PC dies when idle for a few hours. Cannot boot into Windows 11


GARoss

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Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
This has happened twice. Late yesterday I remembered I need to power down my PC that had been idle several hours. I found the monitor had a full screen with a sky blue color. After trying a few things to wake it up, I tried rebooting.

At first all seemed to boot normally but it only when into BIOS setting without being prompted. I tried rebooting several more time with the same results booting into BIOS. Finally, I unplugged the computer and waited 30 seconds & powered up again only to have the same problem; an endless loop into BIOS settings.

This morning I plugged the computer back in & booted to my surprise into my desktop. At the moment all seems normal. If I were to guess, I think my SSD C: drive is about to die. Anyone else agree or have a way to trouble shoot this issue?

Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22623.1250) Other specs listed below in "My Computer".
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9-3900X 12-Core 3.80Ghz
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370-Pro
    Memory
    16Gb Corsair DDR4 3466 Mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus DUAL-RTX2070-O8G-EVO-V2
    Sound Card
    On Motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4, NVMe M.2 2280
    Hitachi Deskstar 2Tb 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
    Seagate Barracuda 500Gb 7200 RPM
    PSU
    Seasonic X750 Gold
    Case
    Antec C100
    Cooling
    CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler
    Keyboard
    Macally USB
    Mouse
    Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse - USB
    Internet Speed
    350 Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
If you suspect your SSD, then your first step would be to test it. There are many testing tools to choose from, like Crystal Disk Info, Hard Drive Sentinel, and better, test apps from the SSD manufacturer, if available.

Some of the other usual suspects:
Check for crashes in Event Viewer. If these are crashes then they will usually be listed under the Critical Event section.
Check for odd Power Settings.
Check for any Windows scheduled tasks in Task Scheduler

Also: the next time this happens, and you are in the BIOS, check the CPU temperature. Is it high? When it won't startup until it has cooled down overnight might be one (of many) possible reasons.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
No need to test it, 99% is the SSD. Many motherboards enter BIOS when no hard disk is found, just in case you need to change some settings to boot. Next time you enter BIOS automatically, have a look at the storage section, there should be no disk because it wasn't detected. At this stage it is too risky to try to clone it, I recommend to do a clean Windows installation on the new disk and then try to copy only your data, not the whole disk. I recently replaced the SSD in a laptop which had the same issue. I attempted 4 times to clone the disk and all failed at some point. I gave up, installed Windows 11 on the new SSD and then took only the data from the old disk. Now the system is much better than before with latest drivers and latest applications.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
If you suspect your SSD, then your first step would be to test it. There are many testing tools to choose from, like Crystal Disk Info, Hard Drive Sentinel, and better, test apps from the SSD manufacturer, if available.

Some of the other usual suspects:
Check for crashes in Event Viewer. If these are crashes then they will usually be listed under the Critical Event section.
Check for odd Power Settings.
Check for any Windows scheduled tasks in Task Scheduler

Also: the next time this happens, and you are in the BIOS, check the CPU temperature. Is it high? When it won't startup until it has cooled down overnight might be one (of many) possible reasons.

CrystalDiskInfo says SSD at 81%

Event Viewer indicates two Kernel-Power in the last 24 hours.

