking out. You will be watching a movie and screen goes dark, then it reconnects randomly

 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
The randomness of it working ok is shown by this switch I got which is 4k HDMI 2.0 which does work for DV and HDR10+

While the 4 port HDMI 2.0 switch did not work for DV and HDR10+
It is like are you lucky or not if an HDMI 2.0 rated thing works like you think it should.
Only thing guaranteed to work is an 8K HDMI device is what my experience is.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
I let my daughter's family use my projector for a month and told them don't buy long cables. just plug in your 4K firestick directly into the projector. Worked fine for them. Best option is not bother with switches and long HDMI cable setups, just use another 4K streaming stick, it is better and cheaper. Only reason I got the 50 foot 8K optical cable is I got it on sale for half price. I put the firestick on the input port of the working switch and split the signal off to either TV or projector. For me that was cheaper than buying another 4K firestick

And the smart TV has all the channel apps the Firestick has. I have adapted to the smart TV menu and now don't use the 4k firestick on the TV

Since I though want to hear DD 5.1 to my old Sony receiver, I need the 4 port switch HDMI DD sound extractor otherwise only sound comes from projector and not very good. Projector can connect to bluetooth sound bar, but did not want to buy one.

Sony receiver has two 5.1 inputs, one is optical TOSLINK cable, other coax. It works out, just have to switch DD sound input on Sony receiver.
Smart TV has a DD TOSLINK output, 4K 4 port HDMI switch has a COAX DD output. Sony receiver can select either one. I get great sound now no matter what I am watching. DD 5.1 is still good sound.

You realize only young people have great hearing, if you are in midlife, your ability to hear drops considerably, you will not likely not hear much difference between DD 5.1 and ATMOS, you will never notice.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    some kind of old ASUS MB
    CPU
    old AMD B95
    Motherboard
    ASUS
    Memory
    8gb
    Hard Drives
    ssd WD 500 gb
(snip)

You realize only young people have great hearing, if you are in midlife, your ability to hear drops considerably, you will not likely not hear much difference between DD 5.1 and ATMOS, you will never notice.

ATMOS is a 3D sound format, not necessarily with superior sound in other respects.

I doubt that high frequency hearing loss associated with age has much to do with the ability to appreciate ATMOS.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 22631.2861
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    homebuilt
    CPU
    Amd Threadripper 7970X
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte TRX50 Aero D
    Memory
    128GB (4 X 32) Kingston DDR5 5200 (RDIMM)
    Graphics Card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 4090 OC
    Sound Card
    none (USB to speakers), Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Philips 27E1N8900 OLED
    Screen Resolution
    3840 X 2160 @ 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Crucial T700 2TB M.2 NVME SSD
    WD 4TB Blue SATA SSD
    Seagate 18TB IronWolf Pro
    PSU
    eVGA SuperNOVA 1600 GT
    Case
    Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo XL
    Cooling
    Alphacool Eisbaer Pro Aurora 360, with 3 Phanteks T30 fans
    Keyboard
    Logitech K120 (wired)
    Mouse
    Logitech M500s (wired)
    Internet Speed
    1200 Mbps
  • Operating System
    windows 11 22631.2861
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    homebuilt
    CPU
    Intel I9-13900K
    Motherboard
    Asus RoG Strix Z690-E
    Memory
    64GB G.Skill DDR5-6000
    Graphics card(s)
    Gigabyte RTX 3090 ti
    Sound Card
    built in Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Asus PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840 X 2160 @60Hz
    Hard Drives
    WDC SN850 1TB
    8 TB Seagate Ironwolf
    4TB Seagate Ironwolf
    PSU
    eVGA SuperNOVA 1300 GT
    Case
    Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo
    Cooling
    Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX Liquid CPU Cooler
    Mouse
    Logitech M500s (wired)
    Keyboard
    Logitech K120 (wired)

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