Solved Unlocked computer to find desktop off center and rapidly shaking


barreleye

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Using 21H2 (OS Build 22000.675), AMD 5800X, Asus Tuf B550 Pro Gaming motherboard, Asus TUF RTX 3060 Ti, 3 displays (1920x1200 max res), most recent Windows updates and Nvidia driver.

I leave my computer on 24/7, lock it when I'm away, and have been doing this for many years. This morning, when I unlocked it after about 6 hours of being locked, I saw something I've never seen before, and it affected only my primary monitor. The desktop including taskbar was shifted to the left about 25%, with the part off-screen on the left wrapping around and appearing on the right. The desktop above the taskbar was rapidly shaking a few pixels back and forth, but the taskbar itself was steady. The computer was operable but obviously unusable in this state. I have a batch file that restarts the Nvidia driver, but that didn't help. Rebooting solved the problem. There was nothing anomalous in the event log. Has anyone seen this before?
 

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glasskuter

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I've not seen it but if a restart fixed it, I wouldn't worry about only one occurrence.
 

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    Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.382
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    Dell Optiplex 7080
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    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
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    Windows 10 Pro 21H2
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barreleye

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Turns out this was due to the AmazonBasics DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter I was using with my main display. Besides this one-time problem, I had a reproducible issue which took the form of the main display flashing blue for a split second when I started a YouTube TV program in a full-screen browser window on a secondary display, after the displays had woken from sleep (just the displays - I don't sleep my computer). A few days ago, I was sick enough of it to finally try the Insignia (Best Buy house brand) adapter I bought to use up my Best Buy bucks last month, and it worked fine, as did a real DisplayPort cable. (I didn't use the cable from the start because it's too thick and 15' long. I've since bought a nice braided Maxonar 10' cable.)

In summary, my problems were due to some deficiency with this AmazonBasics active adapter:


When I checked the reviews yesterday, I even found someone posted a video on July 15 of the problem I described in my OP two months ago:

 

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idgat

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Turns out this was due to the AmazonBasics DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter I was using with my main display. Besides this one-time problem, I had a reproducible issue which took the form of the main display flashing blue for a split second when I started a YouTube TV program in a full-screen browser window on a secondary display, after the displays had woken from sleep (just the displays - I don't sleep my computer). A few days ago, I was sick enough of it to finally try the Insignia (Best Buy house brand) adapter I bought to use up my Best Buy bucks last month, and it worked fine, as did a real DisplayPort cable. (I didn't use the cable from the start because it's too thick and 15' long. I've since bought a nice braided Maxonar 10' cable.)

In summary, my problems were due to some deficiency with this AmazonBasics active adapter:


When I checked the reviews yesterday, I even found someone posted a video on July 15 of the problem I described in my OP two months ago:

Went through 3 x DisplayPort (monitor) to HDMI (PC) adapters (none Amazon brand), none worked. Seems to have something to do with frequency/refresh rate between graphics adapter (card/chip) and screen resolution .... or sumfink like that. If they (graphic h/ware -vs- monitor) can't sync/match/adjust/whatever, an adapter isn't going to help.

Gave up, bought a HDMI monitor.
 
Last edited:

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    HP
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    Intel i5-9400
    Memory
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    NVIDIA GeForce GT730
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 32"
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    1920x1080
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    Classic Australian w.a.p.
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glasskuter

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Went through 3 x DisplayPort (monitor) to HDMI (PC) adapters
I hope you kept your old monitor for a spare. The key is to not use adapters but buy a high quality hdmi to dp CABLE.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 22H2 22621.382
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 7080
    CPU
    i9-10900 10 core 20 threads
    Motherboard
    DELL 0J37VM
    Memory
    32 gb
    Graphics Card(s)
    none-Intel UHD Graphics 630
    Sound Card
    Integrated Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 m.2 2230-256+1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell Premium
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Internet Speed
    so slow I'm too embarrassed to tell
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 21H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 9020
    CPU
    i7-4770
    Memory
    24 gb
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Benq 27
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    256 gb Toshiba BG4 M.2 NVE SSB and 1 tb hdd
    PSU
    500w
    Case
    MT
    Cooling
    Dell factory
    Mouse
    Logitech wireless
    Keyboard
    Logitech wired
    Internet Speed
    still not telling
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Defender+MWB Premium

barreleye

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I hope you kept your old monitor for a spare. The key is to not use adapters but buy a high quality hdmi to dp CABLE.
HDMI to/from DisplayPort normally requires active electronics to convert the signals. It doesn't matter if the circuit board is in an adapter or cable. The exception is for dual-mode DisplayPort (DP++), but that applies only to the source. It wouldn't help the guy you're replying to, because his DP was on the monitor side. There are limitations to passive adapters when they do work WRT resolution and refresh rates. I would definitely recommend an adapter, which is usually a short cable, less than a foot, over buying a full-length cable. I just wouldn't recommend the AmazonBasics one I had problems with and linked to. lol

BTW, if the adapter/cable doesn't specify whether it's active or passive, see if it's described as "unidirectional". If so, it's active.
 

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CornishRattler

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Had that same thing last week, only an 8 hour long reboot finally sorted it, in the end I put it down to the tequila
 

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    Dell Alienware M15 Ryzen Edition R6
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    AMD Ryzen™ 9 5900HX
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    32GB
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idgat

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I hope you kept your old monitor for a spare. The key is to not use adapters but buy a high quality hdmi to dp CABLE.
My poor choice of words - it was actually a cable ... but still no joy.
 

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    Windows 11
    Computer type
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    Manufacturer/Model
    HP
    CPU
    Intel i5-9400
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT730
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 32"
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    2 x 1TB SSDs
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    Classic Australian w.a.p.
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idgat

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I would definitely recommend an adapter, which is usually a short cable, less than a foot,
That's the one I bought, but alas .....
 

My Computer

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  • OS
    Windows 11
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP
    CPU
    Intel i5-9400
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT730
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 32"
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    2 x 1TB SSDs
    Internet Speed
    Classic Australian w.a.p.
    Antivirus
    KIS

idgat

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My Computer

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  • OS
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    HP
    CPU
    Intel i5-9400
    Memory
    8GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA GeForce GT730
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 32"
    Screen Resolution
    1920x1080
    Hard Drives
    2 x 1TB SSDs
    Internet Speed
    Classic Australian w.a.p.
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barreleye

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Update for lolz. I've been using the nice Maxonar DP cable I mentioned earlier for a couple of days now, and this morning, I found that my main display (HP Z24i circa 2014) was not detected. This is after the monitor had gone to sleep, which it had done numerous times before with this new cable, always waking up successfully before now. Again, my PC is on 24/7, and only the monitors sleep. Turning the monitor on/off, unplugging/plugging the DP cable, etc didn't help. Finally, I decided to try the Insignia DP-to-HDMI adapter on the same port I was using the DP cable, the same port I've been using for this display since getting the RTX 3060 Ti, and the monitor woke up. I never had sleep/wake problems in the four months I used the otherwise problematic AmazonBasics adapter, and I expect this to continue with the Insignia. HDMI rulz, at least with this display/card combination. (I use the card's two HDMI ports with my other two displays, and using the first DP for the main display ensures the BIOS is visible during boot.)

The one setting on the monitor that might apply is called "DP Hot-Plug Detection", but it was already set to "Always", which is supposed to avoid this problem. So there's nothing left to try. The only drawback to using the Insignia adapter is that being active, it's one more thing that can break, but that's not much to worry about.
 

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