Screenshot 2023-02-11 144105.jpg

I can think of 3 odd events over the last 2 weeks.
1) When returning to my computer after a few hours I found it mysteriously had booted into BIOS. Closing BIOS the PC booted into the desktop normally.
2) When returning to my computer after a few hours I expected it to be in sleep mode but found a blank screen & no response to keyboard. Rebooting it went straight into BIOS. Exiting BIOS the PC just looped back to BIOS again & again. After unplugging/plugging the computer it booted normally.
3) Yesterday, when returning to my computer after a few hours I expected it to be in sleep mode but found a blank screen & no response to keyboard. Exiting BIOS the PC just looped back to BIOS again & again. After unplugging/plugging the computer it just repeated looped back to BIOS again & again. I unplugged the computer's power overnight & tried again this morning to find it booted normally & has each time today.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9-3900X 12-Core 3.80Ghz
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370-Pro
    Memory
    16Gb Corsair DDR4 3466 Mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus DUAL-RTX2070-O8G-EVO-V2
    Sound Card
    On Motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4, NVMe M.2 2280
    Hitachi Deskstar 2Tb 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
    Seagate Barracuda 500Gb 7200 RPM
    PSU
    Seasonic X750 Gold
    Case
    Antec C100
    Cooling
    CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler
    Keyboard
    Macally USB
    Mouse
    Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse - USB
    Internet Speed
    350 Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
Please run the V2 log collector and post a share link into this thread using one drive, drop box, or google drive.

 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 10
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP
    CPU
    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4800MQ CPU @ 2.70GHz
    Motherboard
    Product : 190A Version : KBC Version 94.56
    Memory
    16 GB Total: Manufacturer : Samsung MemoryType : DDR3 FormFactor : SODIMM Capacity : 8GB Speed : 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA Quadro K3100M; Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600
    Sound Card
    IDT High Definition Audio CODEC; PNP Device ID HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_111D&DEV_76E0
    Hard Drives
    Model Hitachi HTS727575A9E364
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Defender
    Other Info
    Mobile Workstation
81% disk health is too low, especially for an SDD. What are you waiting for? To lose any data first? Replace the drive ASAP.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2 64-bit (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    Laptop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Acer Extensa 5630EZ
    CPU
    Mobile DualCore Intel Core 2 Duo T7250, 2000 MHz
    Motherboard
    Acer Extensa 5630
    Memory
    4GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Mobile Intel(R) GMA 4500M (Mobile 4 series)
    Sound Card
    Realtek ALC268 @ Intel 82801IB ICH9 - High Definition Audio Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    1
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB SATA Device (250 GB, SATA-III)
    Internet Speed
    VDSL 50 Mbps
    Browser
    MICROSOFT EDGE
    Antivirus
    WINDOWS DEFENDER
    Other Info
    Legacy MBR installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, no WDDM 2.0 graphics drivers, cannot get more unsupported ;) This is only my test laptop. I had installed Windows 11 here before upgrading my main PC. For my main PC I use everyday see my 2nd system specs.
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Pro v23H2 (build 22631.3374)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom-built PC
    CPU
    Intel Core-i7 3770 3.40GHz s1155 (3rd generation)
    Motherboard
    Asus P8H61 s1155 ATX
    Memory
    2x Kingston Hyper-X Blu 8GB DDR3-1600
    Graphics card(s)
    Gainward NE5105T018G1-1070F (nVidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti 4GB GDDR5)
    Sound Card
    Realtek HD audio (ALC887)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Sony Bravia KDL-19L4000 19" LCD TV via VGA
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900 32-bit 60Hz
    Hard Drives
    Patriot Burst Elite 480GB SSD as system disk, Western Digital Caviar Purple 4TB SATA III (WD40PURZ) as second
    PSU
    Thermaltake Litepower RGB 550W Full Wired
    Case
    SUPERCASE MIDI-TOWER
    Cooling
    Stock Intel CPU Fan, 1x 8cm fan at the back
    Mouse
    Sunnyline OptiEye PS/2
    Keyboard
    Mitsumi 101-key PS/2
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
    Browser
    Microsoft Edge, Mozilla Firefox
    Antivirus
    Microsoft Windows Defender
    Other Info
    Legacy BIOS (MBR) installation, no TPM, no Secure Boot, WDDM 3.0 graphics drivers, WEI score 7.4
Still would like to know what the temperatures are in BIOS when this happens.
The V2 log collector for zbook to look at would be helpful.

Can you post a pic of CrystalDiskInfo results here?

That Event Viewer critical event is just telling you that the system shut down unexpectedly. Yep, we know that. That was probably you hard restarting the PC after finding it unresponsive. We are trying to find out why it's freezing and becoming unresponsive.

It is the information you've given that the system will start up normally, run, and then shut down automatically after running idle for some time that has me fixated on heat problems, power problems, or graphics problems.
I'm just not wrapping my head around the idea of a failing disk causing those symptoms in that fashion. I'd think it would throw up the problems at cold start, normal start, restart - anytime - if it were failing.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
Still would like to know what the temperatures are in BIOS when this happens.
The V2 log collector for zbook to look at would be helpful.

Can you post a pic of CrystalDiskInfo results here?

That Event Viewer critical event is just telling you that the system shut down unexpectedly. Yep, we know that. That was probably you hard restarting the PC after finding it unresponsive. We are trying to find out why it's freezing and becoming unresponsive.

It is the information you've given that the system will start up normally, run, and then shut down automatically after running idle for some time that has me fixated on heat problems, power problems, or graphics problems.
I'm just not wrapping my head around the idea of a failing disk causing those symptoms in that fashion. I'd think it would throw up the problems at cold start, normal start, restart - anytime - if it were failing.
Hi. I appreciate your help. I'm not familiar with Event Viewer so I'm not sure if I'm answering you questions as you would like. I've attached a screen grab of CrystalDiskInfo from today. Everything posted in the text file (PC ERROR) is from Event Viewer (local)/Custom Views/Windows Logs/System from about 2PM 2/10/2023 until about 11PM that night. That is the total time my PC was idle & the issue occurred, so it seems a lot was going on during that period. The issue has only happened when the computer is idle.

If you'd like more in depth information from the text file just let me know. It was at about the 10:11PM point that the computer really got busy & it was idle. I tried to "wake" it somewhere after 10:34PM. I found the monitor ON, not black but with a sky blue color. The computer did not respond to the keyboard at all.

Screenshot 2023-02-12 104439.jpg
 

Attachments

  • PC ERROR.txt
    23.3 KB · Views: 2

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9-3900X 12-Core 3.80Ghz
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370-Pro
    Memory
    16Gb Corsair DDR4 3466 Mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus DUAL-RTX2070-O8G-EVO-V2
    Sound Card
    On Motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4, NVMe M.2 2280
    Hitachi Deskstar 2Tb 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
    Seagate Barracuda 500Gb 7200 RPM
    PSU
    Seasonic X750 Gold
    Case
    Antec C100
    Cooling
    CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler
    Keyboard
    Macally USB
    Mouse
    Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse - USB
    Internet Speed
    350 Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
Personally, I'd dive in and check the disk's data & power supply cables & connectors.

Best of luck,
Denis
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Home x64 Version 23H2 Build 22631.3447
Crystaldisk looks clean.

You say that this problem occurs after a long period of being idle.
Your symptoms bring to mind a common problem we had over on TenForums where the PC would freeze when going into or out of Sleep. No response from PC, no mouse or keyboard response, only a hard restart would work.

There are 2 things you could check/test to see if this is a possibility here:

First, if not off already, turn off Fast Startup
The fastest way there: search for/open Control Panel > Go to Power Options > on the left, choose: Choose what the Power Buttons Do > you will see "Turn on Fast Startup" and it may be greyed out > choose: "Change Settings That Are Currently Unavailable" > and now you can uncheck: "Turn on Fast Startup" > Restart the PC

Now go back into Power Options:
Whichever power plan you are on, choose: Change Plan Settings > choose: Change Advanced Power Settings > under Advance Plan Settings, the first item is Hard Disk > expand that > then expand "Turn Off Hard Disk After" > (note the setting here before you change it *) > move the counter DOWN till it gets to 0 and it will say "Never" > Apply
Now check the SLEEP section > expand it > user's choice, but on a desktop PC the Sleep After can be Never > Hibernate after Never should be selected if you turned off Fast Startup.

* It would be important to know if the PC was turning off the hard disk after 2-3 hours in that Power Option setting.

Fast Startup is really just Hibernation. Instead of shutting down the system creates a hibernation file which it uses to startup fast. The freezing problem was linked, in some cases, to a corrupt hibernation file.

Test the PC like that for a while. If my hunch is right, and it's freezing going into sleep, or you have a corrupt hiberfil file, then the freezing should stop. But be reminded that there can be other causes, like overheating.

Were you ever able to look at the BIOS temps? Or has the problem not happened again yet?

Note: you should also test Sleep. Can you put the PC to Sleep manually and bring it out normally?
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
Crystaldisk looks clean.

You say that this problem occurs after a long period of being idle.
Your symptoms bring to mind a common problem we had over on TenForums where the PC would freeze when going into or out of Sleep. No response from PC, no mouse or keyboard response, only a hard restart would work.

There are 2 things you could check/test to see if this is a possibility here:

First, if not off already, turn off Fast Startup
The fastest way there: search for/open Control Panel > Go to Power Options > on the left, choose: Choose what the Power Buttons Do > you will see "Turn on Fast Startup" and it may be greyed out > choose: "Change Settings That Are Currently Unavailable" > and now you can uncheck: "Turn on Fast Startup" > Restart the PC
Fast Startup was OFF
Now go back into Power Options:
Whichever power plan you are on, choose: Change Plan Settings > choose: Change Advanced Power Settings > under Advance Plan Settings, the first item is Hard Disk > expand that > then expand "Turn Off Hard Disk After" > (note the setting here before you change it *) > move the counter DOWN till it gets to 0 and it will say "Never" > Apply
Now check the SLEEP section > expand it > user's choice, but on a desktop PC the Sleep After can be Never > Hibernate after Never should be selected if you turned off Fast Startup.
Done
* It would be important to know if the PC was turning off the hard disk after 2-3 hours in that Power Option setting.

Fast Startup is really just Hibernation. Instead of shutting down the system creates a hibernation file which it uses to startup fast. The freezing problem was linked, in some cases, to a corrupt hibernation file.

Test the PC like that for a while. If my hunch is right, and it's freezing going into sleep, or you have a corrupt hiberfil file, then the freezing should stop. But be reminded that there can be other causes, like overheating.

Were you ever able to look at the BIOS temps? Or has the problem not happened again yet?
I've been cautious not to let the computer idle for more than a few minutes since this issue began. If (when) the issue reoccurs I'll check hard drive temps in BIOS.
Note: you should also test Sleep. Can you put the PC to Sleep manually and bring it out normally?
The computer has always been able to sleep then awake after long periods of time, until now. I haven't tried since the issue began.

Answers in BOLD.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9-3900X 12-Core 3.80Ghz
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370-Pro
    Memory
    16Gb Corsair DDR4 3466 Mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus DUAL-RTX2070-O8G-EVO-V2
    Sound Card
    On Motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4, NVMe M.2 2280
    Hitachi Deskstar 2Tb 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
    Seagate Barracuda 500Gb 7200 RPM
    PSU
    Seasonic X750 Gold
    Case
    Antec C100
    Cooling
    CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler
    Keyboard
    Macally USB
    Mouse
    Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse - USB
    Internet Speed
    350 Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
I know people are busy and have other things to do, but when you are the geeky type you can be far more friendly towards experimenting.
If it were me I would be trying to get it to happen again, with a timer set on my phone so I would know exactly how long it took to freeze up.
Make note of the exact wording of any messages.

You could also test for a temperature problem by booting into BIOS, going to the Monitor section (to see the fan speeds and component temperatures) and then just leave it there at idle for a while, checking in occasionally. If the temps start climbing and don't stop then you know. If they stay stable for 2-3 hours then we can put that idea to bed.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
Hmmm! Two very simple things, well, sort of simple, that have not been mentioned yet: First thing I check, when a PC is just going crazy, is the CMOS battery. Low CMOS battery voltage, (anything under 3.0vdc) can cause the PC to just get spastic. If you have no way to test that little battery, then just replace it with a new one.

Then there's the RAM memory. I fixed my own PC this past week, after nothing else worked, by taking out the two ram memory sticks and cleaning the edge connectors* and then re-installing them. In the past 40+ years, I can't even count the number of PC's I've fixed with that simple little chore.
* I first clean up the edge connectors with a mildly abrasive Buffing Bar, and then wipe them clean with a soft cloth soaked in alcohol. NO, not the drinking kind! I've been doing that for many years, and I've saved literally hundreds of sticks of RAM, just by cleaning them.

And yes, my CMOS battery was down to 3.0 vdc, but I replaced it anyway, and that did not fix my PC, but at least now I know that it has a good battery in it. I make a little note, inside the PC, as to the date that I installed a new battery.

Now the little ol' PC is running like new again, and it boots right up like it should and does not LOCK UP on me, like it was doing.
PC problems can get really weird sometimes, but the fixes are usually pretty simple.

Cheers Mates
TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Hmmm! Two very simple things, well, sort of simple, that have not been mentioned yet: First thing I check, when a PC is just going crazy, is the CMOS battery. Low CMOS battery voltage, (anything under 3.0vdc) can cause the PC to just get spastic. If you have no way to test that little battery, then just replace it with a new one.

Then there's the RAM memory. I fixed my own PC this past week, after nothing else worked, by taking out the two ram memory sticks and cleaning the edge connectors* and then re-installing them. In the past 40+ years, I can't even count the number of PC's I've fixed with that simple little chore.
* I first clean up the edge connectors with a mildly abrasive Buffing Bar, and then wipe them clean with a soft cloth soaked in alcohol. NO, not the drinking kind! I've been doing that for many years, and I've saved literally hundreds of sticks of RAM, just by cleaning them.

And yes, my CMOS battery was down to 3.0 vdc, but I replaced it anyway, and that did not fix my PC, but at least now I know that it has a good battery in it. I make a little note, inside the PC, as to the date that I installed a new battery.

Now the little ol' PC is running like new again, and it boots right up like it should and does not LOCK UP on me, like it was doing.
PC problems can get really weird sometimes, but the fixes are usually pretty simple.

Cheers Mates
TM :cool:
I'll check those out. I'm in central Florida, too.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 64-bit, Version 22H2 (OS Build 22621.3296)
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom built
    CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9-3900X 12-Core 3.80Ghz
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime X370-Pro
    Memory
    16Gb Corsair DDR4 3466 Mhz
    Graphics Card(s)
    Asus DUAL-RTX2070-O8G-EVO-V2
    Sound Card
    On Motherboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ASUS PA329C
    Screen Resolution
    3840x2160
    Hard Drives
    Samsung 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4, NVMe M.2 2280
    Hitachi Deskstar 2Tb 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
    Seagate Barracuda 500Gb 7200 RPM
    PSU
    Seasonic X750 Gold
    Case
    Antec C100
    Cooling
    CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler
    Keyboard
    Macally USB
    Mouse
    Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse - USB
    Internet Speed
    350 Mbs
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    PC Matic
Years ago, I met a fellow on a forum, who said he was in Florida, turned out we're basically in the same county, and only about 20 miles apart. I wound up building him a new computer. He just installed windows 11 on it. Today we're best of friends.

Sure, some really big things come along, like blown motherboards that can take a PC down, but in my own experience, that only happens less than 5% of the time. I always look at the most simple things first. Like a power cord that the dog chewed on, or one that just came loose.

A lady called me one day, to tell me that her computer was DEAD. Later, on examination, I found the power plug laying on the floor.
While I was there anyway, I cleaned up her HD, updates several programs, and she made me lunch. It's all good!

Cheers, mate! Please let us know if you find the "Ghost in the Machine".

TM :cool:
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Win-11/Pro/64, Optimum 11 V5, 23H2 22631.3374
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Home Made w/Gigabyte mobo/DX-10
    CPU
    AMD FX 6350 Six Core
    Motherboard
    Gigabyte, DX-10, GA-78LMT-USB3
    Memory
    Crucial, 16 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDEA GeForce 210, 1GB DDR3 Ram.
    Sound Card
    Onboard
    Monitor(s) Displays
    24" Acer
    Screen Resolution
    1280x800
    Hard Drives
    Crucial SSD 500GB, SanDisk 126GB SSD, Toshiba 1TB HD
    PSU
    EVGA 500 W.
    Case
    Pac Man, Mid Tower
    Cooling
    AMD/OEM
    Keyboard
    101 key, Backlit/ Mechanical Switches/
    Mouse
    Logitech USB Wireless M310
    Internet Speed
    Hughes Net speed varies with the weather
    Browser
    Firefox 64x
    Antivirus
    Windows Defender, Super Anti Spyware
    Other Info
    Given to me as DEAD, and irreparable.
    Rebuilt with Gigabyte mobo, AMD cpu, 16GB ram and 500GB Crucial SSD.
Looks like that SSD could use a little TRIMming. Other than that I'm guessing there's plenty of life in the ole gal yet. I'd also check System > Power & battery. Personally, I'd set every thing to EXTREME and "NEVER" power off, NEVER go to sleep and select NEVER NEVER NEVER on everything that involves shutting down my PC or putting it to sleep or hibernate. My OS has a little button that lets me shut down my system or restart it. I also have a physical switch on my PC for manually shutting it down. Increase your carbon foot print. FEED THE TREES! :wink:

Anyway. Try running your system full bore and see what happens. If it's all good then it's not your SSD. If you're still encountering the same problems after you told it to never sleep, never hibernate, and never shut down by itself then I'd say you def have a prob with your drive or your sleep settings. Not to complicate matters any, but do you happen to use a UPS?
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.
I'd still like to know what the temperatures are in BIOS for the CPU and motherboard after it has been running for a while.

That is just one more test you need to do to try and track down the real cause of this problem, in addition to the list of tests given to you by zbook
on the thread here

It is difficult to diagnose a PC from hundreds of miles away without good feedback from you. We are literally working in the dark.

I suggest doing one test at a time and report back in the thread it was suggested any and all results, even if the result was nothing. We can use all that information to make an informed decision.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
That's what a bad hdd did on one of my old desktops awhile back. What I would do now, if facing a similar problem, is to get out one of my spare hdd's that I keep around and put the os and data image of this failing pc from a Macrium backup on it. At least it would be ready for a quick swap if and when I decided nothing else is working.
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    Windows 11/Linux Mint
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Dell Optiplex 960
    CPU
    Intel Core 2 Duo CPU E8400 @ 3.00 GHz x 2
    Memory
    8 GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    Intel 4 Series Chipset Integrated Graphics Controller
    Monitor(s) Displays
    HP x22LED
    Hard Drives
    Crucial 250 GB SSD, HD 1Tb
He has already tried replacing the SSD. It didn't help.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • OS
    Windows 11 Pro 23H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    Intel i7-13700K
    Motherboard
    MSI PRO Z790-A WiFi
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 5600 - 32GB
    Graphics Card(s)
    MSI RTX3060 Ventus 2x 12GB
    Sound Card
    On board - Realtek ALC4080
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG 27GL850
    Screen Resolution
    2560 x 1440
    Hard Drives
    WD Black SN850X Nvme - 1TB
    WD Black 6TB HDD 256MB cache CMR
    WD Black 6TB HDD 128MB cache CMR
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Fractal Design - Define 7
    Cooling
    Deepcool AK400
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Mouse
    MS Model 1113 / MS Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Windows Security
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
    I have a Blueray Disk drive!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 22H2
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    Self Built
    CPU
    i7-9700K
    Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z390-A
    Memory
    Corsair Vengence 32GB
    Graphics card(s)
    EVGA GTX1060
    Sound Card
    On Board
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Acer 27"
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    WD Black Nvme 500GB
    Toshiba X300 5TB
    PSU
    Corsair RM850x
    Case
    Antec P101 Silent
    Cooling
    CoolerMaster Hyper T4
    Mouse
    Logitec M-U0007
    Keyboard
    MS KC0405
    Internet Speed
    940 Mbps
    Browser
    Firefox
    Antivirus
    Avast!
    Other Info
    I have a Case Speaker!
  • Like
Reactions: OAT
He has already tried replacing the SSD. It didn't help.

Yeah, I kinda figured it wasn't the SSD. That doesn't mean it isn't a hardware issue tho.

We need to eliminate the possibility of it being a hardware issue.

Have you tried my "Feed the Trees" run full bore option yet?

I highly recommend changing your settings for this and running your system on extreme settings if you can.

Also go into the UEFI (formerly known as BIOS) and check those temps. Check any sleep settings you may have in the BIOS
and check any settings associated with APM or a UPS (universal power supply).

Also check all your physical connections to your PSU, your system board, and your drives. Incidentally, power surges and brown outs can generate behaviour like this in PCs. Just a thought. Once you have this issue fixed you may want to consider getting a UPS if you don't have one already. :)
 

My Computer

System One

  • OS
    WIN 11, WIN 10, WIN 8.1, WIN 7 U, WIN 7 PRO, WIN 7 HOME (32 Bit), LINUX MINT
    Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Manufacturer/Model
    DIY, ASUS, and DELL
    CPU
    Intel i7 6900K (octocore) / AMD 3800X (8 core)
    Motherboard
    ASUS X99E-WS USB 3.1
    Memory
    128 GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM (B DIE)
    Graphics Card(s)
    NVIDIA 1070
    Sound Card
    Crystal Sound (onboard)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    single Samsung 30" 4K and 8" aux monitor
    Screen Resolution
    4K and something equally attrocious
    Hard Drives
    A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W

    Ports X, Y, and Z are reserved for USB access and removable drives.

    Drive types consist of the following: Various mechanical hard drives bearing the brand names, Seagate, Toshiba, and Western Digital. Various NVMe drives bearing the brand names Kingston, Intel, Silicon Power, Crucial, Western Digital, and Team Group. Various SATA SSDs bearing various different brand names.

    RAID arrays included:

    LSI RAID 10 (WD Velociraptors) 1115.72 GB
    LSI RAID 10 (WD SSDS) 463.80 GB

    INTEL RAID 0 (KINGSTON HYPER X) System 447.14 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 TOSHIBA ENTERPRIZE class Data 2794.52 GB
    INTEL RAID 1 SEAGATE HYBRID 931.51 GB
    PSU
    SEVERAL. I prefer my Corsair Platinum HX1000i but I also like EVGA power supplies
    Case
    ThermalTake Level 10 GT (among others)
    Cooling
    Noctua is my favorite and I use it in my main. I also own various other coolers. Not a fan of liquid cooling.
    Keyboard
    all kinds.
    Mouse
    all kinds
    Internet Speed
    360 mbps - 1 gbps (depending)
    Browser
    FIREFOX
    Antivirus
    KASPERSKY (no apologies)
    Other Info
    I own too many laptops: A Dell touch screen with Windows 11 and 6 others (not counting the other four laptops I bought for this household.) Being a PC builder I own many desktop PCs as well. I am a father of five providing PCs, laptops, and tablets for all my family, most of which I have modified, rebuilt, or simply built from scratch. I do not own a cell phone, never have, never will.

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